1000# v. 1500# BlueOx bars w/F250

[VeloBuckeye]

Quick question for those with 3/4 ton TVs and BlueOx SwayPro hitches:

I recently upgraded to a F250 for my FC27FB (confirmed tongue weight of almost 1100 lbs). Used to tow with a F150 diesel and used the 1500# weight bars. I started off using the 1000# bars, but found the stiffer 1500# bars worked and felt better with the F150.

I seem to recall (but can't find) a previous thread suggesting 1500# bars may be too stiff for my FC27 when towing with a F250, placing too much stress on the AS, and that 1000# bars will be fine considering it's a F250. As before, I will adjust the chain links to ensure correct WD and TV leveling.

Any experienced thoughts on this? I still have both sets of bars and figured I'll try them both out, but would still appreciate some expert comments. Won't pull the AS out of storage until early April so I have some time to ponder/research this... THANKS!

INFO:
- 2018 FC 27FB - 1081# tongue weight
- BlueOx SwayPro WD hitch - 2 1/2" shank
- Class V 3" hitch receiver with 2 1/2" reducer
- 2020 F250 PowerStroke Diesel
- 10800# GVWR Package
- High Capacity Trailer Tow Package
- 3.55 axle

[panamerican]

I'm using either 600lb or 800lb bars depending on which trailer. Keep in mind that you are not looking to offload the entire hitch weight, you are trying to distribute it. The suspension on a 3/4 ton truck does not need as much help as a 1/2 ton. 1500lb bars with a 3/4 ton truck is kin to hitting a fly with a sledgehammer IMHO.

You could prob be fine with 1000lb bars but with a 27 footer, my vote would be 800lb bars max. FWIW, I use Reese, not Blue Ox, but the physics are similar.


If you had a slide out, then for sure 1000lb bars, but 27' FB....

[1StreamDream]

I am going through a very similar transition as you are, F150 to F250, but I have the "Equalizer" brand WD hitch, they seem to be a very similar design so I think my experience can help you. I have a 25' FC, about 1100 lbs tongue weight last I checked at a scale, and I have 1400lb bars. The real key is to realize those bars, and the tension in them, are the sway control so reducing the pressure in them will reduce your sway control. I found this on the Blue Ox website :

"SwayPro relies on tension to keep its spring bars taut and the brackets ensure that pressure from the spring bars will keep the trailer in line with your towing vehicle."

I only recently got the F250, and have about 1500 miles of towing with it, but I kept my setup (level of tension in the bars) as close to original as I could. Not because I am worried about the weight distribution, it is because I want to keep my sway control in my favor. I have seen a number of posts suggestion with the F250 you can tow with no WD at all, and while I agree that is probably a real possibility, I want to retain my sway control, and don't want to switch systems just to avoid the WD bars. I am happy with what I have, and I continue to use the bars as originally setup. Be careful about reducing your sway control.

[LNBright]

I have a Blue Ox, but a smaller trailer and a 1500, so not the same as your setup:

Your 1500 bars, I'd try them first with a lower number of links extending past, so you aren't leveraging the full amount. I'd try them at a few different settings, then switch to your 1000 bars since you still have them, and see how they compare against. For your HD truck, I don' think you'd need the 1500 bars, the 1000 should be fine and possibly preferable, but I'd try the 1500 first then the 1000 to see which you prefer (and even with the 1000, still tune them by a few links, see if there's a particularly sweet spot).

[waninae39]

best to get bars that are close to the max , but higher than the max and not lower than your max.

if they are too big, they will be too stiff and a very HARSH ride

[Gibson3798]

I use 1000lb bars with my 28ft. International/RAM 2500 setup.

They are more than adequate, IMO.

[jeffmc306]

VeloBuckeye, I have the same situation - went from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton with a 27’ Globetrotter using a Blue Ox SwayPro setup. I had 1000# bars but like you, found the GT’s tongue weight to be around 1100 lbs. I wanted to shift more weight off the tongue and bought the 1500 lbs. bars for the 1/2 ton. I noticed very little improvement and in fact, a rougher ride on the trailer.

Eventually we moved up to a 3/4 ton and stuck with the 1500 lbs. bars for the first trip to Colorado. We had no sway but stuff inside the trailer was all over. Next trip out I tried the 1000 lbs. bars and again, no sway but the trailer seemed to bounce less.

My theory is if the 1000 lbs. bars prevent sway and the ride is better I’ll go with that. The truck has plenty of payload compared to the 1/2 ton so I don’t need the WD part. I still carry the 1500 lbs bars as spares but haven’t used them in the last year.

By the way, I found out later that BlueOx doesn’t recommend using 1500 lbs. bars on anything less than a Class V hitch (my 1/2 ton was a Class IV).

Hope that helps!
Jeff

[JonDNC]

I have an F350 and use the 1000 lb bars on my 27 International. Works great no sway and not too bouncey unless rough road. Tire pressure at 65 on trailer.

[panamerican]

I may be wrong here, and if I am, I've been wrong for over 20 years and am happy to be shown the light...but if I'm right.....

