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Old 12-21-2015, 08:24 PM   #521
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Now that the floor was level I had to find new flooring. Airstream no longer had the cork looking flooring that came with my trailer and I couldnít find any cork looking vinyl that was as thin as the original. The original vinyl flooring was about 2mm thick. I would have liked to put cork flooring in, but it was all too thick so I decided to go with vinyl plank flooring that was 3mm thick. I decided on a pattern called ďrustic reclaimed oakĒ since I thought it kept the beachy feeling in my Ocean Breeze with something that looked like driftwood that you would find washed up on a beach. Iím no interior designer but it works for me and I donít plan on selling my trailer anytime soon. Eventually I will redo all the flooring, but that is a couple of years away.



I had no experience with installing the flooring so I found a local floor installer that would put it in for me. I got my flooring from Lumber Liquidators and they refused to install it in an RV, even if I waived the warranty. It took the guy installing the vinyl plank flooring by my watch 3 beers to finish the job as I watched and talked with him about how to install the flooring.



I reinstalled the edge trimming that came with the Airstream and put back the seats. I still have to put in the transition piece between the old and new vinyl, and that will be in soon.






It has taken about 2 Ĺ months of on and off work to finish the inside portion of the repair work. I estimate that I spent approximately 600-700 dollars on materials and the labor to fix the floor. I did have to get some tools and the fan, but I donít count that as part of the cost to repair the Airstream since I have and will use the tools on other projects. I didnít keep a timesheet of hours worked, but I would estimate that I spent about 75-100 hours of working on it. If I had to do the repairs again I would be able to cut that in half since I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to fix it along the way.

The dealer I took it for a repair estimate gave me one somewhere between $3,000-$6,000 dollars depending on how much they had to work on it. Add in the cost of me having to stay in a hotel during the time it took to repair it would have added another $1,000-$1,500. Overall I saved a bunch of money and learned a lot on how to fix my Airstream along the way.
I still have to install the insulation by dropping the belly pan, but that will be in the next couple of weeks.

I hope this will help someone who has the same issue as many others in here have had. Below are some links that I used to help research the project and materials I used. If anyone has a question or wants some more info please feel free to PM me.

Youtube video of an 27FB Airstream removing the floor https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdU...Ze4nqk7JQavuyg
Flooring I used - tranquility click resilient vinyl | Buy Hardwood Floors and Flooring at Lumber Liquidators
Other Airforum threads
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...-106406-2.html
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:30 PM   #522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eheffa View Post
Good Documentation.

Thanks for posting.

Consider getting rid of that Reflectix foil garbage under your new floor. It's not difficult to pull off the bottom skin and add real insulation under the floor; something that breathes, and doesn't hold any water up against the underside of the plywood. (See my post #299 on this thread for one option...)

-evan

Eheffa,

Your post was where I got the idea of how to put insulation in after I couldn't get the foil stuff to work. Thanks for the ideas, which was one of the reasons I decided to document my work and post it here so others could get some ideas.
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:33 PM   #523
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Originally Posted by FLMarine View Post
Eheffa,

Your post was where I got the idea of how to put insulation in after I couldn't get the foil stuff to work. Thanks for the ideas, which was one of the reasons I decided to document my work and post it here so others could get some ideas.
Thanks.

You've done a great job on this. I doubt any RV shop could even come close to this quality of work. Having a step by step description with good images makes it a lot easier for others following in your wake.

It's tough to accept that something like this even needs to be done in the first place when it's so preventable but once you know you need to do it, there really is no choice.

Nice work.

I missed noting how you decided to insulate the floors.

Cheers,

-evan
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:18 AM   #524
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Originally Posted by eheffa View Post
Thanks.

You've done a great job on this. I doubt any RV shop could even come close to this quality of work. Having a step by step description with good images makes it a lot easier for others following in your wake.

It's tough to accept that something like this even needs to be done in the first place when it's so preventable but once you know you need to do it, there really is no choice.

Nice work.

I missed noting how you decided to insulate the floors.

Cheers,

-evan
I plan to do what you did. I will be using styrofoam type 4x8ft sheet and cut it to fit underneath with spacers drilled into the bottom of the floor. I just need to get the proper rivets before I drop the pan.
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:11 AM   #525
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Excellent work.
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:19 AM   #526
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Originally Posted by FLMarine View Post
The dealer I took it for a repair estimate gave me one somewhere between $3,000-$6,000 dollars depending on how much they had to work on it. Add in the cost of me having to stay in a hotel during the time it took to repair it would have added another $1,000-$1,500.
Great job on your repairs, FLMarine. I also used fiberglass when I did my repair; it makes for a really strong floor.

