Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-19-2010, 11:56 AM   #21
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Dec 19, 2010 Update!

Well, it has been a while since I have updated this thread. i have done a lot of camping and totally enjoy the trailer. It is awesome!

The curtains were driving me nuts because they had deteriorated so much from the cleaning and with all the rubber backing peeling they looked splotchy when ever thay were closed.

So I set about makng new ones and learned to sew in the process.

The camper has the extruded aluminum track rods with the roller sliders and hooks in the curtains. That is a really nice system as the curtains slide effortlessly. I bought new rollers as their plastic wheels were brittle from the sun. I bought K-mart premade curtains that have the same rubber thermal backing. I had to buy the entire inventory of two stores just to get exactly enough. The 63" long panels would make two when cut to length and the 84" long panels would make three except for the Rt side picture window which is taller.

The very front curved windows and the flat front windows and the adjoining side windows all come together. The track rod is continueous for about 16 feet all around. My camper has the wide rear window which took 3 panels. All in all 18 panels to do the camper. A lot more than I would have thought.

I honestly have at least 60 - 80 hours in these things! But I am happy with the result and save a lot of money.

As far as the blue velvet valences shown in my pictures They are original and will be replaced with wood. I'm going to wait until spring to get to them.

Now I have started re-working the rear bedroom due to rotted subfloor. I hope to have a whole new layout installed by early Spring. Here are the curtains:

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2505.jpg
Views:	197
Size:	325.5 KB
ID:	117291

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2506.jpg
Views:	213
Size:	366.8 KB
ID:	117292

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2507.jpg
Views:	230
Size:	339.3 KB
ID:	117293

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2509.jpg
Views:	209
Size:	332.9 KB
ID:	117294
__________________

ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 12:04 PM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Some more interior pics. It is emptied out for the winter. These were taken after I bought it and cleaned it.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2399.jpg
Views:	201
Size:	265.2 KB
ID:	117295

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2400.jpg
Views:	492
Size:	278.6 KB
ID:	117296
__________________

ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 08:51 PM   #23
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Some Warmer Weather Time to Get Started.

Focusing on the rear now. The subfloor was rotted in places mostly along the outside. My plan is to cut out what is bad, replace and build a new interior. I'm going to be putting aluminum skin on the walls and possibly a bamboo floor although I'm not sure. Here are some pics!
Rotted wall panelling. All due to an awning bracket leaking! (Not me, former owner!) Fixed now.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2284.jpg
Views:	337
Size:	340.2 KB
ID:	123838
Floor so rotted I could push through it with my hand!
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2530.jpg
Views:	231
Size:	361.4 KB
ID:	123839
Rear Queen pedestal layout. Those little nightstand cabinets were the only rear storage except for the overhead compartments. All the space under the bed and beside the hot water heater was not accessable. My layout will have a lot of storage.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2475.jpg
Views:	363
Size:	377.5 KB
ID:	123840

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2518.jpg
Views:	367
Size:	383.1 KB
ID:	123841
Rear paneling, insulation and flooring mostly out. One more section remains to come out.
Click image for larger version

Name:	GOPR0055.jpg
Views:	192
Size:	299.1 KB
ID:	123842

Click image for larger version

Name:	GOPR0050.jpg
Views:	193
Size:	289.7 KB
ID:	123843
Hot water heater removed, temp patch on exterior, converter.
Click image for larger version

Name:	GOPR0053.jpg
Views:	274
Size:	300.2 KB
ID:	123844
Next I am going to do some wiring rough in to locate new outlets, lights, and cable tv jacks. I will be using 0.040" aluminum sheet for the walls. It will have a shiny brushed mill finish. It comes in 4 x 10 sheets. I'm planning on covering the walls, riviting it in place then cutting the openings for the windows, switches, and outlets. any suggestions or procedures for that? I bought some electric nibblers to cut the sheet aluminum.
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 07:00 PM   #24
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
Images: 1
Good pics, and nice progress. What shape was the wall insulation in where the awning mount leaked? Separated and clumped? How do the frame and stringers appear after the damp?
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 07:36 PM   #25
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Hi Ross,

