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04-19-2004, 01:30 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Oregon City
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 19
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Dual Cam Anti-Sway
I want to install the Dual Cam Anti-Sway system on my 1965 22' Safari. My concern: I will need to drill into the frame to install the frame brackets and don't want to damage the electric cord inside frame. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Darrell
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04-19-2004, 02:08 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 58
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Dual cam install
everything bolts on to the frame.
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04-19-2004, 02:27 PM
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#3
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Go ahead and drill
I would recommend the new HD Dual Cam which is an impressive set of bronze castings. It does require drilling, but I far prefer that for a permanent installation to clamp-on hooks. Also, with the bolt-on, there is never any interference with the tanks, battery boxes, or whatever may be on the A-frame.
There are wires in the street-side frame. I simply used a long cedar shim inserted from the front of the frame to hold the wires out of the way while drilling. You can leave the shim in place to prevent the wires rubbing on the end of the screws, but my wires didn't touch the screws when I was done.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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04-19-2004, 04:43 PM
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#4
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1 Rivet Member
Oregon City
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 19
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This is why I joined!!!!!!
Thanks for the great tip. Installation: how difficult? I am handy but not a certified mechanic!
Thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
I would recommend the new HD Dual Cam which is an impressive set of bronze castings. It does require drilling, but I far prefer that for a permanent installation to clamp-on hooks. Also, with the bolt-on, there is never any interference with the tanks, battery boxes, or whatever may be on the A-frame.
There are wires in the street-side frame. I simply used a long cedar shim inserted from the front of the frame to hold the wires out of the way while drilling. You can leave the shim in place to prevent the wires rubbing on the end of the screws, but my wires didn't touch the screws when I was done.
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04-19-2004, 04:45 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
Oregon City
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 19
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Thanks, everyone!
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04-20-2004, 10:25 AM
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#6
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Installation took between an hour and an hour and a half including hitching up the trailer and towing a short distance to align the links after mounting the hardware.
Clamp the links in place, mark your hole locations, and start with a small drill bit and go to progressively larger bits until the holes are the proper size. use a shim of wood to get the wires in the street side out of harm's way before drilling. I used a 12v battery powered drill motor; if I had 120v available for a more powerful drill, it would have gone faster.
The instructions are pretty good.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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04-20-2004, 01:20 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
Oregon City
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 19
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Thanks John,
Your support and knowledge is grand. May all you travel be safe and happy!
Darrell
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04-20-2004, 09:57 PM
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#8
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Aluminut
2004 25' Safari
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, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
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I just did it a few weeks ago. I got a colbat tip drill bit and it took literally 30-45 seconds to chew a hole into the frame. One word of caution....measure 20x and drill once. Little room for error. Also, as an added precaution, I took some GE silicone caulk and sealed the brackets to the frame so that water would not get into the raw exposed steel that I drilled. Kind on excessive I know, but it took only a few seconds extra.
As for the power line, I didn't hit it when drilling, but the silicone calk also helped insulate the wires from the bolt.
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