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Old 01-24-2021, 08:21 PM   #21
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1969 23' Safari
Troutdale , Oregon
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Posts: 25
Making some progress. Needed some new tips for the plasma cutter so had to stop for the day. Doc switched me to a thermoplastic brace last Thursday which has increased efficiency. PapaPepper and I were able to get most of he stringers cut and attached. Next the outriggers.

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Old 01-27-2021, 06:59 PM   #22
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Looks like you've made some real big progress. Suppose the old body is going to fit on the new frame? It is always a nerve wracking day doing the "marriage" of body to subfloor and frame. I bet you will do very well.

David
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Old 01-29-2021, 11:42 AM   #23
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1969 23' Safari
Troutdale , Oregon
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Now at the point of finalizing tanks. Going to do a gray water system only and compostable toilet. I purchased (2) 21 gallon tanks that will fit between the crossmembers from VTS. I originally was advised to put the tanks over the axle for good weight distribution. Although I really like this idea, this obviously creates a problem running vent for my furnace. In the original trailer the black water tank was in the back and now I am at least entertaining the about doing a similar thing to avoid having to solve the furnace solution. The original tank appears to be roughly 19 gallons, which means I could be effectively doubling the weight in the rear of the trailer. I am planning on extending the A-frame by 1 foot to accommodate a generator box, which should offset the imbalance some and generally the frame seems much stronger than the original, but 23 gal is just shy of 200#. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Flexible ducting run through outriggers (or some other furnace solution that is still eclipsed to me). Or tanks in the rear for ease of install.


@dbj216 - Yes indeed! Iíve measured and re-measured and measured some more. Hoping like hell itís going to mate up nicely. Also figuring if I do end up off, Iíd rather be off short than off long. It feels like it would be easier to add metal then try to take away.
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:51 PM   #24
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Conifer , Colorado
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I put my new waste water tanks in my 75 Overlander in the rear of the trailer where the bathroom remained. I try hard not to tow with full waste water tanks. I do tow with a couple three gallons of water in the black tank for sloshing effect and a cleaner tank. I almost always find a dump station close to where I'm staying so I don't have to haul dirty water around.

Freshwater tank close to the axles makes sense as many of us head out with a fresh water filled up.

Measure, measure and measure again sounds good. I have read here where some folks have a heck of a time getting the body back on the frame and subfloor. There is a lot of variables and variation involved.

David
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Old 02-16-2021, 09:34 PM   #25
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Making some more progress. Hand is healed. Outriggers are fabricated and welded. A-frame is just about complete. Picking up axle tomorrow (was suppose to pick it up Friday, but got snowed in). Axle mounting plate is cut, but Iím waiting to get the axle before I drill the holes in the plate and weld it on.

Anyone have options for bumpers? Airforums seems largely bereft of people fabricating bumpers (or at least I cannot find em). Mine was gone when I bought it. Is it sacrilegious to put a square tube bumper on an airstream? Anyone manage to bend some c-channel for one? Any ideas at all would be appreciated. Itís basically my last step needed before the POR-15.
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Old 02-17-2021, 06:56 PM   #26
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Happy to hear your hand is healing up. Nasty injury.

Our 69 Globetrotter still has its welded on steel bumper. But it has been bumped several times.

My 75 Overlander has a chromed bumper that is smooth and looks better. It bolts to the top and bottom of the frame channels. I don't know what year Airstream changed to this design. Your trailer would look fine with one, and they may be available as a used part with high shipping costs.

I would think finding two 2" diameter or so round steel "pipes" and then bend a slight radius in them after the frame rails. Then design and fabricate a bracket for them, weld them to the brackets, and bolt the whole assembly to the frame rails. Then you could fabricate a bumper storage compartment for stinky slinky using the original bumper storage lid.

David
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Old 02-21-2021, 08:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Happy to hear your hand is healing up. Nasty injury.

Our 69 Globetrotter still has its welded on steel bumper. But it has been bumped several times.