Keep in mind the water leak will cost you another 15% when it is time to trade or sell your AS. I was so disgusted by how AS handled this factory defect that I sold my 2007 27FB Safari shortly after I completed the repairs. The AS dealer dinged me $6,000 on the appraisal because I'd experienced the well-documented water leak, even though it had been repaired- didn't matter if it was fixed by AS or the owner, it was akin to a car that had been in a flood....

I can't wait for the right attorney to get burned by AS like the rest of us have....
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:41 AM   #527
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That dealer sounds like they were taking advantage of your honesty. All RVs generate leaks. I bet they didn't pass the discount along to the next owner.

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Old 12-22-2015, 02:07 PM   #528
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FLMarine. Think it was about 18 months ago we talked over the phone about your problem. I suggested that you should move forward and do the work yourself and not play Airstream's potentially expensive game of determining fault. Well, you did an outstanding job! I am pleased with my work as documented in earlier threads; however, wish you would have gone before me so I could have employed some of your methods. Hope civilian life is treating you well. Doug
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:19 PM   #529
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I don't think adding any insulation to the back under-flooring is worth the hassle. When camping above 10,000 feet in the mountains of Colorado, I regularly have 40 degree or below temps by early morning. And the in-door and out-door temps are usually very close if I don't use the heater. With so much surface area of single pane windows, plastic roof vents, and the skylight, I believe it is a losing battle in trying to keep the heat or cold out of an AS by adding insulation anywhere. Insulation is just another sponge for leaks.
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:19 PM   #530
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Originally Posted by Doug2009FC View Post
I don't think adding any insulation to the back under-flooring is worth the hassle. When camping above 10,000 feet in the mountains of Colorado, I regularly have 40 degree or below temps by early morning. And the in-door and out-door temps are usually very close if I don't use the heater. With so much surface area of single pane windows, plastic roof vents, and the skylight, I believe it is a losing battle in trying to keep the heat or cold out of an AS by adding insulation anywhere. Insulation is just another sponge for leaks.
We regularly camp in temperatures approaching freezing, and having the floors feeling warmer underfoot is very nice. I agree that the AS is not stellar with respect to its insulation but any little bit you can add helps the overall comfort IMHO.

Using rigid foam insulation under the sub-flooring with an airspace works well and will not trap the water under the floor to enhance rot.

-evan
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:10 AM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug2009FC View Post
FLMarine. Think it was about 18 months ago we talked over the phone about your problem. I suggested that you should move forward and do the work yourself and not play Airstream's potentially expensive game of determining fault. Well, you did an outstanding job! I am pleased with my work as documented in earlier threads; however, wish you would have gone before me so I could have employed some of your methods. Hope civilian life is treating you well. Doug

Doug,

We did talk over the phone about a year or so ago. Your encouragement and advice helped me go forward with the repairs myself. Thanks for the compliments on my work. Civilian life is going great, I'm doing what I love for work, which is flying helicopters. Hope things are going well for you too.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:38 AM   #532
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Looks like a quality repair. good job. As much as I wanted to purchase one of these A/S. I know I would blow my top to pay $60K, only to have the factory not repair a water leak and have to fix it myself. The response A/S has had to these water leaks has been a real turn off to some, I'm sure. there a price to pay, for screwing a customer. The factory is getting away with nothing. How would it have cost them to fix the leak of the original posting? How much did they lose, when I decided I would not purchase an A/S?
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:41 AM   #533
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Great job on your repairs, FLMarine. I also used fiberglass when I did my repair; it makes for a really strong floor.

Keep in mind the water leak will cost you another 15% when it is time to trade or sell your AS. I was so disgusted by how AS handled this factory defect that I sold my 2007 27FB Safari shortly after I completed the repairs. The AS dealer dinged me $6,000 on the appraisal because I'd experienced the well-documented water leak, even though it had been repaired- didn't matter if it was fixed by AS or the owner, it was akin to a car that had been in a flood....

I can't wait for the right attorney to get burned by AS like the rest of us have....
There is no need to take a financial loss because of a water leak.

The many posts on this forums about water leaks, shoulc be read by every owner, so they know what to look for.

One of the biggest water leaks, and yet a cheap fix to correct is the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets.

