Planning a trip out west - appreciate some input

[mpsgolf]

The West is HUGE and you'll want to take multiple trips to see everything! But everyone else has passed this on already.

We drove a similar route in May 2015. We live in St Louis and made our way up to I-90 near Sioux Falls, then headed west. On this route, Badlands and Mt Rushmore are on the way to Yellowstone and worth stopping. Near Rushmore is also Crazy Horse and the Mickelson Trail (a rails to trails project and scenic bike trail).

Yellowstone itself is HUGE. We spent 5 nights in the campground near Fishing Bridge, about in the middle of the park. This was enough but we definitely could have spent more. They have full hookups. Book very early (NOW) and stay in the park - anything outside the park will lead to a lot of driving every day to see the park.

From Yellowstone we dropped down to Grand Teton, which is very close. It was gorgeous as well and there are RV parks nearby.

From there we were going to drop down to Dinosaur NP on the border of Utah and CO, and then head home through Denver. We got sidetracked (by work) and went a different way (to Seattle), but that's a whole 'nother story!

Zion, Bryce, Canyonlands and Arches (all in S Utah) are fabulous and a must see - these are a trip by themselves. You'll have a fantastic time, see some beautiful scenery, and want to go back!

Have fun!

[Len n Jeanne]

Just to underline what some of the others have said.

Less is more, in terms of not trying to pile too many destinations into one trip. Unless your idea of a good trip is road-driving most of the time, and not getting a chance to see much of the parks. The one exception would be for people who can't or don't like to walk very far, because it's really best to leave the vehicles behind for a while you saunter around on foot.

Yellowstone is huge, and the speed limit is generally 40 mph, or less when a dozen cars in front of you have spotted a Large Animal and at least one of them brakes in the middle of the road to photograph it. You would need 2-3 days minimum to tour the park, assuming you get out at various places to walk around. Reservations during the high season are strongly recommended, whether in the park or at a gateway community like West Yellowstone. Campers start prowling the "first come first serve" park campgrounds for vacancies early in the morning.

Yellowstone is close to the Tetons, which are breathtakingly beautiful.

Glacier NP is really cool, but about a day's drive from Yellowstone. It has a Park Service free shuttle bus service which is highly recommended, as we've been up to the visitor center on Going-to-the-Sun highway at Logan Pass when there was absolutely no parking anywhere. If you have a high-clearance vehicle and don't mind a rough road, we really like the northwestern area around Bowman and Kintla Lakes. The scenery is spectacular, without all the crowds. We wouldn't take our trailer up there, but go as a day trip.

Note that most National Park campgrounds do not have hook-ups. There is one at Yellowstone that does, but the RVs are really packed in like sardines. There are water taps, but not at each site. Each CG generally has a sani-dump. We'd take a generator & gas can for occasional power, plus a jerry can & funnel for water.

It is a loooong drive from Wyoming and Montana to southern Utah. You might save Zion, Bryce and some of the other desert parks for a separate trip. The Black Hills and Teddy Roosevelt NP might be more on a direct route from Pennsylvania to Yellowstone.

[cprpe]

I can't thank you all enough for your comments! I'm so glad I posted here! I think originally I was very focused on seeing as much as we could possibly see but I wasn't realizing how we'd be too busy rushing around to enjoy what we'll be seeing. That was not a good plan.

I would love to take this trip at a different time of year, but between work and my son's school, there really isn't a choice.

I am going to re-read everyone's individual comments and check out all of the places you mentioned. I will also take the advice of making reservations asap.

My hope is that along the way, we'll also find a few cool places to camp overnight and maybe sightsee a bit (if we don't have to stray far from the highway!). If anyone has a few more suggestions for that, it would also be greatly appreciated!

Once again, I'm a newbie to a forum, but I thank each one of you so much for your advice & time!

[mandolindave]

It can get really hot in the Southwest in August. You might want to limit this to a northern, high elevation road trip.

Another option is to unhook the trailer, take a mini road trip and stay in a motel.

Mount Rushmore is low on my list of favorite spots amongst the multitude of incredible natural wonders in that vicinity. I'm glad I went, and many really enjoy it.

Yeah…..take human bites

[eliset123]

We left RI and it took about five days to get to the badlands. We spent one night and then headed to the Black Hills and Mount Rushmore. We stayed at Rafter J Bar Ranch in Hill city just down the road from Rushmore. We then headed to cody , Yellowstone , and the Tetons

You may have a hard time doing more than that in three weeks and be able to make it back home. Just those stops is a great trip.

[SCOTTinNJ]

The fastest route from Jackson to Yellowstone, Bryce, and then home is 5,358 miles. Over 21 days that's an average of 255 miles per day. You literally won't have time to do anything but drive, sleep, and eat.

