Back-up cameras, that is.
My "plan A" was to utilize the optional BC-30 that connects to the Garmin RV 770.
One of my rules is "nothing on the windshield with suction cups". The RV770 sits on the dash using a bean bag mount, so anything more had to be creative. The camera worked as advertised, I mounted it inside the rear window and I just lay the transmitter on the bed. The camera stays out of the weather and uses a RAM Mount arm to a 1/4" x 20 threaded insert into the cabinet bottom right where the divider is so nothing shows in the cabinet.
However, the BC-30 has two huge drawbacks, IMO. 1. The resolution is only 295 lines, meaning in low light a bush looks like a rock, or a shadow. Reminds me of a bad VHS copy.
2. It's very wide angle, which means you see a lot, but cars appear as a speck and zoom up in size as they pass. The plus side is I could see my rear bumper which was great for backing.
I also have a RAM arm for the TPMS/cup holder so I could add a monitor on that, drill no holes and remove it for day to day driving.
I decided to keep the mounting concept, but to add a second camera with good resolution. My choices narrowed down to the Furrion, expensive and mixed reviews on pairing. Voyager, and I liked Haloview. I bought the Haloview with the 7" monitor, based on customer service reviews/cost. (I know a lot of you like the mirror mount, but it's not for me.) #7108.
Yes, I knew what a Faraday cage the Airstream could be, but sometimes you just stick your finger in the electric socket.
The camera mount is pretty straight forward, the BC-30 is mounted on what normally would be the bottom mounting plate for the camera, while the Sunshade became the upper attachment.
I attached the monitor using it's T-slot to a 1" Ram Ball. The T-slot is never mentioned, but works great and I don't need the bracket.
Then that attached to the existing 1" Ram Arm using a mount for a motorcycle handlebar.
The weight was too much for the cup holder, so I added a brace to the dash using some offroad supplier's beautifully machined 1" ball to Tundra Vent clamp.
Finally time to push the button. Haloview says they already pair the camera to the monitor as "cam 4". There's a harness for trigger wires (Left turn/right turn/dashcam if you have more cameras. I don't.
It was a matter of plugging the supplied monitor cable into my cigar lighter plug.
The camera gets it's power (currently) from one of the many USB ports through an adapter. I'll remove the USB and install a dedicated 12v
. lighter plug for both cameras. Below, you can see the two cameras. I aimed the BC-30 down to see the bumper, and the Haloview back to see the road and traffic behind me.
I was shocked when the camera popped right up. All I did was turn it on! Picture is beautiful! The menu lets you flip the image as required by your application, as well as good control of the brightness, color, etc.
I drove 700 miles and it never dropped out. I even took the monitor antenna and flipped it horizontal. No breakup, but I lost one bar of signal. At my storage yard I disconnected and drove around to check the range. I got hundreds of feet from the camera, even with buildings in the way, and never lost the signal. Haloview claims 900' of range, and I believe it!
I do need the camera to be very close to the glass to eliminate reflections when the Sun is very low on the rear window. I worried that the built in Infra red lighting might wash out the picture at night, but I don't see anything.
I did have to cut the screen, not because of clearance, but the cameras are so wide that the screen is in focus. I never open the back window anyway.
Cudos to Haloview.