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Old 10-27-2009, 01:45 PM   #41
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I use a HAHA and it seems to me, though it uses 1200# bars you only preload them to where you need them by running up the jack screws. I have a tried several settings on them and have found my best setting. I now use a predefined setting each time with great results.

I bought my AS because I thought it was a much better trailer than the many many White Boxes I checked out. I still think that. There are times that I wonder why AS couldn't have done a better job but I'm that why with ever product I purchase. It seems to me that we find too much fault with our AS products and blame AS. I think this forum is best served helping each other when and where we can.
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:48 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by fltlevel510 View Post
Does tongue weight have anything to do with what size weight distribution bars to be used? I have a 30' SO with an empty tongue wt of 1125#. The trailer gross wt is 9100# and newer models gross at 10000#.
When selecting a load equalizing hitch weight rating, you must consider the tongue weight of the trailer, "AND" the exact type tow vehicle you will be using.

As an example, in your case, if you will use a 1/2 ton trock, then 1000 pounds bars.

If you wish to use a 3/4 ton truck, then 750 pound bars.

If you plan on using a dually, a heavy duty 4 X 4, an extended cab with overloads, then a 600 pound rating would be adequate.

Oh, and don't forget to use a 'torsion type" sway control.

Now, if you want to use a Peterbilt, then don't waste any money on a load eqaulizing hitch.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:07 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
Hi Andy,
Go look a Equal-I-Zer's web site. The bars rest on brackets mounted to the tongue. when the hitch is adusted correctly there is significant fricton between the bars and brackets. the sockets where the bars mount to the head are also designed to provide friction as the bars swing left or right. I'm not a fan of the Equal-I-Zer, but that is how they say it works. I used an Equal-I-Zer on my previous TT, but use a ProPride on the airstream.
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Ken
ken.

I did a "oops".

I was refering to Eazlift, not equalizer.

However, steel on steel, is a no no.

Lube the snap up bracket on the Equalizer and most of the friction is "gone".

All, repeat "all" hitch manufactures tell you what you want to hear, but "FAIL" to provide engineering data, to back up their claims, regarding sway control.

Anyone can say whatever they want.

I mean, come on, why use a sway control at all???

When a coupler is locked onto the ball, doesn't that provide sway control friction?? NOT!!! But someone could say that, and have some believers, too.

Sway control, is not something to snicker at.

Either you have it, or you don't.

Saying it in print, doesn't prove a thing. Demonstrating it with tests, etc, now you would be talking.

What tests?

How about a test track swinging around obstacles, and measure the G-forces the trailer encounters, before and after, and at various speeds, including highway speeds?

That to me, would now become "tough talk".

Has any hitch manufacturer done that. NOPE!!

Will they ever do that?

I doubt it, as long as the consumer continue to "buy" their "sales" department advertising and pitches.


Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:28 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
...I have an 07' model trailer with stress cracikng around the front compartment due to bad design and construction and Airstream says it is not there issue. My repair center has another trailer there same year and model with the same issue and Airstream has pretty much turned their nose up at the repair as if it is something that I did to the trailer...
hey krazy

u might wanna start A NEW THREAD on CRACKS...

since this one has been hijacked into something else.

this has happened b4 when TRYING to discuss a/s structural issues, repairs, factory support and so on.

it's a common tactic and unfortunate.

somewhat like EVERY DEXTER AXLE thread ending up about some other brand of axle...

expect a zipdee price increase/decrease/no change post any time.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:40 PM   #45
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All of this has turned into something besides what the focus is. Where is the instruction in the owners manual book about how much or what type of hitch rigging to use? I did not even know this forum existed until we bought our trailer. If this info is so readily available then it should be published in the owners manual. I have my hitch set per the limited info in the owners manual at 17 3/4 inches so that the trailer rides nice and level. When I step on the the tongue it bobs down a few inches just like you talk about Andy. Furthermore, it appears this has been an issue from what I have seen on this site since 2005 (thanks 2Air). Yes, a lawyer could have a time with this and he would be the only one getting rich off of this. I check the hitch and adjust it for every trip. If we are going out for the weekend I set the tension for the load. If we are going on a 10 day trip (loaded) a different tension is used all to keep the hitch at the correct ride height. withthe scenario you speak of Andy I would need a complete different hitch for every trip or load. Load bars I thought were rated for their MAX capacity and one would think that not using the MAX capacity would be wiser than using a set of 600 lb bars cinched all the way up to the max.