Even if you cut out Bryce and only do Yellowstone, you are looking at 4,465 miles, or 212 miles per day on average.

In my estimation that is still way too much.

I am in nearly the same position as you as I'm not far and I have a 5 year old. While I would love to go out west, there just isn't time over a three week span.

I would highly suggest reconsidering the west for when (if) you have more time. There are a lot of amazing places in the east that you can really enjoy over three weeks without driving every day.

Two summers ago we went to Little Rock, AR to visit family over two weeks. That was a 2,500 trip, so about 180 miles per day. I would not prefer to do that again.

Last summer over 2.5 weeks we went to Niagara via Jackson Center, OH and came home through upstate NY. It was a really enjoyable trip at around 1,500 miles, maybe 80 per day average. In fact we are going back to some of the same spots in upstate NY this summer and aren't planning on nearly as much driving even as last year.

My suggestion for August and 3 weeks time would be to head north; upstate NY, New England, Canada, etc. Slow down and enjoy.

You will be happier and so will your 5 year old!

[GammaDog]

We did Yellowstone last summer. Five weeks round trip (from Florida) seemed like we were rushing it. I'm with other folks who've suggested a more leisurely pace, but that's a personal choice and you may prefer moving faster than we do.

With each long trip we are attempting to drive fewer hours on driving days and spend more days without driving. Our current planning guideline is 3 driving hours per day and two days a week without driving at all. Our next trip is the Grand Canyon plus major national parks of Utah. That is going to take 8 weeks at that pace.

That said, here are some thoughts:

- If possible, have one of you drive the AS out and the others fly to maximize the sightseeing time. For whatever reason, I find long days of driving are easier when it's just me.

- Focus on just one destination. In my opinion, Yellowstone is a minimum 5 day stay if you want to have a sense that you took in the sights. Most of the campgrounds there do not have electricity or water at each site. The exception is Fishing Bridge which is also centrally located.

- A Yellowstone alternative is Custer State Park, SD. It lacks the thermal features of Yellowstone but has lots of the same wildlife and some amazing roads, tunnels, rock formations, and other sites. It's very near Mt. Rushmore.

[BoldAdventure]

My wife and I drove 32 hrs straight from Saint Petersburg, FL to Estes Park, CO for a similar trip in 2012. I don't recommend it. Once was enough.

In the span of a week we did Rocky Mt NP, Colorado National Monument > Canyonlands > Capitol Reef > Bryce > Zion > Grand Canyon.

As others have stated, zipping around trying to see everything ruins the experience. You will spend more time in the seat driving than enjoying.

[cprpe]

Again, I appreciate the input!

ScottinNJ, I hear you, but we've spent a ton of time traveling the eastern part of the country - Canada to Florida - especially New England, which we do yearly. Thankfully our kid loves to travel, every part of it - the drive (of course he does sleep a lot), the adventures, the setting up, etc. I think he's more like 55 at heart!

We would love to have more time for a trip out west, but 3 weeks is our max. It will be many, many years before we'd be able to have more time to spend doing it. Over the last decade or so, we've seen many of our friends and family members pass away. Some were very young and seemed healthy, until they weren't. You just never know when your time's up....so we're up for a crazy amount of driving to see some splendor! I realize reigning it in quite a bit is necessary!

Thanks again all!

[SCOTTinNJ]

Originally Posted by cprpe

Again, I appreciate the input!

ScottinNJ, I hear you, but we've spent a ton of time traveling the eastern part of the country - Canada to Florida - especially New England, which we do yearly. Thankfully our kid loves to travel, every part of it - the drive (of course he does sleep a lot), the adventures, the setting up, etc. I think he's more like 55 at heart!

We would love to have more time for a trip out west, but 3 weeks is our max. It will be many, many years before we'd be able to have more time to spend doing it. Over the last decade or so, we've seen many of our friends and family members pass away. Some were very young and seemed healthy, until they weren't. You just never know when your time's up....so we're up for a crazy amount of driving to see some splendor! I realize reigning it in quite a bit is necessary!

Thanks again all!

Sounds like your mind is made up and you have valid reasons.

Perhaps you can do a huge day or two to start the trip? Do you have two drivers or one? At least that way you can knock off a 1000-1200 mile chunk right off the bat.

We recently drove to disney in florida (without the trailer) and did the trip in one shot driving overnight with two drivers and a sleeping (mostly) child. Both there and home. So I do know about long drives and will plan that when warranted. Just not ideal.

[TG Twinkie]

I didn't see Devils Tower or Cody, WY. mentioned. Crazy Horse at night is something to see. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody is more than a full day. So much history and incredible dioramas.
I would plan the trip to Utah for another vacation. It's just too much driving to make the trip enjoyable. You won't have time to see much.

