Panoramic end curtain snap

[kittmaster]

In our RBQ, I noticed that the snap for the end curtain panel was loose. I went to tighten it with a Philips screwdriver and of course it appears the screw is stripped.

The techs at JC said they usually "cheat" it by moving the object and create a new hole, but in this case, any move will show a stripped hole.

So how does one repair this? There is no way to go "up" in size and I can't get any type of pliers in there to "flatten" the aluminum to try and rethread it.

Open to any methods that make sense.

Thanks,
Chris

[wulfraat]

Dab of silicon or crazy glue to keep the screw from backing out?

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Dab of silicon or crazy glue to keep the screw from backing out?

Will that take the pressure of snapping on the curtain? The silicon makes sense, crazy glue I think might be messy.....I don't have a great track record with crazy glue......but that is another thread......

[Dingo Girl]

if you can get the screw out you could use an Olympic rivet, or pop rivet that fits the hole in the snap.

[field & stream]

So, how does one repair this? I don’t know.

A no-risk experiment: try wrapping the threads with a few wraps or aluminum foil and see if that fills the gap.

[richard5933]

My snaps are riveted to the walls, not screwed.

[s1000pre]

Have you tried a rivet? I used rivets when I replaced my pressure regulator and found three of the four holes stripped out.

[kittmaster]

I just looked at multiple panels, every single one is screwed, no rivets.

I would like to keep it all the same, a rivet in place makes sense to me, but then it diverges from the rest of the coach.....so trying to resolve the screw hole is the direction I will try to go in....if no other choice.....a rivet it shall be.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by kittmaster

I just looked at multiple panels, every single one is screwed, no rivets.

I would like to keep it all the same, a rivet in place makes sense to me, but then it diverges from the rest of the coach.....so trying to resolve the screw hole is the direction I will try to go in....if no other choice.....a rivet it shall be.

Not many options for making a hole get smaller and still be strong enough to hold against the snap being pulled to open it.

Would you even notice that there is one rivet and screws in the rest? Doesn't the fabric cover the snap most of the time?

[mikeoxlong]

Fill the hole with a dap of epoxy or JB weld.

[Dingo Girl]

if you can bear the sight of 1 rivet use an Olympic rivet if it fits the snap hole.
it has "legs" that will spread out against the back side of the wall panel.
then you won't have the snap pulling out again.
I'll send you a few of the Olympics if you would like.
install them with a pop rivet gun.

[greghoro]

Not a lot of info. For example, you state there is an obstruction keeping you from utilizing pliers. And we know you can access the screw with a screwdriver but are you limited to only a stubby or offset type? Not knowing the nature of the obstruction creates a guessing game.

I’m going under the assumption that there is outward dimpling of the hole and if the dimple could be worked flat to narrow the hole, the screw would once again grip. This is based on your indication that you would use pliers if there was no obstruction.

Is your desire for uniformity worth the effort of removing the obstruction to give you more working room to facilitate the use of pliers or some of the suggested solutions that requires tools?

Perhaps the use of an Olympic rivet with a washer could facilitate flattening the dimple, to where you would then drill out the rivet in the now narrowed hole.

Or look into using a rivet nut which would allow you to then find a machine screw with a matching head to the sheet metal screw. However, you may not have working room to drill out the hole.


Greg

[richard5933]

There's not a lot of options here - a 1/8" pop rivet fits into the hole of the snap pretty well, especially if you have a good rivet gun with a narrow tip on the nosepiece. Not sure that an Olympic rivet would fit, and even if it would there would be no way to use the rivet shaver to shape the head after since it's recessed inside the snap.

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by greghoro

Not a lot of info. For example, you state there is an obstruction keeping you from utilizing pliers. And we know you can access the screw with a screwdriver but are you limited to only a stubby or offset type? Not knowing the nature of the obstruction creates a guessing game.

I’m going under the assumption that there is outward dimpling of the hole and if the dimple could be worked flat to narrow the hole, the screw would once again grip. This is based on your indication that you would use pliers if there was no obstruction.

Is your desire for uniformity worth the effort of removing the obstruction to give you more working room to facilitate the use of pliers or some of the suggested solutions that requires tools?

Perhaps the use of an Olympic rivet with a washer could facilitate flattening the dimple, to where you would then drill out the rivet in the now narrowed hole.

Or look into using a rivet nut which would allow you to then find a machine screw with a matching head to the sheet metal screw. However, you may not have working room to drill out the hole.


Greg

Not sure if that is an accurate statement about the information provided....I figured a curtain snap with a stripped screw hole to hold it was a proper description.

But to your point about pliers....most know that the stripped screws for the AC vents can be accessed when the vents are removed and a pair plyers can "flatten" the metal....but since I only have access to one side of the panel....that is why I mentioned plyers won't work here.

I'm out with the trailer now....so can't do anything until I return home after Memorial day's trip.

I've attached pictures.

Picture 2 shows me being able to "rock" the snap button....it is held, but not secure.

[Wazbro]

I'd say a riv-nut and a machine screw is the way to go.

[greghoro]

Originally Posted by kittmaster

But to your point about pliers....most know that the stripped screws for the AC vents can be accessed when the vents are removed and a pair plyers can "flatten" the metal....but since I only have access to one side of the panel....that is why I mentioned plyers won't work here.

Unfortunately, I don't fit in the AC vent problem fix knowledge area, since my trailer was built prior to 2015 when ducted air was introduced. However, I and others have successfully used slip joint pliers from the one side to gently work and squeeze the dimple flat, closing the hole. That is where I was coming from, since I and the rest of the people who replied with a solution correctly recognized that you have a blind hole.

Note, on the AC vent or any other hole where one has access to both sides, a C Clamp to squeeze the dimple flat would probably be more effective and certainly less marring than a pair of pliers.



Greg

[Creola]

You might consider switching out the snap stud to a YKK SNAD. Sailrite has one with a clear base. I have used SNADs in the cockpit of our sailboat to hold up a sheet bag and in our shower to attach a shower caddy. The VHB adhesive works in both those applications.

https://www.sailrite.com/YKK-SNAD-Clear-25mm-Adhesive-Backed-Flexible-Base-Stud

Rick

[kittmaster]

I'm home for the next week and a half, I'll have time to take a look at this.

Thanks for all the suggestions, will report back with the final outcome.

[RRS4]

Would a machine screw work? A machine screw may help here because it has shallower threads and a wider diameter shaft than a sheet metal screw which is typically used for this application. If there is enough grab with a 6-32 or 8-32 screw, you get only one chance to tighten it without over tightening it and stripping the threads on this one, also.



The other, and final solution is a nutsert, AKA a rivnut. A kit with 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 1/4"-20, 3/8"-16, 5/16"-18 and M3, M4, M5, M6, M8, M10 is available on Amazon for $26. They can be installed with a tool or with just a strong steel screw of the right size and a screwdriver. The snap would be a fraction of an inch off of flush to the aluminum surface. That would be noticeable only to the pickiest individual. If that is a problem, you could change them all, so they match.



Good luck.