My 75 Overlander has a chromed bumper that is smooth and looks better. It bolts to the top and bottom of the frame channels. I don't know what year Airstream changed to this design. Your trailer would look fine with one, and they may be available as a used part with high shipping costs.

I would think finding two 2" diameter or so round steel "pipes" and then bend a slight radius in them after the frame rails. Then design and fabricate a bracket for them, weld them to the brackets, and bolt the whole assembly to the frame rails. Then you could fabricate a bumper storage compartment for stinky slinky using the original bumper storage lid.

David

Thanks for the pics. I do like the look of that chrome bumper better. Been looking around, but havenít found anything, but the aluminum ones that seem to come directly from Airstream. I may just end up pulling the trigger on one of these to save some headache and time.
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Old 02-21-2021, 10:29 AM   #28
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I sold the original steel bumper and went with an airstream aluminum model to save weight. Cleaner look.

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Old 02-28-2021, 09:46 AM   #29
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Those pictures of the chrome and aluminum bumpers do look really clean. Thanks for the pics. I decided to go with an aluminum one from airstream. Bolts holes distances match perfectly so hopefully it will be an easy install.

Just about finished welding the frame and time to get the floor on. Man that took longer than I thought! All the little stuff at the end has been tedious, but ultimately rewarding. Gonna paint and epoxy edges of plywood today, finish propane tank holder, cut a couple of bolt access holes on the solid outriggers by the wheel wells and then the POR-15.
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:57 PM   #30
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1969 23' Safari
Troutdale , Oregon
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1969 Safari Renovation

Had some new wheel wells fabricated by a local HVAC shop for surprisingly low cost. See attached pic. Same day turnaround and were about half the cost of the plastic ones Iíve seen for sale online.

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Also some pics of the completed trailer prior to painting.

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Old 03-03-2021, 10:03 PM   #31
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1969 23' Safari
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Painting day!

Had some great weather here in the Pacific Northwest today and the wife and I got the flooring and most of the trailer painted. Tomorrow time for a flip of the frame to finish the last of the POR-15.


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Old 03-03-2021, 10:19 PM   #32
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1961 19' Globetrotter
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Very nice wheel wells!
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Old 03-04-2021, 04:10 PM   #33
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Anyone know if the front radius of the subfloor and the rear radius are the same?

The PO repaired the front of the subfloor by piecing it together so I donít have a template to cut the new flooring from (a good portion of the front flooring and as not under the c-channel at all. The rear is actually fairly intact despite some rot and I was thinking about using it to make the pattern for the front.
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Old 03-04-2021, 05:17 PM   #34
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The front and back will likely not be the same, the left and the right may not be the same and it may not be the same after, as it was before you took it off.
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Old 03-04-2021, 05:35 PM   #35
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The front and back will likely not be the same, the left and the right may not be the same and it may not be the same after, as it was before you took it off.

I really shouldíve known that. Guess I was just blinded by hope.
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Old 03-04-2021, 05:52 PM   #36
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You've got a vintage Airstream you've definitely been blinded by aluminum and your hope and enthusiasm will keep you going.
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Old 03-04-2021, 07:55 PM   #37
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I wonder if you can somehow use the body (shell?) of the trailer you have hanging around somewhere. If the c channel is still attached to the body, I should think the outside edge would be a pretty accurate template. The c channel should provide enough rigidity to the aluminum exterior skins to give a pretty good template. You might have installed some bracing in the body before you lifted it off.

Attaching the old body to a new frame and subfloor is a challenge. Be prepared to make some adjustments.

David
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Old 03-04-2021, 08:42 PM   #38
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1969 23' Safari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I wonder if you can somehow use the body (shell?) of the trailer you have hanging around somewhere. If the c channel is still attached to the body, I should think the outside edge would be a pretty accurate template. The c channel should provide enough rigidity to the aluminum exterior skins to give a pretty good template. You might have installed some bracing in the body before you lifted it off.

Attaching the old body to a new frame and subfloor is a challenge. Be prepared to make some adjustments.

David

I did put in bracing in the shell and the c-channel is still there. Iíll try to make the template around the exterior skins. Thanks.

Andrew
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