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xrvr · 02-03-2011, 02:48 PM

Since you have to raise the camper to clear the cab, maybe that space could be used fot things like the sewer hose, electric cord etc. zz

jforb · 02-03-2011, 02:51 PM

It might, except it's pretty much impossible to get to the area under the camper, once the camper is installed. But having it raised up does let me get to the bed next to the camper, to put those things in there between the camper and bed side.

Jammer · 02-03-2011, 03:20 PM

Are those ASME propane tanks? Most of the C-10/C-11 photos I've seen show vertical 11# tanks. Whatever those are, they're certainly usual.

Jammer · 02-03-2011, 03:22 PM

3EE batteries are readily available at reasonable prices, though you might not be able to get them at Walmart.

jforb · 02-03-2011, 03:37 PM

Half again as much as a normal 24 or 27 series battery, plus shipping, is expensive for me. Besides, the neat molded Avion battery box apparently leaks, so I'm going to make a wood box with a plastic tub (also available at Walmart) to replace it. It will be a bit of a tight squeeze, but should all fit. I'll seal and vent the new box, of course.

The tanks are ASME, made in 1968, by Manchester. Each is 20 lbs. They are an odd size, I'll see if I can get the new valves installed in them. From what I've seen, the C10 campers have tall slender tanks stored at the rear curbside lower corner of the camper. C11s have these horizontal tanks, stored on the front streetside above the wing, below the kitchen counter.

ticki2 · 02-03-2011, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jforb

The problem is I started looking closer, and taking things apart, and found all the interesting problems.

First off, I don't like the floor plan. The original design has a dinette that has a wall going halfway across the main part of the camper floor, and a seat that sticks out from the wall. There is also a raised floor under the table. I would like the camper to be more open inside. So I took out the cabinet and raised floor, and discovered that the yellow floor covering was installed on top of 1/2" plywood, which was screwed and glued over the original sheet vinyl flooring.

Since I wanted the floor to be open, it needs to be at one level, so I either had to remove the plywood, or add more plywood. I want to keep the weight down as low as possible, so I decided to remove the added plywood.

Of course after I did that, I discovered why the plywood was added (no big surprise here)...there was a rotted place in the original floor, in front of the stove. I decided to remove the floor back to where it was solid.

This ended up being about 7 feet back from the front of the camper. I bought a piece of 1/4" BC plywood, and cut it to fit, and glued and stapled it in place

I then removed the rear cabinet, bathroom wall with the door, and the shelf unit that was installed where the heater used to be. This let me remove the remaining original vinyl from the floor. That was a fun task itself, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue, and a chisel to scrape the glue off. I found some new vinyl at a local building supply (Sutherland's), it is similar in color to the original, and does not have those pesky fake grout lines that most modern vinyl has.

I decided to leave the flooring "floating", rather than glue it down. I expect that I or someone else will want to redo this thing sometime in the not too distant future, and I want to make it easier to work on. Whoever did the last remodel used a couple tubes of liquid nails, and it is a real pain to work on stuff that has been glued together that way. The original construction used just enough fasteners and adhesive to do the job, and I think that's what should be done. I used floor adhesive around the perimeter of the rear closet, and staples around the rest of the floor. We'll see how it works out.

jforb , getting right into it are we , before you go too far check the seating height with the cushions , I think that was the reason for the platform under the table . My layout for the water tank and battery box is different than yours . I'll try to get some pics up tonight .

bugnot1 · 02-03-2011, 04:04 PM

I LOVE the C11s - great great toy!!!!!

Jan

jforb · 02-03-2011, 04:23 PM

The seating height will be a bit funky, although the cushions are pretty thick--I was planning on making thinner ones for the seating area. The way campers have to be built to fit the truck makes it kind of hard to get everything really nicely configured for all the intended uses.

There were two floor plans available, the dinette and the Gaucho. Mine is the dinette. It is designed to turn into a bed, but my planned use for the camper does not require two full size beds--if anyone else is sleeping in it besides my gal, they can sleep on the floor!

I sure could use more pictures of how the campers were made originally. I am not going to restore it all as it was, but it's helpful to know what they had in mind when it was built.

I also need help figuring out the kitchen cabinet and counter support. I think the counter top rested on the cabinet, I see where it was attached to the cabinet face, but I'm not sure about the edge along the wall. I think it was just resting on the four vertical walls in the cabinet (on either side of the stove, and either side of the drawers), and on a block screwed into the wall above the water heater.

nmbosa · 02-03-2011, 05:03 PM

This is a great new thread. You are doing a nice job documenting your work. Please keep up the regular posts. Unfortunately, now I want to go find one of these.

ticki2 · 02-03-2011, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jforb

The seating height will be a bit funky, although the cushions are pretty thick--I was planning on making thinner ones for the seating area. The way campers have to be built to fit the truck makes it kind of hard to get everything really nicely configured for all the intended uses.

There were two floor plans available, the dinette and the Gaucho. Mine is the dinette. It is designed to turn into a bed, but my planned use for the camper does not require two full size beds--if anyone else is sleeping in it besides my gal, they can sleep on the floor!

I sure could use more pictures of how the campers were made originally. I am not going to restore it all as it was, but it's helpful to know what they had in mind when it was built.

I also need help figuring out the kitchen cabinet and counter support. I think the counter top rested on the cabinet, I see where it was attached to the cabinet face, but I'm not sure about the edge along the wall. I think it was just resting on the four vertical walls in the cabinet (on either side of the stove, and either side of the drawers), and on a block screwed into the wall above the water heater.

