rivets or screws

[tlava]

Can anyone advise the fastest way to remove and reinstall walls, and what tools/supplies are necessary? I've only done this once with brushed aluminum panels in a small Sero Scotty, and used as I recall stainless steel screws

Thanks!

also, does the "underbelly pan" refer to the metal sheeting under the trailer?

[J. Morgan]

I could have used screws, but riveting went quickly enough.

[PA BAMBI II]

Originally Posted by tlava

Can anyone advise the fastest way to remove and reinstall walls, and what tools/supplies are necessary? I've only done this once with brushed aluminum panels in a small Sero Scotty, and used as I recall stainless steel screws

Thanks!

also, does the "underbelly pan" refer to the metal sheeting under the trailer?

You're going to use rivets- pop, buck, and/or Olympic, anywhere you can on an Airstream. You will need a power drill and 1/8" drill bit to remove old rivets and a pop rivet gun install new ones.

Screws were used on Airstream sparingly, even all the way back the original 1930s Clippers.

I, too, have a Scotty. They are a completely different breed of trailer than an AS...but awesome in their own right.

The belly pan is the aluminum skin under the trailer. It covers the frame and makes the trailer more aerodynamic. I have my belly pan secured as of now with self-tapping screws. I still "drop" mine a lot to gain access to under-floor wiring, etc. Would be a shame to drill out and waste all of those rivets every time.

[tlava]

Thanks! is the use of rivets basically aesthetic, or more practical/faster than screws?
also, would a pneumatic rivet gun or manual be better?
can you advise type to purchase?

[tlava]

Is this an aesthetic consideration, or practical?
can you advise type of rivet gun--manual, pneumatic--and brand? all new to me...
tread moved but not sure why...

Thanks!

[tlava]

also will dropping the belly pan give a good indication of condition of floors,etc?
I did notice a breach in the belly pan--possible place rodents have gotten in (there has been severe rodent infestation--I notice insulation in storage bins under bed. Would rodents drag insulation from walls to bins to build a nest?)

[nrgtrakr]

Rivets vs Screws ...

think aeroplane.

Rivets when done correctly will not loosen on the own. Screws however can.

The skin and ribs inside the walls and ceiling are aluminum. Only stainless screws don't rust, but could still become loose. The rivets are aluminum so no rust, no getting loose (normally).

The few places I've opened up to repair where bucked rivets were used a slight rippling of the metal was evident. Also the butyl tape in the joint was hard (40 year old trailer) but the Vulkem inside was not. Not that I'm likely to be around 40 years from now to compare, but I used Vulkem and Olympic rivets on joints.

Aluminum rivets come in many sizes, different diameters and lengths, as well as large head (useful for buggered holes). I've found using the same size drill bit as the rivet works well for removing old ones.

[nrgtrakr]

Rodents - yes. Seal up any outside openings or put metal screen on them. The PO of mine had three dogs. I've been trapping mice almost every day for the last 6 weeks since we bought it. They likely have a nice pantry somewhere in the walls.

[tlava]

thanks! I have to confess, I haven't done any riveting before (aside from leather work), so don't know the full process--the seams must be taped before riveting?

is a manual rivet tool sufficient, or is a pneumatic one faster/easier?

also, what about possible alternatives? is there a different sort of wall covering that could be slid between ribs? I was considering what it might look like to use the silver foil insulation AS wall covering, hence making it easy to spot future problems, and giving a sort of "industrial" look? of course, nothing could be attached to the wall itself in that case, though secured to ribs I suppose...

[nrgtrakr]

Originally Posted by tlava

thanks! I have to confess, I haven't done any riveting before (aside from leather work), so don't know the full process--the seams must be taped before riveting?

is a manual rivet tool sufficient, or is a pneumatic one faster/easier? ...

Hopefully others will reply as there is always more than one way to do things.

I don't have a lot of experience at this in particular, but lots of general experience.

When I replaced a window recently I noted a few things while taking it apart. The inside was slathered in Vulkem (a caulk that never really dries except on the surface). The butyl tape used in the overlap was no longer soft. The rivets were bucked. The metal was slightly wavey presumably from the bucking process.

Re-assembly with Vulkem in the overlap, Olympic rivets, and slathered on the inside as found.

I use a manual rivet tool as sometimes with power tools there is less "feel" for what you are doing.

I never worked much with riveting metal in the past, but like most things, if you're good at handy work, the more you do the better you get.

[CaddyGrn]

I would check on the idea of using screws before trying them out.... seems to me that mixing metals like stainless and aluminum can bring corrosion problems...

[bikeukeguy]

If you are going to start riveting, I wold suggest going to Vintage Trailer Supply. Find the bulk rivet section. They put together a short PDFS on Buck riveting. This shows tools and techniques. To repair exterior panels, you will need a Air Rivet gun and a bucking bar. You will need to remove some interior panels to use the bucking bar. DO NOT use Olympics or Pop Rivets for this. Belly pan, interior panels, use Blind rivets. A hand rivet tool or air your choice. There is a 3rd rivet Tool I got was a Rivet Squeezer. This is for edge located rivets.
When attached I will be apply a sealant to the interior seams and also covering the rivet heads.
You will need a helper when buck riveting.
You need to see how the exterior panels and interior panels are riveted to a C shaped rib. Seriously strong. If you want wood apply it to the inner aluminum panels. They are a major player in keeping it strong.
I never did any buck riveting before 2 days ago and I will be replacing about 70% of the exterior panels when complete.
Good luck...

[aquinob]

For most of your interior trim, aluminum pop rivets are fine. Pop rivets are blind rivets meaning you can only get access to one side, unlike buck rivets where you need to be on the front and the back.

A pneumatic rivet gun is a godsend if you have more than 4 or 5 rivets to pop. In the three years I've been working on my trailer I've probably popped several hundred. For aluminum trim and panels, use aluminum rivets. You can buy assortments of 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 rivets from harbor freight for pretty cheap. You can spend much more by buying them online from specialty sellers like VTS, but they probably wont do any better than the HF versions. You can also pick up one of their riveters there as well for around 50 bucks.

Patching the roof with the HF riveter:

[tlava]

Thanks again! BTW, can anyone compare the structure of a Silver Streak V Airstream V Argosy? I've read that the SS has an extra frame member--though of course that makes the trailer heavier I guess. Are Argosy's and Airstreams basically the same structure, just one painted?

So the interior walls play a role in strengthening the structure? interesting...

a SS I was considering apparently has wood veneer walls? does that sound right?

[dwightdi]

Pop rivets do not loosen as much with road vibration as metal or self tap screws. Rivets will show black around them when subject to excessive shear force. Airstream interiors are attached with pop rivets. Loose rivets should be replaced. Interior walls do little to strengthen the structure. Wood interiors do not add to the strength. Wood has a very low modulus and little structural strength, by comparison to Aluminum. Wood also contracts and expands much more than aluminium due to heat or moisture. Spartan Mansions have beautiful maple interiors, but it does not add strength.