Winterizing while on the road....

[Arcticfox]

Greetings all:

I'm wondering how folks deal with Winterization while on the road?

When we leave for the south we're already winterized so everything should be good as we're heading to warmth.... Coming home can be a different issue as we're now heading north and we now have to re-winterize....

Because we're on the road, carrying a large compressor is not practical as it just takes up to much space. So how do folks deal with this issue? Is there small enough compressors out there that will blow the lines properly? Is there other options?

I'm assuming one can pump antifreeze into the system and hope that it pushes all the water out, but there is no assurance that this will happen. Also the winterization system that I've seen has you inserting the antifreeze just before the water pump. So the hose from the tank to the pump and from the city water fill will not get any antifreeze at all as these hoses are on the other side of the winterization valve.

With the above in mind, it will be interesting to get peoples thoughts on this as I'm sure many have seen this situation over the years.

Thanks in advance for your input

Doug

[CRH]

I would use an adapter hose on the electric pump and push plenty of antifreeze through. Camco makes a handpump that you can use on the city water hookup.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Arcticfox

Because we're on the road, carrying a large compressor is not practical as it just takes up to much space. So how do folks deal with this issue? Is there small enough compressors out there that will blow the lines properly? Is there other options?

Even a small tankless 12v air compressor that plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet can be used, but it requires a slightly different technique. You do carry one of those, I trust, in case of low tire pressure while en route?

After opening all valves and faucets to gravity-drain the lines, you have to close everything again. Then you hook up the compressor to a flush fitting that screws into the municipal water intake, and air up the plumbing system just like it was a tire. Applying 45-to-60 psi is about right; you don't want to rupture a line from excess air pressure. When you open one faucet, water should spray out until the air pressure is gone, or until the water leading to that faucet is gone, whichever comes first. Then repeat for the next faucet, and so on, making sure not to forget the external shower hookup and the toilet valve.

[Jim Flower]

Hi Doug. I winterize twice a year due to trips south and do it the same way regardless of either being at the storage yard or on the road. Neither involves the use of air. I have had a leak in the valve at the toilet once but it was because I forgot to run antifreeze through while flushing. I shut off the water at the toilet and got a new valve at an rv parts store. No other damage.
The process starts with pumping all water into the holding tanks so less is better.
I have a winterizing kit (tee fitting with valve) installed before the pump and I use two gals of antifreeze, ensuring a flow of pink from both hot and cold at all faucets, including out side shower. I by-pass the hwh and open the hwh drain. I open the low point drains, drain and then close before adding the antifreeze. This stuff drains onto the road. After the system is full of antifreeze, I reset the hwh by pass to use. All this takes 10 minutes.
Dumping takes place before getting to the storage yard and when on the road, normally at a Flying J while doing the antifreeze addition.
All of this is the long way of saying that water on the supply side of the pump and city supply inlet seems to disappear into the water tank and since it is such a small amount, causes no issues.
Bottom line, it's one of the smaller concerns when boomeranging. ( not sure if that's a word) Jim


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[Arcticfox]

Thanks Protagonist - I never considered using the airlines in the trailer like an air tank. Yes that should work just fine. I guess the only issue is over pressurization, one would need to have some type of inline gauge to ensure the poundage your putting into the system.
Great idea and thanks for your input.

Cheers
Doug

[Arcticfox]

Greetings Jim:

Hope all is well back east.

Yes I have the same winterization kit as you installed so that makes things easier.

Do I understand you correctly that you pump the Antifreeze (before) you by-pass the HWT? I'm also noting that you reset your HWT to "use" after you have filled the system with Antifreeze?

Am I confused here as I just assumed you would put your HWT into Bypass and then fill your system with antifreeze. That way your not filling your HWT tank with the pink stuff.

Next I'm wondering if turning your HWT back to "use" after you have filled the system will only see the antifreeze draining into the HWT?

If you don't mind, can I get you to articulate the steps again so I make sure I understand your order of events.

Thanks

Doug

[Piggy Bank]

Here is what we did to winterize.

We did this at a campground. Really took no more than an extra 10 minutes or so from our standard draining off of all water.

What we did was to first empty out all water from freshwater holding tank, and dump gray and black tanks at campground dump station.

When doing this be sure to get the water heater empty and open all low point drains.

Then set the water lines to bypass the water heater.

Then we got a funnel with a plastic tube at the bottom from the auto supply aisle at walmart for a few dollars. Added 2 gallons of pink antifreeze to the fresh water holding tank.

Turned on water pump, pumped the pink liquid and ran from all sink taps (hot and cold), shower lines (hot and cold) and outdoor shower (hot and cold). Disconnected shower head inside and outside.

Poured extra antifreeze down the toilet. (running the hot/cold already had flushed some to the gray tank).

Just thought reading several people's explanation might be helpful.

[Jim Flower]

Originally Posted by Arcticfox

Greetings Jim:

Hope all is well back east.

Yes I have the same winterization kit as you installed so that makes things easier.

Do I understand you correctly that you pump the Antifreeze (before) you by-pass the HWT? I'm also noting that you reset your HWT to "use" after you have filled the system with Antifreeze?

Am I confused here as I just assumed you would put your HWT into Bypass and then fill your system with antifreeze. That way your not filling your HWT tank with the pink stuff.

Next I'm wondering if turning your HWT back to "use" after you have filled the system will only see the antifreeze draining into the HWT?

If you don't mind, can I get you to articulate the steps again so I make sure I understand your order of events.