Poor design and the refusal to incorporate change has killed many company's that at one time were highly respected and reveered. I work with structural engineers and highly technically capable folks that I offered up to the Airstream folks to look into at my cost for their benefit. They have not responded. I hope that this works out. Thank you all for your comments.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:54 PM   #46
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I don't think the thread has been hijacked as the possibility exists that hitch connection and t.v. suspension is directly related to structural integrity of the Airstream. Let the discussion involve all possible solutions, and not end with parking your deficient trailer.
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:16 PM   #47
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There seems to be two camps here. One believing the Airstreams have become poorly designed with inherent weakness, and the other having found that this defect can be mitigated by modifying or selecting a softer ride at the connection to the t.v. Something tells me, a newbie, that both are correct, or at least somewhat so. If we who have wimpy little trailers and those that have the Queen Mary behind them have anything in common, it is that we like our Airstreams and want to learn how to make them last.
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:30 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
... the possibility exists that...
it's possible ALIENS brokked his trailer too...

but not likely.

the point is MUCH of the hitch info provided herein, is based on 1970.

and the shell stress cracks on SQUARE CORNERED opening has nothing to do with that...

if one reads the "bars for trucks" suggested above and COMPARES it to PREVIOUS threads on this topic FROM THE SAME POSTER...

the numbers are different in each thread... for the same SIZE vehicles.

and much of the info on hitchs provided so far HERE is simply incorrect.

for example HENSLEY does supply w/d bars at ~600lbs and even the 1400 lb bars can be 'tensioned' to ZERO w/d.

and 'no hitch maker or dealer' understand how to rig a 'stream? please don't drink the kool-aid...

it's WAY past the expiration date.

JUMPING UP n DOWN on the connection tells one NOTHING about proper hitch and w/d.

it's a silly old UNPROVEN ritual based on "watch this" thinking...

besides IF ALIENS JUMP up N down on the connection, it' might cause cracks...

shell cracking is a LONG TIME issue with these trailers.

but new cracking on a 50s or 60s unit that weight 3000lbs with 40 years of road use...

is a completely different issue than cracks on 7-10,000 lb trailers just 2-5 years old.

and the O.P. didn't start this thread to speculate on hitches.

LOOK at the record for cracks on modern trailers and you will find ALL brands/ratings of hitches and ALL brands/sizes of tow vehicles.

the ONLY COMMON ISSUE is the trailer manufacturer.

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Old 10-27-2009, 05:11 PM   #49
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Physics is physics, it never ages.

Cause if it did, as some suggest, then we need to kick to the curb, everything Newton and Einstein, came up with because it's way to old.

Hijacking is changing a subject, for one's satisfaction.

Who did that in this thread?

To me, it is indeed sad, that anything and everyting I post, is subject to ridicule by less than a handful of people.

Maybe if enough owners suggest I stop posting and sell Inland RV, it would make them all happy.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:32 PM   #50
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Andy, I use an equalizer system with a TV that is a F 250 super duty and tow a 31 ft. AS.

So far it seems to tow perfect with no sway I can notice and real easy to hook up.

Does this sound ok to you ?

Sorry to hijack the thread but cracks on a AS scare me...............

Robbie R.
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:45 PM   #51
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Krazy Johnny, you're right up the road from us. come join us this weekend for our campout and I'll fix you a drink. email me if you'd like details, it'll be like an Airstream defects support group, we've all dealt with them.....it's not your fault bud.
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:47 PM   #52
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[QUOTE=Inland RV Center, In;764480]


"To me, it is indeed sad, that anything and everyting I post, is subject to ridicule by less than a handful of people." inland RV

I thought Nixon said that
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:47 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbie R. View Post
Andy, I use an equalizer system with a TV that is a F 250 super duty and tow a 31 ft. AS.

So far it seems to tow perfect with no sway I can notice and real easy to hook up.

Does this sound ok to you ?

Sorry to hijack the thread but cracks on a AS scare me...............

Robbie R.
Hi Robbie.

What is the rating of the torsion bars?

