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Old 04-05-2007, 09:07 PM   #21
3 Rivet Member
2007 27' Safari FB SE
McKinney , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 109
You can get a parallel kit for the Yamaha 2400IS. It should be able to run your A/C just fine. If you go to the Dometic website or even the owners manual it should tell you that you A/c start up voltage is somewhere around 10-15 amps. I think 13 is the actual startup but don't quote me on that. We have the dual Honda eu2000I gens with the parallel kit. They work great. Look up Wise sales on the web. Best prices anywhere on gensets.
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:07 PM   #22
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2007 27' Safari FB SE
Scurry , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 135
I haven't read all the replies here but I can tell you the short answer to your question is "No". I've spent many a weekend on generator power as we used to use our trailer as a "pit" trailer for off road motorcycle racing. These races are conducted on private ranch land where the only power, shade, water, etc is what you bring with you. My last trailer, as well as our 07 27'FB had a 13.5 A/C unit, plus microwave, and all the amenities. I finally settled on a 5,500 watt OHV generator. Yes it was big and heavy, but it did the job without a hiccup. On those 105 degree weekends in Texas we ran the A/C on the generator 24 hours a day and it didn't seem to notice or take a dip when the microwave was in use while the A/C was on. A smaller unit, even a 5,000 watter, sometimes tripped the breaker when we used the microwave at the same time as the A/C. So, all in all, I'd suggest that you get as much power as you can lift into the back of your truck. You'll be happy with the results. Next time around I'd go with a Honda unit, since they are so much quieter than most others. These days, however, I'm using a 20 year old Kawasaki 1400 watt that I bought from a friend. No it won't run the A/C, but it will run the lights and microwave and other 120 V amenities on board. Since retiring from the bike racing we usually stick to the camp areas where hookups are available during the hot season. But in the cooler months the little 1400 watter does the trick, plus it's light weight and packs away easily.
If it ever dies, I'll replace it with one of the newer Honda 2000 watters. those are the way to go if that's the power range your looking for, plus it can double up with a 2nd 2000 watt unit for a double load. Use one when you don't need both. Use both when you need the extra power. They're light weight and easy to transport too.

Fuel for Thought- hope it helps.
'07 27 FB - H.A.
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:04 PM   #23
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Vintage Kin Owner
Newcastle , Oklahoma
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 128
I'm not sure of my ac size, but I can run all I need form 1 - 15 amp receptical with a 20 amp breaker and never have a problem even on the hottest days. No microwave, only AC, TV, lights, & water pump.
Will 1 Honda 2000 handle that load?
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:24 PM   #24
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1978 24' Argosy 24
Woodinville , Washington
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 682
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Well, the great generator debate rages on. I finally got a chance to try mine, a Yamaha EF2800i. The trailer, a '78 Argosy 24, I finally figured out has only a 10,000 BTU A/C. The answer is.... the generator doesn't even notice when the A/C starts up. The Yamaha (like the Honda) has an Economy Switch which means the rpm ramps up when it encounters a load. Well, it doesn't noticably rev up off idle when the AC starts. NO WHERE NEAR the load of the Microwave in the house. Even the house refigerator pulls more start-up current than the trailer A/C. With the A/C running full bore the generator is sitting on idle

I suspect the people haven't trouble with 10,000-13,500 A/C running on less than 3,000 watt generators have an issue with the start-up capacitors on the A/C


PS, love the idea of the RubberMaid tote. I still want to convert to Propane but even so the RubberMaid would be a good idea. Had a little spider issue when I pulled the generator out today
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