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Old 02-13-2007, 02:39 PM   #21
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I guess I am going to have to rip out the bathroom fixtures and replace the subfloor back to the second crossmember. Luckily I have a restorer that I have been working with that can fabricate a new crossmember and weld. Just more $$$...it seems like it is never ending but I am getting close...there is light ahead at the end of the tunnell...just can't see it yet.
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Old 02-13-2007, 03:37 PM   #22
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I'm surprised you hadn't already found this. (fwiw, mine had the same damage in the same area...). I just assumed that since you'd gutted the rest of it, you'd have gutted the bathroom, too. Those old, yellowed plastic fixtures just won't "go" with those nice new cabinets, anyway. good opportunity to re-finish them!

while you're in there...are you going to install a grey tank? "now" would be a good time...

(ka-ching, ka-ching!)
pardon me, while I spend more of your money....
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Old 02-13-2007, 06:57 PM   #23
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Kevin,

Bummer! I feel your pain! (But I've seen worse.) Take it apart and fix it right (as I know you will). You'll only do it once. (And go ahead and refinish the bathroom fixtures while you're at it!)
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Old 02-13-2007, 07:20 PM   #24
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It is only about 10 inches along the entire back side that is rotten as well as the rear crossmember. I cleaned up until the next crossmember which looks to be in good condition.

I am wondering if I could cut around 12 inches of the subfloor out of the rear, install a nother crossmember to join the new plywood to that would be located 12 inches from the rear crossmember
, and then replace the rear crossmember to join the back end of the plywood. Not sure if this is feasable but it looks as it would be easier than to remove the entire section of plywood. Past the 10 Inch Rotted section the wood looks brand new.
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Old 02-13-2007, 08:38 PM   #25
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Others have done it that way. If you're slick, you can cut it at a 45 deg angle and have a nice lap joint. (I've found that a 3-3/8" carbide tipped saw blade mounted to an angle grinder, while dangerous, is quite useful in making cuts in tight spots. You need to be really careful, though.)
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Old 02-13-2007, 09:29 PM   #26
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I was able to build a nice sturdy rear cross member to replace my rusted out one using 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle iron. One strip at the top and one at the bottom. I also added a couple of flat straps from top to bottom in the middle to help stiffen things up. I can post a photo if it does not make sense.

Malcolm
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:13 PM   #27
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I actually have a guy who is going to get a cross member from a trucking company and he is going to do the welding for me. I like your idea though Malcolm... I am probably going to add an extra crossmember between the rear and the next one up as well.
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:59 PM   #28
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Bathroom Tear Down

Well after about a couple of trips to Home Depot, and cut up hands, within 2 hours today I got the countertop/sink removed and the bench seat that connects to the shower pan. I had some trouble with 4 or 5 rivets that the head wouldn't drill out so I had to tinker with those a bit. Tomorrow I plan on tackeling the remainder of the cabinetry and toilet. Now that I see what is back there I am glad I am doing it!
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:58 PM   #29
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Kevin,

They make some knit gloves dipped in rubber for about $5 that are amazingly easy to work in that will save your fingers. They actually grip nuts and bolts easier than bare hands. You might want to invest in a pair. (Prevent splinters as well.)

Be sure to use a 1/4" luan template as a pattern for your new floor piece before cutting the real thing. It will save you time and money!
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:42 PM   #30
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The gloves are a good idea. I bleed easy and often don't know I've cut myself until I see blood on something and then it's too late. So wearing gloves for this type of work has made a huge difference. No slivers, no slices, the band aid companies are really feeling the pinch. You sure have come a long way in a short period of time. Amazing, and it is looking very good. I'm anxious to see the finished product.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:43 PM   #31
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What really works for rivets that will not drill out is to use a reasonably sharp putty knife type of paint scraper or a wood chisel to chip off the head. I have done it successfully for pretty much all of the types of rivets on my AS. It works especially well for the inside ones which are smaller than the exterior ones.