[Len n Jeanne]

I think your trip is doable, but it would just require a straight-out shot from Pennsylvania at least until you reach the Dakotas, with long days in transit, then maybe focus on Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP as they are close together.

Some Montana folks have recommended staying in Mammoth Hot Springs at the north end of Yellowstone. They're a bit isolated from the other thermal features, but apparently the CG and gateway village of Gardiner, MT are less busy than the other main entrances and campgrounds. We stayed last summer at the Grizzly RV Park in West Yellowstone which was nice, expensive, and relatively close to the west side of the park. The really neat thermal features are mostly on the west/southwest side of the park. We've also stayed at the Grant Village and Bay Bridge campgrounds in the park, and they take reservations. Both were nice, but bring lots of levelers if you stay at Bay Bridge as some of the sites are not entirely horizontal.

If you want to reserve a site in the park, I'd suggest you find out from the park website Campgrounds - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service) or Xantera (the concessioner) how soon you can reserve one (6 months in advance?) and then reserve one as soon as you can.

You can avoid some of the crowds at the thermal features & Yellowstone Falls by getting super-early a. m. starts.

For future reference when you get back out West again, a much more doable second trip would be to cluster some of the southern Utah parks (Zion, Bryce Canyon, Arches, Canyonlands, and/or Capitol Reef) plus the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The South Rim is much further away.

Have a great trip!

[spenfolder]

Originally Posted by Len n Jeanne

For future reference when you get back out West again, a much more doable second trip would be to cluster some of the southern Utah parks (Zion, Bryce Canyon, Arches, Canyonlands, and/or Capitol Reef) plus the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The South Rim is much further away.

I have to agree with Len n Jeanne. As much as I LOVE southern Utah, and the Grand Canyon, that's a bit much to add to an amazing trip to Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Glacier and stops in Wyoming and the Dakotas on the way out or back. I'm pretty much right in the middle here in Salt Lake City, and I have spent 3 weeks in Montana, and a different 3 weeks in Zion, Bryce, Arches, Canyonlands and the Grand Canyon. And I have been to both destinations many times. I never tire of either trip.

The west is amazing, and once you visit, you will want to come back. So break this into two trips. I would suggest 2 days in Grand Teton, at least 3-4 days in Yellowstone, and 2-3 days in Glacier. The trip between the three parks is spectacular as well.

Here is a little video to tempt you back to Utah in the future. Totally worth another trip! Fall is a beautiful time to visit, and maybe we could hook up. I'm always up for another trip to southern Utah (or Montana)!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlKOcyf915M

What ever you decide, take your time, plan lots of stops, and enjoy. But be warned, the west is addictive.

Stan
Salt Lake City

[eliset123]

Cody, WY was a fun stop for us on our trip as it was around the 4th of July . We stayed at a park in town but drove by the Buffalo Bill state park on our way into Yellowstone and it looked like a nice place to stop .Having done this trip last summer and much more over 55 days the advice here by others is spot on. Keep it relaxed once you get out west. I could spend the summer in the Tetons . Have Fun!

[mimiandrews]

Add up the miles, do the math, divide up the driving duties, and cut your trip down to something you can enjoy. "The West," as a lot of easterners call it, is a really, really big place. Not only that, there's another really, really big place, called the Great Plains, between you and Yellowstone.

With only three weeks available, you're going to have to put this in "financial" terms and make a budget--not a money budget, but a time and human endurance budget.

I think your trip is worth doing, but don't miss once-in-a-lifetime scenery because you're busy driving or too tired to really look at it.

[cprpe]

You guys are all awesome! Thanks so much for all these great suggestions!
I'm sure this will be addictive!

Yes, I think we do plan on doing at least a couple of long drives for the first couple of days & last couple on the way home. We can take turns driving. As long as I don't have to back it in to a campsite, I am ok with it.

Not only has this forum got me scaled down to a more doable trip, it's got me even more pumped up for it!

[reelfastgreg]

if we have a destination in mind, we don't really mind 500-600 mile days. tough on the toush but doable.

[Sjcjr]

Originally Posted by gpt

if we have a destination in mind, we don't really mind 500-600 mile days. tough on the toush but doable.

Agreed. Some of us don't have the luxury of time! You do what you have to do given the time you do have. If that means 500 mile days for a few days in order to reach your destination, then "so be it".

[Ted S.]

This was our Itinerary, some formatting was lost pasting it in, PM me if you would like a copy in Microsoft Word.