Insulation on the leaky sidewall was sagging a little and discolored. Not as bad as I would have expected. Cheap enough to replace though. The floor insulation was run over the steel and the subfloor screwed down on top of the insulation. Although highly compressed between the subfloor and steel I think this creates an area to wick water. I might use the same insulation or I might make styrofoam panels for the floor. I'm going to use the "Great Stuff" expanding foam liberally too!

The main frame rails are 2" x 5" x 1/4" wall box tube which is pretty hefty and they showed little signs of wear other than light surface rust. The cross members are c channel made from bending sheet stock and are pretty light to begin with. They had heavier rust scale but are totally servicable as is. Some of the cross memebers have additional c channel welded to them where the belly pan attaches. The belly pan is in great shape. There is little reinforcing where the stabilizers mount on the cross members. What they say about not using the stabilizing jacks to take weight or lift the trailer is good advice!

What was interesting in the disassembly is that all of the heavy wall dividers that appear to be 3/4 thick plywood with veneer are actually panneling with an air space in the middle. Silver Streak was very consciencous about weight.

Also, the subfloor does sit under the aluminum footers that run on the perimeter of the floor and provide the spacing for the inside and outside wall sheeting.

This is how the trailer was built:

Weld the steel frame and paint

Lay the subfloor side to side and end to end

Lay the aluminum c channel track edge up all around the perimeter running fastners through it and the floor and, where over the stringers through them too.

Fold the edge of the exterior curved aluminum over the c channel and make the curve section that transitions from the side to the underbelly. (the lower black piece on my trailer)

Install the aluminum vertical and horizontal studs.

Pull all wiring

Install the exterior skin and interior aluminum (roof and interior top curved sides.)

Install the interior wood wall panel walls, the flat portion of the walls.

Build out the entire interior. All cabinets and shelves are built in place piece by piece.

Everything can be disassembled but it is like a big puzzle sometimes trying to figure out the order of disassembly. Not bad though, pretty accessible with standard tools.

If anyone wants photos of anything in particular let me know. I believe this 1985 trailer is the very last year for the gold sided trailers and this one was built in Sept of 1985.
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2011, 07:27 PM   #26
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
Images: 1
Thanks for the description of damage. Not so bad as it might have been. Pleased to know that.

(Very good description of construction; a regular WIKI on SS!)II too was pleased that in removing the bathroom to replace the floor that R&R was as simple as a puzzle.

The 1986 and later trailers are quite different, at least what I've seen. Here are some web album shots of an '86 for sale in mid-2010. The interior is much the same as from early 1980's on, but the exterior construction is such that it appears to be a different trailer.

Have twice seen a two-door late '80's SS with onboard generator built for a disabled customer. The ad never lasts more than 1-2 days.

.
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2011, 09:00 PM   #27
2 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Cypress , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 30
ETN550,

I just found this thread on the SS. We had the 1979 SS Supreme rocket that was my In-Laws. We found a beauty of a 1989 Avion 34V and sold the SS. I t was in great shape and these old trailers were built like a tank compared to todays junk.

We hated to see the SS leave, but we needed more room. The SS was strictly a 2 person trailer, plus we had 2 schnauzers and a parrot to travel with us.

The Avion is another well built silver beauty. Our approach on the Avion has been to make it functional and not worry so much about original.

You are doing a great job on the SS.

Ken
1989 Avion 34V
TXiceman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 01:11 PM   #28
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Thanks,

I have been pretty busy and will have some more pictures to load shortly.

The Avions are real nice too. Very well built. I like the 30 footer Avions.