You do not need to get bars that meet or exceed the hitch weight with a 3/4, or 1 ton truck. Stiffer bars on a 3/4 or 1 ton truck is massive overkill. Remember, you are not taking all the weight from the hitch and pushing it to the trailer and the front of the TV, you are distributing some of it. Using smaller bars, increases flex, which is needed for these kinds of friction-less sway control.

So to put it another way, you have 1100lb hitch weight. The back of your 3/4 or 1 ton can take that dead load (provided the receiver can) without any bars. What you are doing is taking SOME of that 1100lbs and moving it to the trailer axles AND some off to the front axle of the TV, while some will remain on the rear TV axle. So in theory, of that 1100lbs, say 200-300 is distributed to the front TV axle, 200-300 on the trailer axle(s) and the rest on the TV rear axle. Even if these numbers are grossly off you can see first hand how 1500lb bars are not going to give you the flex or better weight distribution unless you choke them up massively, which will cause other problems long term. For the Reese type systems, it's about 4 chains in my exp.

Putting bars that are grossly over the hitch weight isn't going to give you better performance on a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Bars equal or better yet, just a bit less, will have a better exp as they will flex and still move a percentage of that hitch weight away from the rear of the TV.

On lesser vehicles with less rear capacity, yes, you need to move more of that hitch weight to stay within spec, so in this example, 1000lb bars would be optimum, no way you can use 600 or 800lb bars here, but with a 3/4 or 1 ton, you can very easily use 800 or 1000lb bars and maybe even 600lb bars since you are not moving the full 1100lb hitch weight.

As has been pointed out and matches my exp...with a 3/4 ton (or larger), the smaller the bars the better the ride. Ride is ancillary though.

[dznf0g]

I dont think anything over 1k for any AS (maybe a slide model) is needed for any vehicle. Flexibility is important. I run 1k on 1500 Silverado (30' classic)and wouldn't go any higher. I have run 800# bars on a reese dual cam, and it is fine too.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by panamerican

I may be wrong here, and if I am, I've been wrong for over 20 years and am happy to be shown the light...but if I'm right.....

You do not need to get bars that meet or exceed the hitch weight with a 3/4, or 1 ton truck. Stiffer bars on a 3/4 or 1 ton truck is massive overkill. Remember, you are not taking all the weight from the hitch and pushing it to the trailer and the front of the TV, you are distributing some of it. Using smaller bars, increases flex, which is needed for these kinds of friction-less sway control.

So to put it another way, you have 1100lb hitch weight. The back of your 3/4 or 1 ton can take that dead load (provided the receiver can) without any bars. What you are doing is taking SOME of that 1100lbs and moving it to the trailer axles AND some off to the front axle of the TV, while some will remain on the rear TV axle. So in theory, of that 1100lbs, say 200-300 is distributed to the front TV axle, 200-300 on the trailer axle(s) and the rest on the TV rear axle. Even if these numbers are grossly off you can see first hand how 1500lb bars are not going to give you the flex or better weight distribution unless you choke them up massively, which will cause other problems long term. For the Reese type systems, it's about 4 chains in my exp.

Putting bars that are grossly over the hitch weight isn't going to give you better performance on a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Bars equal or better yet, just a bit less, will have a better exp as they will flex and still move a percentage of that hitch weight away from the rear of the TV.

On lesser vehicles with less rear capacity, yes, you need to move more of that hitch weight to stay within spec, so in this example, 1000lb bars would be optimum, no way you can use 600 or 800lb bars here, but with a 3/4 or 1 ton, you can very easily use 800 or 1000lb bars and maybe even 600lb bars since you are not moving the full 1100lb hitch weight.

^
X2

We have a '3/4' Burb and use a haha PPP.
Our TW is 1200lb on a Sherline tongue scale with 1000lb WD bars.
It's not so much how heavy your TW is, it's how MUCH of that weight needs to be moved and how compliant the TV suspension is.
The stiffer the suspension the lighter the bars.
Stiff bars & stiff suspension equals a stiff lash-up, not conducive to a safe comfortable tow.

BTW...not a fan of using WD as a work-a-round for poor carry capacity.🤔

Bob
🇺🇸

[BayouBiker]

The 1500# bars are much stiffer than would be healthy for the trailer. The relevant issue is the range of additional tension generated based the range of motion of the tongue and ball in pitch and the significant direction is downward as that puts the most stress on the trailer frame. Ok so if your vehicle has 2 inches of suspension movement to bottom on the stops, that translates to 3 or more inches of bar flex. For the 1000 lb bars that's about 400 lb addition force on the trailer. for the 1500# bars its about 900 additional force. And this is in addition to the 1000 or so already applied. Go with the 1000# bars.

[SilverPal2]

I use 1000# bars, F250, 30' classic works perfectly

[58Model219]

I replaced the chains with "Strapteck", it's a heavy duty ratchet strap that is a lot easier and safer to use than chains. The plastic handle slides off the wrench whenever I used it too.
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-33585.../dp/B00JJZ3T7S

[gypsydad]

I had 1000lb bars with my F150 towing 2 different 25's. My current 28' at 1100 lbs tongue weight, I use 1500lbbara with my F250. They were stiff at first, and could only get to 4.5 links showing first year. Now 3.5 links showing and very good control/ride. 3rd time I have used Blue Ox. Good WDH. IMHO