YELLOWSTONE – TETONS 2015
~ ITINERARY ~

June 30: LEG 1 - Drive to Cabela’s (446 miles, 6.57 hrs)
Destination: 2003 Walden Ave, Cheektowaga, NY 14225
Campsite: Cabela’s, (716) 608-4770
 Camp at Cabela’s

July 1: LEG 2 - Drive to Indiana Dunes State Park (493 miles, 7.49 hrs)
Destination: 1600 N 25 E, Chesterton, IN 46304
Campsite: Indiana Dunes State Park, (219) 926-1952
 Camp at Indiana Dunes State Park

July 2: LEG 3 - Drive to Lebanon Hill Regional Park (460 miles, 7.04 hrs)
Destination: 12100 Johnny Cake Ridge Rd, Apple Valley, MN 55124
Campsite: Lebanon Hills Campground, (651) 688-1376
 Girls Arrive at 11 pm via Sun Country Airlines Flt # SY 0254

July 3: LEG 4 - Drive to Badlands, SD (554 miles, 7.54 hrs)
Destination: 20681 South Dakota Highway 240, Interior, SD 57750
Campsite: Cedar Pass Campground, (877) 386-4383
 See Okaton, SD Ghost Town
 Stop at Corn Palace
 Hike Badlands Notch Trail
Potential
 Boondock, Rim Rd, South of Wall
 Visit Wall
 Visit Launch Facility (Missile Silo) Delta-09

July 4: LEG 5 - Drive to Black Hills NF, SD (127 miles, 3.15 hrs)
Destination: 12325 Rafter J-Bar Rd, Hill City, SD 57745
Via Badlands Scenic Loop/Sage Creek Rd
Campsite: Flying J Bar Ranch, (605) 574-2527
 See Badlands
 See Scenic, SD
 See Mt Rushmore
 Lighting/Fireworks
 Hike Presidential Trail

July 5: Black Hills NF, SD
Campsite: Flying J Bar Ranch
 Bike Mickelson Trail ~ Shuttle from Rabbit Bicycle & Repair, Hill City, SD, (605) 574-4302
 See Crazy Horse Monument
 Eat at Laughing Water Restaurant
Potential
 See Custer State Park
 Drive Wildlife Loop

July 6: LEG 6 - Drive to Bighorn NF, WY (471 miles, 7.5 hrs)
Destination: Bighorn National Forest, 3061–3063 E US Highway 16, Manderson, WY 82442
Campsite: Sitting Bull, Lost Cabin, or Boondock along Cloud Peak
 See Devils Tower
 Hike around Devils Tower “Tower Trail”

July 7: LEG 7 - Drive to Cody, WY (xxx miles, x hrs)
Destination: 47 Lakeside Rd, Cody, WY 82414
Campsite: Buffalo Bill State Park, (307) 587-9227
 Drive thru Crazy Woman Canyon
 See Cody, WY
 See Rodeo
 See Buffalo Bill Museum
 Eat Prime Rib at the Ira

July 8: LEG 8 - Drive to Yellowstone NP, WY (xxx miles, x hrs)
Destination: N44° 33.873' W110° 22.478'
Campsite: Fishing Bridge RV Park, (307) 587-9227

July 9 Yellowstone NP, WY
Campsite: Fishing Bridge RV Park, (307) 587-9227
 Circle of Fire Tour

July 10-13: Yellowstone NP, WY
Campsite: Fishing Bridge RV Park, (307) 587-9227
 Yellowstone Rough Riders Pack Trip

July 14: LEG 9 - Drive to Tetons NP, WY (xxx miles, x hrs)
Destination: 750 W Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001
Campsite: Virginian RV Park, (307) 733-7189

July 15: Tetons NP, WY
Campsite: Virginian RV Park, (307) 733-7189
 Oil Change, Woody Smith Ford, 535 S. Yellow Stone Highway 191, Rexburg, ID, (888) 841-7659
 Bear World, Rexburg, ID
 Spud Drive In
Potential
 Jackson Hole Rodeo

July 16: Tetons NP, WY
Campsite: Virginian RV Park, (307) 733-7189
 Tram based backing trip
Potential
 Elk Island

July 17: Tetons NP, WY
Destination: 100 Colter Bay Village Rd, Moran, WY 83013
Campsite: Camp Colter Bay RV Park, (800) 628-9988

 Jackson Lake Dinner Cruise

July 18: Tetons NP, WY
Campsite: Camp Colter Bay RV Park, (800) 628-9988
 Girls’ fly home out of Jackson, WY

July 19-20: Tetons NP, WY
 Climbing School

July 21-22: Tetons NP, WY
Climb Grant Teton

July 23-26: Drive to....
Drive Home

[OregonVista]

Skimmed the comments and agree with most everyone. We have been across country twice and you really can't go wrong whichever way you go.

HOWEVER, watch out for "Bike Week" in Sturgis, South Dakota. This year it is August 8-14. We were unknowingly caught up in it in 2013 and even in Custer, SD were lucky to get a camping space. With over 700,000 bikers most every accommodation within 70 miles of Sturgis is full to overflowing. Not a bad crowd, just lots and lots of people!


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