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Old 11-10-2020, 02:09 PM   #21
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2020 28' Flying Cloud
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Hiawassee , Georgia
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The crescent shaped (Anderson) levelers and the bubble levels on the outside of the trailer work really well for us.
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Old 11-10-2020, 02:35 PM   #22
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McHenry , Illinois
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+++ for the Level Mate Pro and Anderson levelers. I put the truck in 4WD low and creep forward until the Level Mate app on my phone is green (0.00). Takes all the guess work out of the process. They handle from 1/2” to 4”.

*Stock photo of the Anderson levelers - not an AS
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Old 11-10-2020, 02:40 PM   #23
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Boondocker here. Where we camp. Nothing is level.

So we park and put the level in the fridge and because we do this so much. We can pretty much tell by where the bubble is and a quick eye job wether we need a 2x4 or a 4x4.

It is not hard.

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Old 11-10-2020, 06:00 PM   #24
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2009 30' Classic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
No takers on the what's the extra set of lines on the vial for?

Inquiring minds, here ya go. Still has to do with getting stuff to flow.

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/tools/2...nd-use-a-level
Thanks for the info......
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Old 11-10-2020, 06:02 PM   #25
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2018 16' Sport
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I make a small ramp using 1 or 2 more lego blocks than I think I'll need and a 2 foot long 2x6 laid on top. Then slowly drive the AS tires up the ramp till wifey yells to stop and the wheels are part way up the ramp.

Obviously being very careful to not drive off the top of the ramp. Also, I try to not go all the way to the top of the lego blocks.

Block the wheels - I use the hard rubber chocks. I think they grip the wood ramp better than the plastic chocks.

No math, no guessing, no trial and error.


I have a single axle. But I have used this method for years on many trailers with dual axles.
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Old 11-10-2020, 06:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atwebs View Post
Gads, you don't need to do the math AT ALL.

Get the half moon type of levelers. Decide where you want the trailer and which side needs to be raised. Slip the leveler(s) under that side and back slowly until it is level. We use a person near our "el cheapo" stick on level on the frame to announce perfection. STOP, chock and you are done.

Way easier than the lego type, no need to think and ultimately adjustable because a little more or a little less is merely a matter of moving the rig slightly.

We spend years with both wood (my husband's father loved that system) and the lego type (that seemed either too much or too little most of the time). But, everytime we use the Anderson levelers we smile -it is just so easy.

Only issue I have heard (and we haven't experienced it) is that they are just a tad too long to move easily when you are "dismounting". Solution is to trim the narrow front part about 1" so they are shorter, but we haven't ever had that issue.
Yep. That’s what i use. Very easy. I just have my wife put the level on the back bumper, and when it is close she tells me to stop. Then lock the brakes, and put the wheel stop in. Unlock brakes. Simple. Cheap. I carry a rubber mallet to knock out the levelers if they get stuck between the wheels. It’s happened once. No big deal.
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Old 11-10-2020, 06:49 PM   #27
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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I permenately placed a torpedo level on the sill outside of the screen inside the glass on a window over my axles (curbside). I also, installed a large level on the roadside lower edge of our plexiglas rock guard. When I drive up at a site, I maneuver around until large level say I am. Then I use the tongue jack to level the torpedo level. As a last resort, if the fore and aft is not level I pick a spot that keeps our heads above our feet for better sleeping. If the water will stay in the toilet it is level enough for us. I have not used the leveling blocks for years, but I admit the three axles make it much easier and much more stable.
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:06 AM   #28
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Fill a glass on the table with beer. If it's uneven, step out and drink the beer while the DW pulls forward and you add a spacer for the tires. Get another beer because the first one was off, and no one likes off beer, then repeat till the glass is even all the way around. Works every time but sometime it takes several attempts.
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:16 PM   #29
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West Dundee , Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
No takers on the what's the extra set of lines on the vial for?

Inquiring minds, here ya go. Still has to do with getting stuff to flow.

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/tools/2...nd-use-a-level
Those of for plumbers. Poop rolls downhill. They can set the drain pipes at the 1/4" drop per foot they need with those outer lines
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:25 PM   #30
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we use the Level Mate Pro

Steps

1, pull into the site
2, check Level Mate Pro for L-R
3. place block on the low side
4. pull fwd until level.
5. park , disconnect and move TV fwd
6. level with jack F-B
7. next we lock the 6 Happijac 191025 Jack Stabilizers

now we are level
The Jack Stabilizers are great, they prevent any rocking when parked.
They make HUG difference in the camp ground
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:37 PM   #31
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2009 30' Classic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbashin View Post
Fill a glass on the table with beer. If it's uneven, step out and drink the beer while the DW pulls forward and you add a spacer for the tires. Get another beer because the first one was off, and no one likes off beer, then repeat till the glass is even all the way around. Works every time but sometime it takes several attempts.
Ha!really like this idea. We will try this next time
Great!!
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:55 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pontzdav View Post
The nuns teaching third grade made us learn those times table. I still remember them. Will test the multiply by twelve technique next time out.
There is no math to do, after the calculation is done only one time!

Just remember --- when using a torpedo level, for each ~1/16" out of level, add 3/4" under the low tire.
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