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Old 11-12-2015, 02:06 PM   #1
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1969 23' Safari
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Is this the Filiform of which I've heard spoken?

I've about stripped all the clear coat and decided to see how the Nuvite products worked. I got F9, C and S.
I did about 30 passes of F9 because I couldn't get it smooth. Then I tried some of the C and this is what I have. Did about 4 passes on an 18" or so section. What's the final word on getting this corrosion compounded out? I'm terrified to use sand paper. Is that my only option?
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:35 PM   #2
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Picture?
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:13 PM   #3
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Sorry, pic didn't download

Hope it attaches
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:21 PM   #4
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Try some mineral spirits on a rag and see what happens
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:22 PM   #5
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Looks like filiform, however....

If you have done that many passes with F9 something is wrong with your polishing. Have you stripped the clear coat off? Are you compounding with a wheel? F9 with just a pad or a Cyclo will not cut thru the clear coat and polish.
Tell us what your doing.....your trailer will sparkle if done right.
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:09 PM   #6
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Clear coat is definitely off of this part. It's the rear end cap and came off in a sheet with citrus strip.mI'm compounding with a random orbiter with wool bonnets. I went through 2 bonnets with this one spot, spurring them in between, along with in between buffing and wiping down with mineral spirits. So, 5 black rags, 2 bonnets, 2 hours later, this is what I have. Normal?
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:11 PM   #7
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My worry is, that my whole trailer has these scars.
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:44 PM   #8
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What kind of random orbiter do you have? You may need to go with a variable speed angle grinder.

I am not a Nuvite expert, it not the only way to skin the cat. I use bar tripoli and rouge and sometimes whatever else is at hand including Mother's Truck Box Polish.

Your photo is not the greatest. A macro photo would help. But it does not look like filiform which is little white wormy squiggly stuff that would have been there from the get go.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:03 AM   #9
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It's a porter cable 6" variable speed random orbit sander/ polisher. I decided not to go with the heavier/bigger 7" one because I have arthritis in my elbow. Theses are definitely "scratches" that you can feel with your fingers.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:41 AM   #10
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Like I said...THAT type polisher is NOT going to get it done.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Like I said...THAT type polisher is NOT going to get it done.
I'm afraid I agree. But, even with better equipment polishing takes a lot of work. That's why the pros get thousands of dollars.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:34 AM   #12
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The metal is pitted due to time and exposure....corroded.not necessarily filiform though.Which is normally white powder (looks worm like)under the coating.
You will only be able to polish the aluminum so deep and some will not come out.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:44 AM   #13
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It seems that, like cars, boats, airplanes, and yes, even myself - something that is getting old simply cannot be made 100% new again. Wear those battle scars with pride!
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:45 AM   #14
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I was looking to polish a set of wheels last year that looked similar in nature, and found some great information on the web. I presume you have looked at other sites as well, but figured I will post some links to a few that might provide some additional insight. A couple of favorites;

Polishing - Vintage Airstream
Metal Polishing Equipment : Auto Detailing Supplies : Electric Car Polishers : Airplane Polish : Auto Polisher : Aluminum : Polishers and Buffers : PerfectPolish.com

Here is one that goes over the polishing method on some tough looking material
Using the Compounding Polisher : Aluminum Polish : PerfectPolish.com

some info on aluminum corrosion
Corrosion Control For Aircraft

Airstream trailers - Strip and Polish

Scroll down the page about half way to see an article on polishing and AS
Interesting Before & After polishing pictures from Customers and clients

Hope it helps,

Drew


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It's a porter cable 6" variable speed random orbit sander/ polisher. I decided not to go with the heavier/bigger 7" one because I have arthritis in my elbow. Theses are definitely "scratches" that you can feel with your fingers.
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Old 11-14-2015, 08:23 AM   #15
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Ok, thanks all. I'm going to lowes or harbor freight to get another compounder. What are your recommendations?
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Old 11-14-2015, 08:37 AM   #16
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Variable sped and horsepower is a must. You will be using a lower rpm for polishing, but, the unit must have enough torque that it won't slow down. A Harbor Freight unit probably won't last you too long. You need something you can get both hands on and bear down on it without slow down. Takes some muscle besides horsepower. You will end up with swirls in the aluminum when finished. You will need a Cyclo polisher to get the swirls out as final step. But a Cyclo is not the choice for the initial compounding and polishing work.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:41 PM   #17
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What am I doing wrong??!?

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Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
Like I said...THAT type polisher is NOT going to get it done.
So, I couldn't find a 7" Mikita polisher, so I ordered one from Amazon. Should be here on Mon. Meanwhile, I'm using my porter cable random speed orbital polisher-with nuvite f6 and c. I have a lot of corrosion, apparently. I chose a panel on the TT to work on that was not original. No clear coat, super corroded. 5 hours of polishing, wiping with mineral spirits, rinse, repeat, about a 3 foot section. Progress, but slow. I read that my porter cable is 6500 rpms. Should I slow it down? I've tried from 3-5. I actually enjoy slow, tedious, mindless activity, so I'm in no rush. Just want to make sure I'm not screwing something up. I'm attaching photo of the "new" piece. The panel above I had not completely ridded of clear coat (have now), so you'll see that. Photo will prob be sideways, too. Thanks for your help! This site is a lifesaver!!
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:50 PM   #18
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That's helpful

Quote:
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Variable sped and horsepower is a must. You will be using a lower rpm for polishing, but, the unit must have enough torque that it won't slow down. A Harbor Freight unit probably won't last you too long. You need something you can get both hands on and bear down on it without slow down. Takes some muscle besides horsepower. You will end up with swirls in the aluminum when finished. You will need a Cyclo polisher to get the swirls out as final step. But a Cyclo is not the choice for the initial compounding and polishing work.
Thanks! I have no upper body strength, but have a son who does! I'm confused by the info I've gotten that says one pass you'll see shiny metal. All I see is black smudges. It takes MULTIPLE passes to get it to where I can see metal, after wiping down with mineral spirits. Don't get me wrong, I actually kind of enjoy this, so long as the weather is good! January and February won't be so forgiving as today's 70 degrees.
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:06 PM   #19
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I read that my porter cable is 6500 rpms. Should I slow it down? I've tried from 3-5. I actually enjoy slow, tedious, mindless activity, so I'm in no rush.
Hign rpm can build up too much heat and actually scorch the metal causing permanent damage, Also harder to control due to the gyroscopic force it creates. Think 1000 to 1500 rpm. Yes you can see bright metal with one pass, but the only way I know of to do this is with a buffing wheel and a tripoli bar, but that is still just a beginning. Think Karate Kid "wax on wax off". Sounds like you have found the Zen piece. Without it, it's drudgery. And I hope yu have figured out to wear your oldest clothes and cover your head. A simple paper mask is not a bad idea either. Have you long hair? Make sure it is tied up. Get it caught up in a polisher and it will pull the scalp right off your head, or worse.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:07 AM   #20
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Spending too much time on one spot can also cause an orange peel effect. Be sure to keep feathering your work out.
I polished injection molds for many years as a side job and learned this early on in my training.
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