I'm going to be working aggressively on my trailer in the next 2 months to get the rear bedroom done.
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 10:14 PM   #29
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Rewiring

While I had the interior walls off i did some rewiring. I added some lamp circuits and cable tv jack locations.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2550.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	249.8 KB
ID:	128738

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2555.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	288.0 KB
ID:	128739
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 10:28 PM   #30
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Isolated Rear Stabilizer Jack Screws

This is one of those little projects that gets done because it just needs to be better than it is.

Situation: On this 1985 trailer with the fiberglass lower corner pieces there are holes in the bodywork that access the jack screw for the rear stabilizers. These exterior holes are a great home for rodents and wasp nests as I found out

Exterior views of the way it was:
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2568.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	436.9 KB
ID:	128740

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2569.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	400.9 KB
ID:	128741

View of the large interior area under the subfloor after i cleaned it out. There was fiberglass batt insulation torn loose from rodents. The insulation was about 3 inches but the space is about 8 inches deep.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2563.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	323.4 KB
ID:	128742

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2564.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	293.4 KB
ID:	128743

I enlarged the exterior holes in the fiberglass and inserted aluminum tubes I cut to length. Then I sprayed Great Stuff foam around the tubes to seal everything and support the tubes.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2594.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	345.7 KB
ID:	128744

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2601.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	337.4 KB
ID:	128745

Now the hole is limited to the jack screw and has little space for anything else and can be cleaned out if needed from the outside. I still need to trim the tubes flush and will do this when I prep the lower corners for paint shortly.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2603.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	429.9 KB
ID:	128746

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2604.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	301.3 KB
ID:	128747
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 10:46 PM   #31
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Insulating the Floor and Walls

I replaced the fiberglass batt with rigid styrofoam insulation. This was a really fun job and went real fast and real easy and great results. I used two types of foam insulation. 2 inch and 3/4 inch. In my pics the white board is the 2 inch and the green board is the 3/4 inch. For the floor and areas where there was no wiring the 2 inch was used. For the wall sections where there was wiring I used a 3/4 panel between the outer wall and the wires and then another 3/4 panel between the wires and the inner wall. This allows for a 1/2 inch gap in the middle of the wall for the wires to run. I used 3 inch drywall screws to hold the 1/2 inch gap between the foam panels by screwing the screws in while holding the spacing on the panels. The panes have gaps around their perimeter where the great stuff foam is sprayed in to form a bond and virtually airtight seal. After the Great Stuff set up and finished expanding and got hard it was easily trimmed with a steak knife, flush with the Aluminum wall studs.

Panels cut to size
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2592.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	327.8 KB
ID:	128748

Foam in with drywall screws temporarily holding the panels in place
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2594.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	345.7 KB
ID:	128749

Green board showing the temporary drywall screws used to maintain the spacing between the panels.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2627.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	331.1 KB
ID:	128750

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2607.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	329.5 KB
ID:	128751

Foam applied.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2609.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	283.6 KB
ID:	128752

Foam fully set up.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2613.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	304.6 KB
ID:	128753

Easy trim flush with a steak knife.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2619.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	340.8 KB
ID:	128754

Trimmed with steak knife and showing new fiberglass batt used in the corner due to all the cables and wire.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2621.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	308.2 KB
ID:	128755
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 10:58 PM   #32
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Don't use 3003 Aluminum Unless it is Polished!

I bought some 0.040" 3000 series aluminum sheet to use as the interior wall panels. Well, it came mill finish in 4 x 10 sheets and was fairly shiney. Too shiney and it scratched very very easily. I was sold this alloy because the sales guy said anythng harder would not bend or fabricate easily.

So after installing one panel in the bedroom I realized it was not going to work as it was too shiney and was scratched from handling it during inatallation.

so I bought some industrial aluminum brightner to turn it white and take the shine off of it. I reasoned this would also hide scratches. After putting on full chemical suit, goggles, face shield, and double neoprene cuff length gloves I carefully washed several panels and was pleased with the results. However, Hydroflouric acid is too scarey for me.