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Old 02-16-2007, 11:28 AM   #32
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The plumbing arrangement looks a bit different than mine; looks like it might have been modified. They took out your pressure regulator. can't see any drain valves back their, either, but that might be because of the camera angle.

the pressure regulator originally went in between that check valve, and the "pop-off" valve; might want to consider adding one back in, since you're going to have to tear all that out anyway to replace the floor. Some campgrounds have really high water pressure, which could damage the plumbing system.
That check valve also has a limited lifespan; might want to test it before putting it back in. Mine was leaking back ever so slightly...just enough to make the water pump cycle on and off every few seconds, and produce a steady drip from the city water inlet, when using on-board water. I bought a replacement for it, but found there to be no way to actually access the existing one without tearing out the bathroom as you have. takes 2 hands and 2 wrenches. can't be done...at least, not by me. for now, I just attached it to the city inlet on the outside, as a temporary measure until I can get around to what you're doing right now. When I do, I'm going to re-arrange the pipes in there so that they are all reacheable from under the vanity, so that a major excavation won't be required in case of future failures. (which you KNOW, there will be).
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Old 02-16-2007, 01:28 PM   #33
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Chuck,

I almost have it all out now and I will take some more pictures to post...I am an amatuer at plumbing so I have no clue....

Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:11 PM   #34
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Tear Out

Got most everything out today. Much easier today. Now if I can only remember how to put it back together. I took pictures so I hope that helps. Here is what it ended up looking like:
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:14 PM   #35
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Label

Could this be the Original Owner?
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:19 PM   #36
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Replace?

Should I replace the dump valve and assembly while I am at it? If so where could I pick one of these up? If not then good deal.
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:34 PM   #37
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Just for kicks and giggles, and for the sake of history, I checked that name--- Frank D. Garrison, on that Holding Tank label of yours....

I checked the name in both a 1973 and a 1976 WBCCI Directory, and this name did not show up either year.... hmmm... maybe he was the original owner, but my money says he was not a WBCCI member...... any "ghost number" impressions up top???

Scott
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When it is my time, I want to go peacefully,
And in my sleep.....Just like my Grandfather....
Not screaming, kicking and in a state of panic,
like the other passengers in his car were......
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:39 PM   #38
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No Ghost Numbers are present...I thought it was interesting to find the label on the holding tank...Wonder if old Frank is still an Airstreamer?
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:12 PM   #39
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Hmmm....Good Question.....

I would hafta assume, since we are talking about nearly ancient history, 34 years ago, that Frank was probably at least a middle aged guy at that time, maybe even freshly retired.... and if THAT is the case, ol' Frank is probably long since passed away...... Gee, I have recently thought about a similar subject, being that I traveled extensively with my Grandparents in their Airstream for several years when I was young.... I remember many many acquaintances in the WBCCI Michigan Unit....and sadly, when i remember that some of those acquaintances go back to the late 1960s---- I realize that nearly every single one of those great folks have passed on...... Hmmm.... sad.

Wondering out loud here on a similar tack... I am curious as to a possible percentage of Airstream Owners that were not WBCCI members.

Like with your 23' Safari, my own 69 23' Safari has never once had WBCCI numbers on it. That is too strange.... I was thinking that the percentage of ownership and WBCCI members vs. non members would be like 80% or better..... maybe not that high...hmmm....

Gee, I can tell it's winter...I must really be bored to have this kind of time on my hands!! hahaha!!

Scott
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Grosse Ile, Mich.
1969 23' Safari Twin
WBCCI # 22426
(formerly #22425 1968-76)



When it is my time, I want to go peacefully,
And in my sleep.....Just like my Grandfather....
Not screaming, kicking and in a state of panic,
like the other passengers in his car were......
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:11 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kneal
Could this be the Original Owner?
I'd look on the internet telephone directories and see if you can find a match. You just never know, and you might really make someone's day, as well as yours.

It's worth a shot if you have a bit of spare time but I'd say right now you are pretty busy with your project, unless you need a mental health break.

If you do decide to pursue him let us know how it goes.

Barry
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