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andyfuson · 06-01-2004, 03:07 PM

I have found out through other forums that the jacks under my trailer are not designed to level the rig. I have been told to use boards or other store bought gadgets to drive onto for the side to side leveling, and then to use the front jack for the front to back leveling. Maybe some more info would help. For example, if I buy blocks, what are the best?, Do I have to have two sets, one for each tire or are the block systems long enought to go under both? What about the thickness of the blocks. Do you find that they keep you from getting perfectly level because of there thickness or is this not an issue? Finally, why didn't Airstream make the trailer jacks work for leveling? I thought they were perfect, untill I realized that my door had to be slammed to get it to close.

Still Learning!

j54mark · 06-01-2004, 03:21 PM

I know of no travel trailer which can be leveled by its stabilizer jacks.

I would hope that your owner's manual covers this issue. If not, that is a major oversight on Airstream's part.

There has been some discussion about preferred types of leveling blocks on these forums. A search of the archives should turn up something. A choice of blocks can be found on the RV supply websites such as Camping World.

Personally, I like 2x8 lumber. I have four about three feet long, and two about two feet long. I like the 8" width because it supports the entire tread of the tire. Some might argue that I also need a 1X8 for more precision, but I find that the two by stuff gets me close enough for side to side leveling.

You may also be surprised (I know I was!) to learn you need a couple of blocks for sites that are so out of plumb that one or more of your stabilizer jacks will not reach the ground. I carry a couple of one foot lengths of 4X4's for this.

Mark

crazylev · 06-01-2004, 03:21 PM

Andy.

Don't use the stabilizers to level! And only use them after your rig is level!

I can answer this one. You want to level side to side first. Level the LOW side of the rig. I bought these handy but hideous Linx-Levelors at Walmart for under thrity bucks. A few pieces of 1" and 2" x 8" boards would work as well.

Once you level side to side, do the front and back. Now put the stabilzer jacks down, but just snug to the ground.

If you are camping a few days and it has rained, make sure the ground has not washed away under the jacks, check to see if they are snug.

Jonathan

andyfuson · 06-01-2004, 03:30 PM

I'm going to go back and look in my trailer info to see if it is in the manual. It may be. I was so excited when I got the trailer and saw it had built in jacks that I never thought any further about it, until the door kept causing me trouble. I hope I have not caused any permanent warping. I will not use them to level ever again. I promise. I feel like I have broken a golden camping rule.

These forums are always so helpful.

Thanks!

Sue Yeutter · 06-01-2004, 03:43 PM

I have 1, 1/2 and 2 inch wooden blocks for leveling. My husband (he died last year) made them to fit between the tires and then the trailer is pulled or backed up onto the wood.He used pressure treated wood and I keep them in the back of the pick up. THEN the leveling jacks are put down. Only motor homes have jacks that are able to level the rig. If the door is a problem you probably have the leveling jacks too far down.

Sue

Silvertwinkie · 06-01-2004, 03:50 PM

I'm with Mark on this one. I use 2x8s too. I also pack a few 2x4s and a few 2x6s. I cut them in fours so that I can place one behind or in front of the outside tire and one in between and then either pull up or back up.

I suppose the 3' sections would also work, but for me I like being able to store the boards in a tub in the outdoor storage.

The orange blocks work well too, but I have heard of too many breaking and decided to bring a few boards since the weight was very close to that of the bag of plastic ones---and a HECK of a lot less expensive.

87MH · 06-01-2004, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sue Yeutter

I have 1, 1/2 and 2 inch wooden blocks for leveling. Sue

Sue, I hope we hear more from you in the near future so we can all take advantage of your years of expertise!

What an experience, taking the trailer out by yourself!

Welcome!

Edie · 06-01-2004, 04:28 PM

Welcome to the forum, I'm glad you joined.

I have a couple of ways to level. Of course the best is to stay in a campground with level sites.

We use the no-name brand similar to Lynx Levelers. The great thing about the bright plastic ones is that you never forget and leave them behind - they are always visible.

We used to use wood, but had problems with ants and other bugs when parking in damp locations. They seemed more adjustable to me than the plastic ones.