They only last 2 to 3 years. That being the case, I would suggest that every owner should be made aware of that specific leak issue, and obtain the parts for the fix, which are very cheap.

Inspecting the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets is a very easy task. After 2 to 3 years, inspect them for cracks, which most likely has happened. Replace those gaskets is an easy task.

Best thoughts for those gaskets, is don't wait for that type of leak to cause damage, but replace those gaskets no later than every 3 years.

Waiting for a water leak to cause damage, is not a good philosophy, especially when an owner knows that particular leak is not a here or there happening, but a guaranteed happening, unfortunately.

Bottom line, be prepared, as that is one leak that can be corrected before any damage occurs.

The cost for a sewer vent pipe gasket and screen, is much below $ 10.00 per. Certainly not a bank breaker.

Andy
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Old 12-23-2015, 02:36 PM   #534
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[QUOTE=twoweeled;1726578]Looks like a quality repair. good job. As much as I wanted to purchase one of these A/S. I know I would blow my top to pay $60K, only to have the factory not repair a water leak and have to fix it myself. The response A/S has had to these water leaks has been a real turn off to some, I'm sure. there a price to pay, for screwing a customer. The factory is getting away with nothing. How would it have cost them to fix the leak of the original posting? How much did they lose, when I decided I would not purchase an A/S?[/QUOTE]


Hi, Airstream didn't lose anything; They now have more buyers than trailers.
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Old 06-19-2016, 04:01 PM   #535
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Thanks for these well documented repairs, all. I'm just starting on mine. Can you advise me what size drill to use to remove the bellypan and what size rivets to re-install?
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Old 06-19-2016, 04:11 PM   #536
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[QUOTE=ROBERTSUNRUS;1726739]
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoweeled View Post
Looks like a quality repair. good job. As much as I wanted to purchase one of these A/S. I know I would blow my top to pay $60K, only to have the factory not repair a water leak and have to fix it myself. The response A/S has had to these water leaks has been a real turn off to some, I'm sure. there a price to pay, for screwing a customer. The factory is getting away with nothing. How would it have cost them to fix the leak of the original posting? How much did they lose, when I decided I would not purchase an A/S?[/QUOTE]


Hi, Airstream didn't lose anything; They now have more buyers than trailers.
Robert - burns me too! My "next Airstream" is an AVION. 40 year old and only a tiny leak in the back - and doesn't take a frame off to replace the top layer of plywood. Oh and did I mention the floor is three layers with styrofoam insulation in the middle?

Airstream HAS that "kewl" factor and people are snapping them up like crazy but they aren't the only cool trailers out there. I'd still pop for an Oliver or a Casita if I were going small. And my Avion is getting plenty of looks even if it needs a good scrub down to clean up the anodized finish.

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Old 06-19-2016, 05:03 PM   #537
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You can add me to the list of those who have had the same problem with water seepage into the floor on the back of their AS. I have a 2009 25FB International. Just bought it last summer and knew nothing about this problem until two days ago when I noticed moisture under the dinette. And began reading here on the forum about the issues others have had.

I am going to remove the rub rail trim and try to seal where the lip of the shell meets the rear bumper cover. While my floor is wet I haven't noticed any softness anywhere. But after trying to fix the leak I'll have to pull up the linoleum and do some investigation.

Drat! It's a shame this is such a common problem.
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:34 PM   #538
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After 60 plus years of this problem you would think the "so called" designers at A$ would have resolved this problem.
It's one of the main reasons I bought an SOB when we decided to upgrade from our Argosy. That and I saved a ton of money.
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Old 07-01-2016, 05:09 PM   #539
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Look what I found

just removed the rub rail, and discovered that the PO has already resealed the area around the rear bumper.

The bad news is - where did the water come from? The foil insulation was full of water, the subfloor was wet (not rotted). Just took a hose to it and the only thing that leaks is the skylight (in the process of replacing that, I know it leaked - but I don't think that leak would have made it to the rear of the trailer).

Might have to take it in for a pressure test. Any other ideas?

Chris
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Old 07-01-2016, 05:29 PM   #540
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A leak from the skylight sure could have made it's way there. The interior skin is three dimensionally curved. Storage parking is not necessarily level. So consider where the low point of parking is. Now imagine the path of water leaking from a skylight to the interior skin and moving along those curves toward the low point. Also imagine the path of water as it is diverted by ribs. It can definitely end up there.
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