New old Travelux 31’ restoration in the UK

[Dickitee]

I removed the aerial, the AC and the roof lights.

That A.C. must have weighed over 40kgs!!!

So much gunk...

[Dickitee]

I used a multitool with silicone remover blade - probably a bit too aggressive but it did take the top layer of gunk off. This is probably too risky to use for the whole roof though - it is a metal blade.

I then tried using a gel-based paint stripper. This seemed to work to a degree. However, this would require numerous applications.

This is very slow going.

I think the best idea is to mix up some thinners with some thickening agent (carboxy-methyl cellulose - a metalworking friend suggested this) to make a paste, then leave it on for some number of hours, so that it really gets into the gunk. Then to scrape with a plastic scraper.

[Dickitee]

In hindsight, I'm not sure there was a huge amount of logic behind taking this off at this point. However, it's done now.

The insulation was in remarkably good shape, considering how leaky the roof was when I was staying in it.

[Dickitee]

So I thought I'd take some of the floor up.

It seems the original floor had completely rotten away over the years and had been replaced (very poorly) in a very piecemeal fashion.

The upshot of this was that almost none of the floor was extending underneath the shell any more.

Therefore, major rear-end-separation.

I managed to get the old gray/black tank out, but I had to cut it out of the belly pan. All the bolts had rusted around the old sewage connection and there was no way to remove it nicely.

The sub-floor insulation was a total mess.

It looks like there was layers of it sandwiched in between the frame and the floor. This had gotten damp and caused the frame to rust.

Upon examination, sizeable slices of rusted steel have come off the frame. I would expect the members to be rusted inside as well as out. While I was hoping for a shell-on restoration, this is looking to be increasingly impossible.

I am even thinking that the frame may need to be completely scrapped and duplicated.

This is very daunting. I have no idea how much such a thing would be to fabricate in this country, but I'm imagining in the region of £5k.

So whether to get myself along to some welding and fabricating courses, teach myself enough to take a crack at it, with some assistance from a professional welder?

This guy makes it sound and look easy, but I know it's a major undertaking.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f36...in-210854.html



Regardless, I have another problem in my way:

Given what needs doing, the workshop space I have is no longer going to be big enough.

SO I need to look around for another space to put this in to work. And that's going to COST. Probably in the region of £6k-8k per annum.

If I get a big enough space I can do a full frame off resto.

What do people think about the likelihood of me being able to put together a new frame with no previous experience in metal work?

That's all for now.

I'll keep you posted about what happens next.

[Ganaraska]

As you can see the chassis frame is quite strongly built. Suggest you remove the belly pan for better access while replacing floor, plumbing etc and repairing the frame. Unless the frame is rusted through it should be ok to clean off loose rust with a wire wheel in a drill or grinder and paint with rust proof paint like POR 15, Tremclad, Rustoleum, or whatever brand is available where you are. In the case of severely rusted areas it is possible to cut out the bad parts and weld in new metal, or reinforce with steel plates bolted or screwed on. You might want to consult a welder or truck or car repair person who is familiar with such work. In any case try to use the same kind and thickness of metal as they used originally. I believe the frames were made of standard size rectangular or square tubing, whether the same size and type is available in England as in North America is another question.



I think the Travelux body rests on the frame and the floor can be replaced without taking up the body but you will have to use your own judgement on this.


As far as the body damage goes, recently I read of a new method of pulling dents out of auto body panels using a glued on device. It is a type of paintless dent removal. 2 big advantages for us, the glue works on aluminum and you don't need access to the back of the panel, which saves removing the inner skin. Here is what I mean, this video I chose more or less at random, I do not know anything about this person or his products.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvhG2h2bRTM

You might get an expert to repair your dents, if you want to have a go yourself you can remove large dents little by little, working around the edge and removing the dent in reverse order to how it was put in. Take your time, if you get carried away you can make things worse instead of better.


I am impressed with the amount of work you have done so far. These jobs always take longer than we expect and cost more money. You will win in the end and have something you can be proud of and enjoy for many years.

[mrfixit51]

Hi what year is your trailer? I am another vintage nut, with a super case of aluminitis. Purchased my 1971 Travelux, 23 tandem axle,in sept 2013 and am still working on it, today. You will never be done. I use it as a summer pastime,in between some camping runs, just to check my systems and how to improve. It beats gambling and what are the other vices? lol Everything in our trailers can be traced to some other more popular brands of aluminum trailers stateside, of that era. You really have to know what you want and who manufactured it. I chose a Travelux because it was a Canadian build. i didn't do a frame off but it was close. I to have many pics of my progress. Keep me posted on your progress