Waste tank removal

[ariverclown]

3rd time to try an post, grrr. I need advice on the removal of the waste tank on my 66 SS Sabre so I can rework the sub-floor. If I remove the top bolts shown in the picture will that allow me to lift the tank out? Got to get small hands!

[TG Twinkie]

That is a mighty small picture. Can't see much. Is the tank above the floor?

[ariverclown]

Yes the tank is above the floor. Let me try to reload the picture

[ariverclown]

Hows that

[ariverclown]

Here is the tank

[TG Twinkie]

Can you tell if the outlet of the tank goes thru the floor?
Do you have access from below?
Some tank connections are a slip fit to the waste piping. It is held in place by a hose clamp.

[ariverclown]

Thanks for following Twinkie. I will post some pictures under the tank tomorrow. Maybe you are another viewer will recognize what I'm dealing with. The tank sit on top of some 1x1 blocks and the square fitting does seem to have a rubber like fitting between it and the tank. There is a slide valve and just below the valve is where the shower and kitchen sink merge and would just drop onto the ground if not hooked to a waste system. I'm jus leary of grabbing and yanking for fear I would mess up something that didn't have to be. Thanks, hope to hear from some of the knowledge that I know is out there.
Ron

[ariverclown]

This shot is just under the tank. I used a block to lift it some. All parts feel hard. I don't feel any rubber slip stuff. What a mess! Wondering if I ripp all this out can I find replacement parts. I'd bite my nails while waiting on a reply but plumbers say that's something to avoid when working around sewage. Remove bolts? Anybody seen a set up like this?

[TG Twinkie]

In looking at the first pic and your last pic, I would say it is a bolt together flange. It may have a rubber seal inside. It also looks like at least one bolt is missing. Either fell out or rusted away. I would remove the bolts and see if the flange separates.
I could be that the tank has a smooth outlet fitting and by slipping the two halves of the flange over the outlet and tightening the bolts it makes a seal.

[TG Twinkie]

In looking closer at the setup. It appears to be a 4 way cross with 2 sweeps coming in from the side for the grey water.
You say the grey water runs out below the waste dump valve. Where is the waste dump valve? Is it close to the bottom of the tank? I don't see a handle or operating rod.

[newsgauger]

Hi ariverclown,

Can you get access to those four (4) bolts/nuts, in your picture?

It looks to me that all you plumbing is glued together, rather than slip fit, and if you can remove those bolts/nuts, you should be able to remove the waste tank from the coupler. Of course, you need someone to assist you in removing those bolts/nuts.

If you cannot, I'm afraid it is cutting time.

My thoughts,
Chris

[newsgauger]

TG,

I think you are correct, as the first picture that is posted looks like it was taken from underneath the trailer and the third is one taken from the side of the tank.

ariverclown, you need to get at those brown rusted bolts/nuts shown in your side picture of the tank.

That way you leave all the gray water plumbing in tack.

Chris

[TG Twinkie]

I was looking at your pix on my iPod. Now that I'm on the desktop I think I see how it all fits together. I can see what appears to be the waste valve above the 4 way cross. The white plastic mechanism.
It looks like the valve is sandwiched between a flange on the tank outlet and a flange on the 4 way cross. The waste valve probably has "O" rings or a similar seal on each of it's flanges to seal against the black (ABS) flange on the tank and 4 way cross.
I think if you remove the bolts, it will separate there.

[ariverclown]

Spot on Twinkie it was the top 4 bolts holding everything. And sad to say as I tried to break the bolts down the corners of the plastic began to crumble. Just to much rust and 47 years of use. Actually had to take the Chris's advice and get out the saws all. Now this dither of how to repair / replace the mess of tanks and such. Any site I should look at or a company that would talk me through it before I just go web wondering? It sure helpes to get another opinion and I do appreciate the advice. Heres what I have left.

[TG Twinkie]

Does the flange on the tank screw on? It looks like there is pipe dope on the inside. If so you may be able to unscrew it and save the tank.

[TG Twinkie]

The large fitting with the flanges is called a "Double Sanitary Tee". I could not locate one with flanges. But there is one at Grainger; part # 1WHV4. You may be able to do some engineering and get this to work with a threaded adaptor and a new Thetford Dump Valve.
With any luck the flange adaptor is screwed onto the tank. You may be able to use glued together parts to build an entirely new and usable assembly with a threaded fitting on the tank. It would last for another 40 years.
Good Luck

http://images.grainger.com/B377_39/i...1WHV2_AS01.JPG

[ariverclown]

Thanks Twinkie, I'll look at it on the Granger site. I'll be ripping the floor out next and that will leave me some time in the evenings to do some research and ponder.

[mrcjdunne]

You should check out this restoration blog.

1970 Silver Streak Sabre - Model 20

He has spent the last 2 years fully restoring / rebuilding a 1970 SS Sabre and is a wealth of info. I have emailed him several times with questions re: my 1968 SS Rocket repairs and he has been very helpful.

Regards,
Chris