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:51 PM   #54
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The OM for my Classic does talk about correct hitching- it states the IMPORTANCE of a weight distributing hitch to avoid rearend 'sag' in the tow vehicle (i.e. transfering adequate weight to the steer axle).

Unless you completely disregard tow vehicle ratings, an +8000lb trailer is going to require a 3/4T ("heavy duty") chassis.

It is NOT possible to transfer an appreciable amount of weight to the steer axle, on a HD truck, without using MAX rated WD bars.

SO, that leaves us with three options:

1. Follow Andy's recommendations, and tow with an under-rated vehicle/improperly loaded (weight distributed) vehicle

2. Tow with an adequately rated vehicle, and follow Airstreams hitching recommendations

or

3. Park it
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:59 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by finalcutjoe View Post
The OM for my Classic does talk about correct hitching- it states the IMPORTANCE of a weight distributing hitch to avoid rearend 'sag' in the tow vehicle (i.e. transfering adequate weight to the steer axle).

Unless you completely disregard tow vehicle ratings, an +8000lb trailer is going to require a 3/4T ("heavy duty") chassis.

It is NOT possible to transfer an appreciable amount of weight to the steer axle, on a HD truck, without using MAX rated WD bars.

SO, that leaves us with three options:

1. Follow Andy's recommendations, and tow with an under-rated vehicle/improperly loaded (weight distributed) vehicle

2. Tow with an adequately rated vehicle, and follow Airstreams hitching recommendations

or

3. Park it

Use # 2, along with hitch manufacturers suggestions, and then you get back to post #1, of this thread.

There are choices.

Each owner can make their own, and live with it, love it, or hate it.

Experience is usually a pretty good reference.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:07 PM   #56
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Andy, I will have to look at the rating and get back to you, thanks.

Robbie R.
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:35 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
To me, it is indeed sad, that anything and everyting I post, is subject to ridicule by less than a handful of people.

Maybe if enough owners suggest I stop posting and sell Inland RV, it would make them all happy.
I don't see it as ridicule... just some healthy debate
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:15 PM   #58
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I know that the weight of these Airstreams has gone up significantly with some models since the mid sixties, when mine was made. Has the frame and over-all structure been beefed up since then? My dry weight is #3100 with a 22' Safari. the new flying cloud 23' is #4708. The 27FB is #6500+. That's more than twice the weight of my old Safari for 5 more feet of length. Could this be a part of the problem? I also hear about cracked and sagging frames and outriggers, rear-end seperation, body cracks, etc. You all know.
It does seem to me, as a manufacturer, that Airstream is somewhat behind on these issues. It would be nice to hear from them that they have decided to improve the structure and warrantee, but it seems that they would rather invest in new electronics.
As a manufacturer I know that if my product doesn't perform I will lose potential customers. If I put a beautiful paint job on something that is not built well it will deteriorate too fast, and the customer will be calling me back for repairs or, worse yet, NOT calling me, but telling their friends that I don't build a quality product. As a manufacturer I have to stay ahead of my customers and anticipate their needs and wants, 'cause if I don't I will lose them, and more.
If Airstreams customers are damaging their rigs by incorrect hitching it will affect their sales unless they address it. To leave something as critical to the longevity of their product in the hands of people who know NOTHING about trailering is absurd. If they can't give recommendations or proper instructions for this CRITICAL aspect of trailering they should improve the quality of the structure to the point where it would be very difficult to cause this kind of damage to a new, "FIRST IN QUALITY" Airstream.
(quote from airstream.com)

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Old 10-27-2009, 07:25 PM   #59
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<Moderator Hat ON>

Please limit your posts to factual information, or opinions regarding the OP's issue. We'll not put up with any further personal pot-shots at individuals for any reason in this thread.

<Moderator Hat OFF>

Roger
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:27 PM   #60
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When new people show up on the forum all of us old-timers are usually more than happy to "re-hash" subjects that have been thoroughly gone over in the past. We all want to help - but the truth is, a rather simple search of the key words would bring up more than a full evenings worth of reading about any given subject. Some subjects evoke a lot of controversy - but there's always a lot to be learned. Afterwards, you're free to make up your own mind about the bulk of things and use the forums to refine the sticky points. Ultimately, the one thing we all share is our love of the lifestyle our Airstreams afford us - no matter what.
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