There plenty to do in New Orleans if you've never been to keep you busy for a week. Spend day one exploring the French Quarter on foot. Go in cathedral and the cabildo museums next door. Walk through the French Market if open. Visit Frenchman's street area at night for some great live music. The excellent WWII museum deserves a day by itself. Another day could be spend uptown walking Magazine street for part of the day, riding St Charles street car, and visiting zoo or some of the breweries located in the warehouse district. Another day could be spent on a side trip to the plantations or a swamp tour. Visit the world of Mardi Gras to get a feel of it. And if you're history buff, don't forget the Battle of New Orleans battlefield in chalmette.
As for past v present, my first impression of New Orleans almost 40 years ago was opening the car door to a pool of blood near the gutter in the French quarter, someone trying to mug my dad (unsuccessfully), and walking down bourbon street seeing lots of anatomy. New Orleans got cleaned up for the 1984 Worlds Fair and to some extent following Katrina but still retains its charm and uniqueness.
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