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03-29-2007, 06:05 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
1964 26' Overlander
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
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Removing Zolatone texture & repainting interior - primers, etching, topcoats
I've been sanding the interior of my 64 trailer to remove the Zolatone texture in preparation for repainting. As usual I'm now discovering that this might be slightly more complicated than just priming & repainting with exterior latex paint once it's sanded flat, as I've taken off all the paint right down to the bare aluminium underneath in a lot of places, and aluminium seems to need special handling, and maybe I should've just lived with that Zolatone texture after all but it's too late now.
So, assuming you're starting with a sanded-smooth (with 150-grit, say) surface that's sometimes aluminium, sometimes flat remnant Zolatone, and sometimes fiberglass, what's the best approach? Okay, and if the best approach is really hard, what's a good approach that's within the capabilities of a klutz like me?
Let's start with the obvious: I don't want to spray Zolatone again. I would like to do the topcoat with conventional (exterior, presumably) latex paint that can be rolled & brushed rather than spray anything, if possible. I'd rather avoid any really toxic paint fumes or exotic processes or hard-to-find paints.
So, some discussions of painting aluminium elsewhere start with "You must remove all previous traces of paint, etch, and then use a special primer". That sure seems like a lot of work to me and it also seems oriented to outdoor applications. Others seem to say: use an automotive primer and you'll be fine. Kilz primer is mentioned a few times as something that could be used.
Here, a lot of people seem to have happily painted right over Zolatone or over vinyl finishes, and there are some people who've repainted the exterior of Argosys, but I haven't found anyone who's painted over sanded aluminium on the interior.
The ideal would be finding a primer that can be brushed or rolled onto bare aluminium, preferably without etching first, and then finding a topcoat paint that will adhere well to that.
So, advice, experiences? I want a relatively smooth satin-ish finish that won't be peeling off in a couple of years and can withstand the usual extreme temperature ranges.
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03-29-2007, 07:14 PM
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#2
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Site Team

, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,722
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You can use Devoe " Devflex" DTM (direct-to-metal) primer. It can be tinted and is available in flat or semigloss. It's a water based acrylic and adhesion over Zolatone was excellent. It's listed as a primer, that means it can go directly on metal, and it works fine as a topcoat.
I sprayed it, but you can roll it it you want. I used a retarder to delay drying.
I did not sand the Zolatone first, I just washed it 3 times with Orange cleaner. I got some pinholes over the Zolatone color, I wish I had sanded it smooth, the texture of the Zolatone does show through.
On the bare metal parts I used West Marine System 860 Aluminum Prep. It's a two part detergent and etch. Easy to use, just wipe on and rinse off.
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03-29-2007, 08:52 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,255
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I believe I noticed a relatively recent post where Andy at Inland said that his shop never etches the outside aluminum prior to painting. If I am recalling correctly he said that they always carefully sand the aluminum with a fine grit sand paper to get enough tooth to stick to.
Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
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03-29-2007, 10:52 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member 
1964 26' Overlander
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
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Oh, I have plenty of texture... in fact smoothing the aluminium is more the task at hand, having stripped the paint mechanically. Not a problem, it's easy enough to get it very smooth, but there's little in the way of bare, shiny aluminium.
I believe it was your post about painting over Zolatone elsewhere that made me decide to sand it, markdoane. That etch you're talking about doesn't sound so bad, actually - I had this uncomfortable image of buckets of acid.
Next stupid question: where can I buy Devflex DTM? I don't see anywhere online - industrial paint stores, automotive paint stores, maybe? It does seem like good stuff.
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03-29-2007, 10:57 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master 

1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob D.
<SNIP> where can I buy Devflex DTM? I don't see anywhere online - industrial paint stores, automotive paint stores, maybe? It does seem like good stuff.
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Any Devoe ICI Paint Store should carry it.
Devoe Coatings website
Shari
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03-29-2007, 11:44 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member 
1964 26' Overlander
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
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Oh. Yes. I missed that link on the site!
The nearest store is about half a mile from my house, I think I should be able to manage that.
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03-30-2007, 10:25 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member 
1964 24' Tradewind
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 40
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Jacob, I'm so glad you brought this up! I'm going to start prepping our interior tomorrow and already have patches of exposed aluminum, with zolatone that was painted over with a flat (peach colored!) paint. Can't wait to get at that stuff, it looks terrible.
__________________
Natalie
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03-31-2007, 10:44 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member 
1964 24' Tradewind
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 40
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So, how did your painting go? I took Markdoan's advice and bought the DTM primer. Really strong fumes, but I think it was a good idea to use it. Unfortunately the PO had painted over duct tape (that had been holding up speaker wires - classy!) and there's a ridge of paint where the edge of the tape used to be and it looks like I didn't sand it down enough.
Still, we're happy with the color and my husband stripped the valances so they look great. Maybe tomorrow I'll feel like going back and sanding the line. I can tell it's going to bug me. This is what it looked like before:
__________________
Natalie
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04-01-2007, 11:06 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member 
1964 26' Overlander
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
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I'm still a little ways away from actually painting. Still sanding & stripping for now...
Any "after" photos?
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04-02-2007, 10:54 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member 
1964 24' Tradewind
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 40
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So far...
Are you going for a really smooth finish? I'm probaby too impatient since I have very little free time (and a retired husband - so the ratio of my work time to his is really pathetic!).
Anyway, I decided to paint in sections, so I just did the front part. I think the POs sanded before they painted because the texture was more like what you'd get from a roller with flat paint.
I don't think the pictures do the color justice - the color looks washed out. Also, my husband stripped the valances and the flash created a lot of glare. We are very pleased with the valances and he's started stripping the hardware.
__________________
Natalie
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