A friend of ours uses a long sturdy board and a short section of 4x4. He makes a ramp by placing the board on the 4x4, and then drives up the ramp (or ramps) until the coach is level. I like this method best, but since we don't have a truck bed to throw the leveling blocks in we don't use it.

**jcanavera** · 06-01-2004, 05:42 PM

I've been using the Lynx Leveler blocks for about 7 years now. I've never had one break yet. You can find them at many Wal-Mart stores with the RV supplies in the automotive section.

Jack

DPeakMD · 06-01-2004, 06:45 PM

Another vote for the Lynx Levelers--we just returned from the Region 4 Rally where it had rained so much the grounds were like mud-fest. I plunked a Lynx Leveler down on the ground to get level and expected it would just get stuck completely down in the goo by the weight of the trailer. Much to my suprise it held it's own quite well, only dropping about 3/8" by the 3rd day when it was time to leave, in spite of more rain! They do sink into hot asphalt, though, don't ask me how I know that.... So a spare board can be a good idea to have along, too.

wingfoot321 · 06-01-2004, 10:33 PM

I have Lynx levelers but, also use pressure treated 2x8's cut to fit between the tires and to fit in the front storage box behind the tongue.

I try to never have a tire partially on or off a block. It puts a lot of strain on the belts in the tire to have the trailer sit partially on a block for days at a time.

Cracker · 06-02-2004, 07:20 AM

I'm using three full-length 2 x 8's, one 1 x 8, and four 12" square x 1/2" thick poly cutting boards, to level and support both tires at once. This gives me sufficient lift to accommodate a site that's almost 6 inches out of level - or enough lift to change a tire. I prefer the latter procedure to the use of a jack. In addition, I carry two short 4 x 4 chocks that will help the stabilizer jacks reach the ground if the site is that much out of level. The 2 x 8's interlock, when stacked, using four 3/4" diameter cored holes in each plank as a female connection, with matching galvanized lag bolts and sleeves (---they project about 1" and are about 5/8" diameter) from the plank above as a male connection. This keeps the tires from pushing the boards around when you're getting set up. My pickup truck has excess capacity, as well as space - so this works for me. It would be awkward without the truck as the base 2 x 8 is almost 5' in length. Like others, I've been forced to take some "last-minute" sites that were really awkward - however, the drainage was excellent!

bryanl · 06-02-2004, 09:51 AM

might want to skim through
http://sierranevadaairstreams.org/ow.../leveling.html
for some ideas and links on leveling your trailer properly.

06-02-2004, 10:01 AM

Leipper, thanks for the link. All around good information.
Jack

iowaroots · 06-02-2004, 01:38 PM

Great information. Now, does anyone have the formula of knowing how far off level you are initially, so when building the ramp height you only have to do it once? Eight foot string with a string level and a tape measure???? Who of you veterans might have the magic??

Newbie, Joe

dscluchfc · 06-02-2004, 01:49 PM

I use the WAG method myself.

thenewkid64 · 06-02-2004, 02:27 PM

When I towed a trailer I had a Tamarack Level on the front of the unit in the center. It was normally one lynx leveler to the mark on the tamarack. It also had a front to rear level so you could use it to adjust the front to rear level with the tongue.

j54mark · 06-02-2004, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iowaroots

does anyone have the formula of knowing how far off level you are initially, so when building the ramp height you only have to do it once?

The issue is side to side level. Front to back is acomplished with the tongue jack, and must wait until you unhitch. I back into place, and read the level - One board (2X8) for each mark on the level. I then pull forward enough to lay down the boards and back into place. If an adjustment is necessary, I need only pull straight forward, add or subtract a board, and back straight up again. It takes about as much time to do it as to tell about it.

Mark

upallnight · 06-02-2004, 02:59 PM

dscluchfc
Maybe you could let some of us newbies in on the WAG method. Start with what does WAG stand for.
Leonard

Edie · 06-02-2004, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iowaroots

Great information. Now, does anyone have the formula of knowing how far off level you are initially, so when building the ramp height you only have to do it once? Eight foot string with a string level and a tape measure???? Who of you veterans might have the magic??

You just set the 4x4 on the ground a foot or two in front of the tires. Then place the board on the 4x4 to create the ramp. Only drive as far up the ramp as far as you need to go to get level.