|
|
07-30-2008, 10:11 AM
|
#241
|
Rivet Master
1975 29' Ambassador
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 517
|
Kip, when replacing a panel such as this how do you determine where to drill the new rivet holes in the panel? I assume you using the old panel and/or the window frame as a template? Yes?
__________________
Todd
“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
- Captain Jack Sparrow
|
|
|
07-30-2008, 12:11 PM
|
#242
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by monocoque
Kip, when replacing a panel such as this how do you determine where to drill the new rivet holes in the panel? I assume you using the old panel and/or the window frame as a template? Yes?
|
Yes, kinda, on this panel it was split at the top for the window at the points that I decided to splice it to the existing panel, which was not diminishable stable, so I picked up the forward most holes from the old panel and then then clecoed the sheet up and picked up the aft holes from the fuselage. After all the existing perimeter holes were picked up from the trailer I then overlayed the old skin to transfer the window cutouts and a few of the window holes to locate the windows in the stock position. After that it was just a simple matter of using the windows to drill the rest of the holes, stepping them up to a #21 and shooting every thing together wet with sealent. I started this at around 11:00 yesterday and finished up at 6:45 yesterday afternoon. It was hot out so I had to stay hydrated and it took aroud 4 beers to complete, along with several bottles of water.
Kip
|
|
|
07-30-2008, 01:45 PM
|
#243
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
So did you drill the new holes from inside the trailer thru the new aluminum, or from the outside of the trailer. I see how you started the process by lining up on the top piece of (old) skin. Just having a little trouble seeing the whole picture.
Jim
|
|
|
07-30-2008, 02:28 PM
|
#244
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
I used all existing rivet holes no new holes except a few in the bottom of the top window frame because the rivet spacing was real wide there.. Just to get things started I transfered the forward holes from the old skin to the new skin and then clecoed the new skin on. I had not made the cutouts for the windows yet. I then transfered (backdrilled) the aft holes (existing) from the door frame from the inside and removed the new skin from the trailer. Once that was complete I clecoed the old skin back on to the new skin and transfered a few noles for the windows to properly locate the windows and then scribed the window opening on to the new skin, and scribing the cutline for the aft portion of the skin.
|
|
|
08-04-2008, 06:22 AM
|
#245
|
1 Rivet Member
1976 31' Excella 500
Rockford
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 9
|
Great Thread! I am following with high hopes of doing much the same. I would like to replace the interior skin with the type that is in the newer AS. It looks like brushed aluminum but I dont know how thick or where to find it local. Can you help?
|
|
|
08-04-2008, 06:40 AM
|
#246
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
I don't know off hand where to get it but I'm sure it's available. It would be a big job to brush it yourself, but doable. I have not measured the interior skin and maybe someone will pop up here and answer but I'm guessing it's in the .025 to .032 range. As far as alloy is concerned, 2024, 6061, 5052, 3003 all would work from best to not as good.
|
|
|
08-04-2008, 06:50 AM
|
#247
|
Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Mich.
Great Thread! I am following with high hopes of doing much the same. I would like to replace the interior skin with the type that is in the newer AS. It looks like brushed aluminum but I dont know how thick or where to find it local. Can you help?
|
If you have to order it by mail, here's the best place I've found:
Airparts Inc. Homepage
I agree with Kip, it will be difficult to find it brushed.
Zep
|
|
|
08-04-2008, 08:30 AM
|
#248
|
Rivet Master
1963 26' Overlander
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
|
I think what you're getting at is that you'd like more of a matte finish than a highly polished one for the interior. If my interpretation is correct, then I think just a mil finish would look really good, and would be reminiscent of the finish on the recent-model Airstream International interiors.
|
|
|
08-08-2008, 03:22 PM
|
#249
|
4 Rivet Member
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Polk City
, Iowa
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 353
|
More
More, more, I need more posts. This is an excellent thread. I'll piss myself if I ever need to go to this much work but it is amazing to see your vast skills and ambition at work here. Great job!
