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Phoenix · 10-28-2014, 02:24 PM

2008 Tundra CrewMax TRD Limited with tow package, 5.7L, 2WD, 65,000 miles. I do NOT use tow/haul mode, but manually downshift on long grades low enough that brakes are unnecessary, except for emergency stops.

We have towed our 19' Bambi in Rocky Mountains, Sierra Nevadas, Cascades, and throughout the West.

No brake problems, so far.

m.hony · 10-28-2014, 05:06 PM

Nothing lasts forever. My truck is 8 model years old-
Shucks, it even still has the original battery. When it comes time to replace the battery or brake rotors I can't complain. The only maintenance other than oil changes has been 1 set of tires, 1 serpentine accessory drive belt, 1 fog light bulb, 1 air filter, and 2 cabin filters- not bad for 6 years of ownership and 4 1/2 years of camper pullin'-

Goal15 · 10-28-2014, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

Nothing lasts forever. My truck is 8 model years old-
Shucks, it even still has the original battery. When it comes time to replace the battery or brake rotors I can't complain. The only maintenance other than oil changes has been 1 set of tires, 1 serpentine accessory drive belt, 1 fog light bulb, 1 air filter, and 2 cabin filters- not bad for 6 years of ownership and 4 1/2 years of camper pullin'-

Have you or do you intend to replace the timing belt or does Toyota still recommend that at 60k like they do on Camrys

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Goal15 · 10-28-2014, 08:01 PM

Answered my own question. My tundra has timing chain not belt. Much longer life

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m.hony · 10-28-2014, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goal15

Have you or do you intend to replace the timing belt or does Toyota still recommend that at 60k like they do on Camrys

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I don't know yet. I'm at 43,000 miles.

Goal15 · 10-28-2014, 08:35 PM

It appears that on the 5.7 V8 there is a timing chain that should last the entire life of the engine and only needs to be replaced if you overhaul the motor. This according to the TundraSolutions Forum

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panora2 · 10-28-2014, 10:15 PM

An experienced semi driver friend of mine said that he and a number of other drivers prevent hot, warped, brakes by following a simple rule when possible. Never go faster down the hill than you were able to go up. So if you can pull your AS 35 or 40 mph up then you have an idea where you should try and maintain speed going down. Save brakes, rotars and money. I just spent $1,300 buying rotars on all 4 wheels for my F250 in Council Bluffs.

perryg114 · 10-29-2014, 09:24 AM

Use your gears to slow down and brake only when that is not enough. You can get the brakes so hot that the fluid boils and you have no brakes at all. I use to do this all the time while dirt biking and using the rear brake to steer. I would have to stop and pour water over the brake caliper. If you have the tow/haul thing use it. I am sure that one reason trucks use air brakes is that they will work when red hot till something melts.

Perry

Bill M. · 10-29-2014, 11:11 AM

I do not have a Tundra. I have an older Ford 150 so I know a bit about brake shimmy. I read a post a while back by Gene who said that at some point Tundra went to thinner rotors and his new Tundra developed this shimmy whereas his old Tundra did not. I think the ultimate solution is to install a better set of rotors if that is possible.

mefly2 · 10-29-2014, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Roror warping due to heat is really pretty uncommon, unless you REALLY abuse the brakes, as evidenced by blueing of the rotor.

And yet- many experienced and knowledgeable technicians suggest seating / burnishing high performance brakes / rotors to get best braking results. The process is repetitive hard braking from 60+ down to zero ...repeated multiple times. The check for that burnishing is to see the bluing on the rotors after burnishing. So, then the key is to not overheat to cause rotor warping ... not simply the bluing of the rotor.

wavelength · 10-29-2014, 01:50 PM

It's definitely your rotors I had the same issue on my 2007 limited double cab towing our 25ft excella replaced the rear rotors and pads and had the fronts turned, problem solved

xrvr · 10-29-2014, 01:57 PM

I believe driving with the four ways on is illegal in Florida. Don't get a ticket. Jim

Goal15 · 10-29-2014, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi

I believe driving with the four ways on is illegal in Florida. Don't get a ticket. Jim

Well in that I probably won't encounter any 6% grades in Florida, I don't think it will be an issue.....

Hophead · 10-30-2014, 08:26 AM

I think you my be right on with this. Thanks!

Hophead · 10-30-2014, 08:28 AM

Rotor heating makes most sense. Toyota checked mine and are OK. But they may warp went hot and then reset when cooling. I found out we can get a heavy duty / high performance rotor when they wear out.

Hophead · 10-30-2014, 08:30 AM

Thanks for the input. Am easy on brakes and speed when going down hill.

Hophead · 10-30-2014, 08:31 AM

I agree, a more heavy duty rotor needed.

**GCinSC2** · 10-30-2014, 09:42 AM

Infrared thermometer, been mentioned many times by many folks as a great tool for evaluating brakes. That vehicles energy gets turned into heat at the brakes.

Highest temp I ever personally shot on AS rotor was over 800 deg F due to caliper piston sticking. It was smoking. Not any more , I fixed it.

Service manuals have rotor inspection procedures. Anybody ever challenge the service mgr for the readings from for example using a dial indicator or caliper for actual data? As opposed to, naw the tech said they were OK.

Hey Rich, ever get involved with Martensite hot spots on rotors or drums?

perryg114 · 10-30-2014, 10:39 AM

There are aftermarket rotors out there with lots of whistles and bells, some of which maybe snake oil and some not. Stainless steel rotors would be best if they make them. Also something that is a billet and not cast would be good. Rotors warp because the structure of the metal is not uniform which is common for castings.

Perry

dznf0g · 10-30-2014, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Infrared thermometer, been mentioned many times by many folks as a great tool for evaluating brakes. That vehicles energy gets turned into heat at the brakes.

Highest temp I ever personally shot on AS rotor was over 800 deg F due to caliper piston sticking. It was smoking. Not any more , I fixed it.

Service manuals have rotor inspection procedures. Anybody ever challenge the service mgr for the readings from for example using a dial indicator or caliper for actual data? As opposed to, naw the tech said they were OK.

Hey Rich, ever get involved with Martensite hot spots on rotors or drums?

Rarely...and I can't specifically say what the spots were/had become. I do recall thay caused a back and forth (longitudinal) pulsation sensation with no steering wheel shimmy nor pedal pulsation. And it's a more rapid frequency pulsation/vibration than wheel rotational frequency...or even second order, common to thickness variation.

Rotors did have irregular patches of odd discoloration. That's a replace issue. Seem to recall lathe skipped and jumped all around the spots and damaged the cutting tips.