I mounted the acid washed panel and to my amazement instead of scratching it became polished from handling. I could literally shine it up by rubbing my fingers on it.

So off it came and expensive lesson learned and time wasted.

Back to square one.

Low an behold I found some 5005 Anodized sheet out of Orlando! I ordered 10 sheets of 4 x 10ft and waited for it to arrive.

And here it is!

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2639.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	274.0 KB
ID:	128756
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 11:08 PM   #33
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Sliding Door Latch

While I was waiting for my 5005 Anodized to arrive I fixed another problem. The sliding bath door was held open only by a plastic stud and grommet arrangement. It would not stay open so when I pulled the trailer and accelerated and braked the door would open and close violently. This action destroyed the stops and tore the door off of its hangers.

So I made a latch out of a stainless baggage door catch and flush mounted it in the door. I make a hefty catch out of some angle.

And yes you see it riveted to wood paneling. I did some experiments and the 3/16 aluminum rivet has excellent holding power in the wood. this revelation leads to a whole bunch of riveteting to wood which will be shown next. I like the look of the aluminum and the wood.

Here's the latch I made:
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2632.jpg
Views:	95
Size:	280.3 KB
ID:	128757

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2633.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	246.7 KB
ID:	128758

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2634.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	263.8 KB
ID:	128759
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2011, 09:21 AM   #34
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
Images: 1
I especially like the stabilizer enclosures. And, we (wife and I) like the look of the new latch (interior rivet work). Thanks for the haz-mat testing. Glad the insulation job has gone smoothly. Can't remember the what the sub-flooring will be: Marine-grade. Advantech? Other?
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2011, 09:51 PM   #35
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Interior Walls Go Back In

Here are some pics of how I put the walls back. One thing to note is that since I did not take the shell off the frame I had to restore the structural integrity of tieing the shell to the frame. Since the subfloor is sandwiched between the c channel that holds the shell and the frame and the subfloor is rotted then the structure must be tied together. Cutting out the subfloor leaves only a rotted strip of subfloor under the c channel to support the shell. I believe my solution solves three problems at once. 1) By not having to do a shell off subfloor I can now do sections at a time. This year I am doing the rear, next year the front, then the middle, all while being able to take a break and use the camper. 2) My interior siding panels (for the most part) are lapped like shingles on a roof so any leakage ending up inside the walls cannot escape. 3) The walls now extend below the subfloor so water cannot get on the subfloor.

I used aluminum angle to create the structural support for the wall to frame and now the subfloor takes no part in supporting the walls.

These nibblers worked great to cut the aluminum
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2644.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	199.2 KB
ID:	129060

I used chalk lines and reference marks on tape to locate the beams behind the panels. this proved to work well as I did not miss any of the beams when riveting the wall panels.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2645.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	190.3 KB
ID:	129061

I riveted the aluminum to the wall and then cut out the window openings. the nibblers went right up to the edge flush. Corners were a little tricky but all in all each window took maybe 15 - 20 minutes to cut in.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2651.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	211.2 KB
ID:	129062

Showing how the walls extend below the subfloor. BTW subfloor had to be 19/32 to match the existing that was not removed so my choices were limited. I used a fir plywood sanded both sides and primed and painted it all over.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2652.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	185.6 KB
ID:	129063

Showing wall lap for drainage and aluminum angle used for wall to frame support.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2660.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	199.1 KB
ID:	129064

Showing subfloor undercut to match the thickness of the angle.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2661.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	146.5 KB
ID:	129065

All walls done! The curves were extremely tricky due to the rear wall being angled from vertical.
Click image for larger version

Name:	GOPR0099.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	254.9 KB
ID:	129066
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2011, 10:05 PM   #36
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Cutting a Hole in a Wall

I'm almost caught up with my documentation. Here is an interesting project that I am pleased with the results. My camper did not get good A/C to the rear due to the center bath narrow hall, and wall separating the rear room from the rest. Across from the bath is a nice dresser arrangement but it is walled on both sides. I decided to open it up to get better airflow and make the space seem bigger. I will put blinds or shutters over the hole to allow for eithr open or shut.