|
|
|
08-09-2008, 03:55 PM
|
#250
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
I picked up the welded door frame Thursday afternoon and started work Friday. I had to mill out the boss for the stock KT latch. I did this after work Thursday and did not have my camera, so no pictures of that. I hung the door frame on the GT to establish the proper place to locate the latch, and got at it with rotary files and hand files. the frame was .250" thick where the plunger for the new latch will reside. It took some time. After the location for the new latch was established I made new skins and match drilled them to the frame. I also made a new internal rib and match drilled it along with cutting the hole for the new 41.00 latch. The new latch works much better then the old KT latch, and all it takes to close it is a gentle push. The built in deadbolt is a definite plus. I am going to finish up a few odds and ends and start shooting it together. The latch replacement is not for the faint of heart.
|
|
|
08-10-2008, 05:13 PM
|
#251
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
I removed so much material from the cast frame that I made a 7075-T6 doubler. I put the door back on the GT and used it for a drilling jig. I added more holes in between the existing and drilled all the holes to a #21. Back in the shop, I disassembled, cleaned and be-burred, sealed, and shot it all back together. Last shot is of the new latch and doubled. I still need to trim the edges for a constant revel and replace the inner skin with a new one piece unit. The door now latches shut with just a gentle nudge.
|
|
|
08-11-2008, 09:15 AM
|
#252
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
Door seal
Does anyone know if the "D" shaped door and window seal (Inland Part# 45370) is self adhesive on not?
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 05:44 PM
|
#253
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
I took the day off today to finish up the Door. I trimmed the panel to fit and drilled a few more holes and got the panel ready to install. I then insulated the door with pink foam board spaced a 1/4" away from the exterior skin. This is probably the only place that I will insulate with foam. I wanted that thud sound when closing the door, and I think I achieved it. I then installed the inner skin with flush rivets as I plan to veneer the skin with cherry later on. Did I say that the new latch works good?
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 06:10 PM
|
#254
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 17' Caravel
Thompsons Station
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 126
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Does anyone know if the "D" shaped door and window seal (Inland Part# 45370) is self adhesive on not?
|
I purchased some from Andy and indeed it is self adhesive. Be sure to clean the surface your applying to really good. I use a fine grade rotary wire brush in a drill and then clean with mineral spirits.
|
|
|
09-23-2008, 02:31 PM
|
#255
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
We had some epoxy floor paint left over at work from when got the floor painted. My boss was going to get rid of it so I grabbed it. Today I put the first coat on the subfloor to just seal it all up abit.
|
|
|
09-23-2008, 05:55 PM
|
#256
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
Last weekend I plugged some holes on top of the shell, The two aft vent holes, the old bathroom vent, and on the front, the TV antenna coax hole, and the TV antenna hole.
|
|
|
09-25-2008, 08:27 AM
|
#257
|
Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I took the day off today to finish up the Door. I trimmed the panel to fit and drilled a few more holes and got the panel ready to install. I then insulated the door with pink foam board spaced a 1/4" away from the exterior skin. ...
|
I need to come up and check your door fit. How'd the curve work out after you got the frame welded? It has been my experience that the doors seem to "un" bow so that the top and bottom aren't snug. Maybe it's the shell changing shape a little, due to road bumps. Don't know.
Your foam idea is great, especially spacing it away from the outer skin.
Zep
|
|
|
09-25-2008, 10:56 AM
|
#258
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
There was alot of work getting the top and bottom to fit correctly. What I did was install the the door on the hinge in the position I wanted on the trailer and then do the final drill of the new skins with the door frame clamped in the trailer door frame. After riveting on the outer skin with the door removed (you can't buck the rivets with the door in place) I then drilled and installed the inner skin with the door in place. I actually had to shim out the top because it was to snug before I blind riveted the inner skin on. I had cut the outer skin big so I then had to trim the skin for the reveal. I towed it down several miles of dirt road last weekend and had zero dust intrusion. It then rained like a cow pissing on a flat rock Sat. night and I had zero water leakage.
|
|
|
09-25-2008, 10:56 PM
|
#259
|
Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,376
|
The hard way?
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
|
|
|
09-26-2008, 07:05 AM
|
#260
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
|
We all have our own way of doing things
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|