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Old 03-30-2013, 11:02 PM   #21
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1970 23' Safari
2005 30' Classic
1986 31' Sovereign
Lorain , Ohio
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Greetings!

If your ever near Lorain (up near Cleveland), your welcome to stop over and check out my 1970 Safari. Mine is far from perfect, but it might help with some of your questions.

Additionally, we have a great group of knowledgeable owners up here willing to help!

Many of us will be attending a rally next weekend in Wooster (Amish Rally). Perhaps you would love to take a drive?!

The wires you speak of on your black tank are connected to sensors that display the level of fulness on your control panel above your front gacho. They seldom work reliably!

-DanB
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:11 AM   #22
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1970 23' Safari
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Thanks for the info guys! So what exactly controls the opening and closing of the gate valve? Mine is open right now...
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:12 AM   #23
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There should be a black handle near the valve that you manually slide in and out to open/close the valve.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:08 PM   #24
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1970 23' Safari
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Hi,


The previous posts explain my trailer more or less correctly. There is no grey water tank and we use a portable tank for campgrounds without a full hookup. The amount of grey water you can make is quite remarkable! If you forget to take the cap off the drain then the grey water will back up into the shower!

The black water tank is controlled by a valve that you open by pulling a stem just above the drain. For me its located steetside just above the rear bumper. Pull out to open and push to close.

I've got the trailer at home now. I'll try to post some pics!

Mike
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:16 PM   #25
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Hi Again,


Here are some pictures including one that shows the location of the black water dump valve near the back bumper.

Enjoy!

Mike
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:42 PM   #26
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1970 23' Safari
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Thanks for all the great info. Everything is slowly coming along and my next task is to hook up gas and check the water heater. Im not sure if i even want or need to use the furnace. Do you have any advice on the water heater operation?
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:41 PM   #27
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After 40 years, my water heater was corroded on the bottom. Watch for small leaks. A new one is relatively easy to install.


Mike
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:13 PM   #28
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I am a 69 owner. Been down many of the roads you are beginning to travel. There was a furnace recall. I cannot remember the exact thread but its on here. You should definitely check. There are some fixes that have worked also. Many just use an oil free standing furnace to remove the chill or add a heat pump AC. Let me know if you have any questions as I too own a single axle. Enjoy!
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:30 PM   #29
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I would fill and pressurize the water heater to test its integrity prior to putting a fire under it.

Use caution when you fire up that furnace for the first time. Do a good visual inspection for broken or rusted parts. Remove all those bee's nest first!
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:34 PM   #30
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The furnace recall is the Suburban NT series recall. Google it for info. There is a crossover tube that can crack and leak. I repaired mine, but still use a CO detector just in case. So far no issues, but when I'm plugged in I use a small electric ceramic heater anyways.

Mike
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:33 AM   #31
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1970 23' Safari
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I also plan on using a small space heater. I really see no need to mess with the furnace yet, my priority is to see if the water heater works.
DanB- Thanks for the advice, I will do that for sure.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:39 AM   #32
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1970 23' Safari
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Mike- so you did install a new water heater? I was looking at the gas/110vac water heaters. I think it would be nice to be able to use gas or electric, especially since I plan on being on the grid most the time.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:38 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownd355 View Post
Mike- so you did install a new water heater? I was looking at the gas/110vac water heaters. I think it would be nice to be able to use gas or electric, especially since I plan on being on the grid most the time.
I installed one of those in mine. It is definitely nice to have the option of using electric or gas. I also got the option for electric start, which meant being able to turn on the heater from a switch inside the trailer, rather than going outside to light the pilot light.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:21 PM   #34
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Yes I did put in a new one, but I opted for the basic gas only with a pilot light. It was a fairly easy install because it was a straight up replacement for the original.

Mike
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:24 PM   #35
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Here is a link to the furnace recall that I found useful:


http://www.knology.net/~tcwilliams/Furnace.htm

Mike
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:22 AM   #36
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1970 23' Safari
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Ok, on my AS I have a 7PIN plug in the front and I think I should probably switch that out with a 7 BLADE plug connection or should I keep it in there?

I know mosy vehicles now have 7 blade coming out so is there an adapter to go from the connector from the truck to the camper or should I just put in a new receptacle on the trailer?
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:35 AM   #37
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1970 Safari 23'

Greetings brownd355!

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownd355 View Post
Ok, on my AS I have a 7PIN plug in the front and I think I should probably switch that out with a 7 BLADE plug connection or should I keep it in there?

I know mosy vehicles now have 7 blade coming out so is there an adapter to go from the connector from the truck to the camper or should I just put in a new receptacle on the trailer?
My suggestion would be to stay with the seven "round-pin" connector as it is much less prone to corrosion and the associated connection problems. I ran the blade connectors until 2008 when I made the switch back to the "round-pin" connectors. I learned from veteran Airstreamers that these connectors are inherently less subject to corrosion and are made of much heavier materials . . . in fact, their primary use today is for over-the-road trucks, and many of the most recent versions are advertised to be "self-cleaning" meaning that each time the connection is made the connection is cleaned.

Prior to switching back to the "round-pin" connectors, I was having to manually clean the terminals at the beginning of each season on my blade-type connectors, and the connectors had to be replaced every-other season.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

P.S.: I carry a commercially available adapter to switch from my "pin-type" connector to the blade-type connector to be prepared in the event that my trailer needs to be towed by a vehicle with the blade-type connector.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:53 AM   #38
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Overlander... Do you think my 7pin will still be good if its the orig. from '70? Im guessing that wiring all matches up fine when using the adapter so could you tell me what adapter you got and what else I need because I have nothing so far. I will need the adapter and the cable with a connecter on it. So does the adapter go on the vehicle or trailer side? I just need a basic run down and would like to know what parts you use on yours. Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:45 PM   #39
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Greetings brownd355!

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownd355 View Post
Overlander... Do you think my 7pin will still be good if its the orig. from '70?
It wouldn't surprise me in the least if the OEM 1970 connector is still in good condition. I would suspect that inserting and removing it from the tow vehicle receptacle several times would clean away any corrossion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownd355 View Post
Im guessing that wiring all matches up fine when using the adapter so could you tell me what adapter you got and what else I need because I have nothing so far.
I wouldn't count on the wiring immediately matching up as the wiring standard for trailer connectors whether pin-type or blade-type hadn't yet been adopted as a uniforum industry standard. There is a current industry standard for wiring both pin-type and blade-type connectors, and the diagram is included when purchasing a new connector. Your 1970 Airstream will most likely have a unique wiring schematic for its connector. I am attaching a pdf that contains the wiring patter untilized in 1970 and you will likely find that the pin-out doesn't match the current industry standard for pin-type connectors nor do the color/function relationships for the wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownd355 View Post
I will need the adapter and the cable with a connecter on it. So does the adapter go on the vehicle or trailer side? I just need a basic run down and would like to know what parts you use on yours. Thanks!
I purchased my adapter from my local NAPA Auto Parts store, but when I checked their on-line catalog . . . it wasn't listed . . . I don't think that it was listed on-line when I purchased mine, but my local store knew exactly what I wanted and the counterperson directed me immediately to its location. I found an adapter very similar to the one that I purchased listed on E-trailer . . . you can find it at this link.

Good luck with your trailer!

Kevin
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:57 PM   #40
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1970 23' Safari
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Kevin thanks for the info. I ordered an adapter yesterday but i think i did mine in reverse to what you did. I got an adapter with 7pin female that plugs in to my camper and goes 7 blade from there to the vehicle. Do you think that will be ok or does it matter? Thanks
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