Thanks

Doug

My articulation, body and mind, seems to go down hill as the clock ticks. I by- pass the hwh before pumping the antifreeze but reset the valves afterwords so that when refilling with fresh water, I don't have to muck around with them again. You are correct. I do not fill the hwh with antifreeze. Also, the hwh does not seem to get antifreeze in it due to the now open valves since the system is not under pressure. I have not noticed if there is any residue antifreeze in the hwh that comes in when the system is re-pressurized with fresh water. My guess is that there is a wee bit but just not noticeable. Seems to mix nicely with the water that I get from various campgrounds. Not brave enough to test it. Jim


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[Arcticfox]

Thanks for the update Jim. That makes more sense now....

Cheers
Doug

[pmclemore]

I winterize using the pink stuff. One issue I found when we were ready to return was that I could not find rv antifreeze! I guess that is the whole point of living in Florida, right?

So when we head south this year, I am going to carry my regular two gallons with me for use on the return trip.

Pat

[paiceman]

We use a small compressor, 110v that bought at Home Depot, $50.00. Hook it into the truck or trailer if camped. I blow out the lines as I do at home and then pump in the RV anti-freeze which I carry with us. I don't bother with the tanks unless we are heading home in March then I dump half a gallon in black and half in grey. I also by pass Hot Water Heater but before I do I leave the valves open and the external valve on the WH so that blows out as well. Stand back lots of water sprays out. When I blow the lines my compressor has a gauge on it, I don't go above 55 pounds and I make sure one facet is open before I turn the compressor on. Then I open and close valves. Then close the HW outside valve use the by pass valve inside the trailer and blow the lines again opening and closing facets all of them one at a time and don't forget the outside shower facet.

Enjoy

Bud

[mefly2]

Doug ... our procedure for on the road (we are often out around Valentine's Day and after Thanksgiving) or at home here in MT.
Drain via external valves (a valve install instead of the plug on the HWT is quite helpful) with all faucets (including inside and outside shower)open; ours has three...gravity is your friend. Engage the HWT by pass valve.
Close all faucets / valves and "pressurize" the plumbing...no need for high volume air compressor as you would use for home underground sprinkling ... just a small compressor that will deliver 50-65 psi.
Repeatedly open and close the individual faucets (and commode) for both hot and cold until only a hiss comes out.
Then attach your hose to the three-way valve which allows anti-freeze (red stuff - we get the best value at Wally World) to enter the inlet side of the water pump and energize to push it out into the AS plumbing.
Open individual valves until you see the red anti freeze exiting ... allow for a bit to flow from the commode into the holding tank. Also dump some RV red into each of the drains - not forgetting the shower.
When you are ready to de-winterize, you may flush out the little amount of red RV anti-freeze and be good to go.

[m.hony]

I have the winterizing t-fitting and valve at the pump. Takes 2 jugs of antifreeze. Just dangle the piece of short tubing into the antifreeze jug, turn on the pump, and then start opening all valves one by one until pink runs out, including outdoor shower and low point drains.
This is, of course after draining and bypassing the water heater.

[Jim Flower]

Originally Posted by m.hony

I have the winterizing t-fitting and valve at the pump. Takes 2 jugs of antifreeze. Just dangle the piece of short tubing into the antifreeze jug, turn on the pump, and then start opening all valves one by one until pink runs out, including outdoor shower and low point drains.
This is, of course after draining and bypassing the water heater.

I think you should win a prize for the shortest and best description of the winterizing procedure. Good one. Jim


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[m.hony]

Really doesn't take long.
Some years I winterize twice because we use the trailer again after winterizing.
Sometimes I spend the weekend in the trailer while it is winterized.
Don't bother with city warren connection.
Brush teeth, shower, and use the restroom at the campground bath house.


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[Wingeezer]

Also done it with plumbing antifreeze on the way home to Canada many times.

Never bothered with air when winterising on the road, just antifreeze, and not had any problems at all.

When I am doing it at home,I generally blow out the lines first and then pump in the antifreeze, Not really sure why I bother blowing the lines first, I suppose maybe it reduces the chance of the antifreeze getting diluted. But I suspect the antifreeze alone just pushes the water out ahead of itself anyway with minimum diluton, s o I'm likely just wasting my time blowing the lines as well.

I have heard it said though that if you just blow the lines and don't follow up with antifreeze, there could be a risk of residual water pooling in the lines and still causing freezing damage.

No personal experience with that, but I would guess the smaller compressor you use, the more likely it could be is to happen.

Brian.

[PKI]

When you connect the air compressor to the city water connection, if you connect a length of water hose between the water fitting and the compressor, you get a much bigger volume of air to flush out the plumbing. Not needed if the compressor is large, but for the small ones it helps. Pat

[Len n Jeanne]

Some of us would actually just go to an RV service center (most any one will do) and pay them to do the winterizing for us. Works like a charm.

[m.hony]

Winterizing is a very easy DIY task.
There is no dealer within 100 miles of me.
The nearest RV service is 30+ miles away.
I can winterize for two $4 jugs of antifreeze from Walmart or hardware store- $8.
How much does an RV dealer charge? $50? $100? $150? Plus gas? 2 trips? One to drop the trailer off? Another to pick the trailer up?
I can winterize for a lot less time and money than that. The trailer never has to move. I just walk outside and do within 20-30 minutes. I usually wait till spring to buy the RV antifreeze on clearance at Walmart- less than $4 a jug-

[switz]

Don't forget to get some pink stuff filling the exposed black "drain pipes" to protect the exposed valves.

It has been suggested that trailers with the exposed valves like on our 23D wrap the black pipes and valves with a heat tape and insulation when out and about in really cold weather.