Dresser before with wall separating bedroom on right.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2454.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	203.6 KB
ID:	129067

Rear bedroom looking forward from the trunk space. Subject wall is on the right side.
Click image for larger version

Name:	GOPR0081.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	288.5 KB
ID:	129068

Cut out the hole. The wall is two layers of panneling separated by pine wood spacers all glued together. Light and strong but weaker when cut.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2665.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	315.1 KB
ID:	129069

Framed in with aluminum on the dresser side.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2664.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	254.7 KB
ID:	129070

Finished framed on the bedroom side.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2676.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	234.3 KB
ID:	129071

Opposite side wall in the bedroom laminated aluminum over existing paneling.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN2672.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	241.3 KB
ID:	129072
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2011, 10:13 PM   #37
2 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Knoxville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 42
Question Question on Flooring Stapler

After some research I have settled on thin 5/16 inch thick x 2-1/4 inch wide solid teak flooring. This flooring needs to be put down with an 18 gage flooring stapler. The Bynford $79 chinese made stapler is the choice and gets good reviews but is not available anywhere at the moment. Next best price is a commercial Bostich or equal for $170 or better.

Any leads on what is my best stapler option at this time? I prefer to buy versus rent the stapler as I am only doing the rear now but have enough flooring to do the whole camper in stages.

Why teak? For me because it looks good, wears well, good water resistance, does not change dimension much with moisture, 5/16 is thin and does not add too much weight or detract from the height. Should be about the same as the carpet and pad. Not a bad thing that Lumber Liquidators sold it to me for $1.59 per sqft either

I'm thinking of laying it at a 45 angle.
ETN550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2011, 10:45 PM   #38
2 Rivet Member
 
chowman2011's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Leadville(for now) , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 82
Blog Entries: 3
I have thoroughly appreciated your posts!! I have a '77 SS Supreme Rocket Continental 2800(I believe)...28' would include the hitch length.
Anywho--working on some restoration and getting it functional again...Your Electrical in VERY Interesting to Me!

Cureently working on the interior and getting major systems back online...More to Come....and I HAVE MANY inquiries as to ensuring a reliable/pleasurable and long term enjoyment with this Silver Lady!

Great Work--and I look forward to My Part here and Everyone in the Realm of Silver(Tin) Travel Trailers!!
Cheers!!
chowman2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2011, 10:55 PM   #39
2 Rivet Member
 
chowman2011's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Leadville(for now) , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 82
Blog Entries: 3
Very Nice Work!! I am fortunate...No need to re-do these aspects at this time--YET, tear out and replacement can be quicker in some cases...I choose the 'refurbish' approach to the front living area and kitchen--FOR NOW....Yet still have the Major Appliances and Some Extior Maintenance to do....
chowman2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2011, 09:57 AM   #40
2 Rivet Member
 
chowman2011's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Leadville(for now) , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 82
Blog Entries: 3
'77 SIlver Streak "refurbish"

Here are some initial pictures of the front area and kitchen "refurbish".
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF2348.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	188.7 KB
ID:	129443

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF2349.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	205.5 KB
ID:	129444
__________________

chowman2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Silver Streak project SilverHoot Vintage Kin 37 05-08-2011 11:22 PM
silver streak mickeymoose Vintage Kin 6 05-09-2009 11:57 AM
Silver streak Pepsi Vintage Kin 23 03-10-2008 08:49 PM
Silver Streak - Need Your Thoughts mwinter Vintage Kin 52 03-03-2008 11:59 AM
Silver Streak Ultradog Vintage Kin 3 12-31-2006 01:12 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.