Your questions are coming faster than I can remember them , I'm an old man. Anyway here goes .

here are some pics of the water tank and battery box , first the old then the new . Note the WT is SS , somewhere all the line it was changed I'm sure , don't know why as I am only the 2nd owner .

ticki2 · 02-03-2011, 06:46 PM

forb

In the last post the last pic is of the old battery box , the new one is SS and 2 group 24 ( from wallyworld )

Next are the cabinets and counter top . You'll notice there is a cleat along the back wall to support the counter top . On the left side of the propane box the draw cabinet serves as the support . Don't believe screws through the outside was ever done .

ticki2 · 02-03-2011, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jforb

Half again as much as a normal 24 or 27 series battery, plus shipping, is expensive for me. Besides, the neat molded Avion battery box apparently leaks, so I'm going to make a wood box with a plastic tub (also available at Walmart) to replace it. It will be a bit of a tight squeeze, but should all fit. I'll seal and vent the new box, of course.

The tanks are ASME, made in 1968, by Manchester. Each is 20 lbs. They are an odd size, I'll see if I can get the new valves installed in them. From what I've seen, the C10 campers have tall slender tanks stored at the rear curbside lower corner of the camper. C11s have these horizontal tanks, stored on the front streetside above the wing, below the kitchen counter.

I have the same tanks . From what I have read so far in the NFPA regs there are presently no OPD valve available built prior to 1998 and are therefore exempt from the regulation . I have emailed my state firemarshal for a clarification but have not yet received a reply . Perhaps you could do the same and we could compare notes .

jforb · 02-03-2011, 07:50 PM

Thanks for the pictures, it's starting to make more sense how it was originally built. I think your battery and water tank layout was original, mine has been modified with the addition of a larger tank, and the divider was moved back. There are some clues on mine that it was like yours previously. I'll still do what I was planning to do, but now I know how it was originally built. The counter cleat pictures are very helpful too. Mine had that nice aluminum corner bead around the back of the counter top, but it was glued in so strongly that I had to destroy it to remove it.

Mine has another interesting problem, the wing on the kitchen side is angled a bit. It's about 5/8" lower at the outer edge compared to the inner edge. And the whole camper looks like it might have been made that way, although I'd find that hard to believe. I just can't see anything that obviously moved around.

Another interesting thing--you have the same Holiday oven that I have, and your cabinet was also cut at the top of the face, like mine was. My guess is they made the cabinet to work with a drop in cooktop, but modified it to fit the oven at the factory.

Interesting about the grandfather clause on the tanks, I'll have to do some research. My guess is that it would be difficult to get the tanks refilled if it takes legal research on the part of the filling station to make sure they can do it! I might see about just getting a smaller single tank, perhaps an 11 lb unit, and mount it securely. Since my heater is missing, and I'm planning to install an icebox to replace the 2 way fridge, I won't need 40 lbs of propane.

Thanks again for the pictures. I have a lot more pictures I haven't posted, and can easily take more, if you or anyone else wants to see something just let me know!

nmbosa · 02-03-2011, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jforb

Interesting about the grandfather clause on the tanks, I'll have to do some research. My guess is that it would be difficult to get the tanks refilled if it takes legal research on the part of the filling station to make sure they can do it! I might see about just getting a smaller single tank, perhaps an 11 lb unit, and mount it securely. Since my heater is missing, and I'm planning to install an icebox to replace the 2 way fridge, I won't need 40 lbs of propane.

Those tanks are cool. I hope you can find a way to get them fitted with new valves and use them. Unfortunately, I think you are right about the difficulty of getting them refilled. I believe the requirement for the newer style valves is a Federal DOT regulation Transportation of propane is regulated by Federal law (related to the safety of travel on interstate highways etc.). So regardless of more lenient State laws in some areas, most refill stations are going to opt to comply with the stricter Fed laws to protect their bottom line (read = liability).

Norm

jforb · 02-03-2011, 08:35 PM

I did find online that Manchester makes a new 20 lb horizontal tank that I can fit into the compartment. It would have to be removed for filling, then secured into the camper horizontally for use. Only one would fit in the compartment, as they are larger diameter. And it costs close to $200.

ticki2 · 02-04-2011, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nmbosa

Those tanks are cool. I hope you can find a way to get them fitted with new valves and use them. Unfortunately, I think you are right about the difficulty of getting them refilled. I believe the requirement for the newer style valves is a Federal DOT regulation Transportation of propane is regulated by Federal law (related to the safety of travel on interstate highways etc.). So regardless of more lenient State laws in some areas, most refill stations are going to opt to comply with the stricter Fed laws to protect their bottom line (read = liability).

Norm

The NFPA is federal . The confusion comes from the type of tank . The DOT requirement for OPD valves is for propane cylinders ( most common ) and not for ASME tanks which are much heavier . When I mentioned State Firemasrshal it was not for state regulation but interpertation of federal regulation ( NFPA ) .

ticki2 · 02-04-2011, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jforb

I did find online that Manchester makes a new 20 lb horizontal tank that I can fit into the compartment. It would have to be removed for filling, then secured into the camper horizontally for use. Only one would fit in the compartment, as they are larger diameter. And it costs close to $200.

This is why I mentioned the tanks , they are an odd size . If you are going to go with new tank or tanks this would be the time to replace the propane box with the size you will need.

Lance M · 02-04-2011, 07:32 AM

Wow! Great work! Keep it coming!

jforb · 02-04-2011, 08:44 AM

Thanks!

I think it's an ASME tank, isn't the funky shaped stamp at the lower right corner indicate that? or does it need to say ASME somewhere?

Jammer · 02-04-2011, 09:56 AM

Looks like an ASME label to me.

The valve arrangement is unusual. Every other ASME tank I've seen has an acme threaded fill valve and a float gauge.

You could retrofit something like this. It's set up for 100 pound cylinders but the dip tube could be trimmed to match the 80% level for your tanks:

100-lb. Propane Tank Multi-Valve