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Old 02-02-2008, 03:41 PM   #1
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1978 Argosy 27
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Painting plastic front and bath ceiling in an Argosy

I would like to paint the plastic ceiling in the front and bath and also the tambors in my 78 Argosy. What is the best way to accomplish this task?
John
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Old 02-02-2008, 03:56 PM   #2
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search it, dozens of threads on this. latest news has it that PPG urethane paint (used in auto industry) is the hot ticket.

search tip: doing a google search with "site:airforums.com" at the end often yields good results\
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Old 02-02-2008, 04:01 PM   #3
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Krylon "Fusion" is a good primer - wear a mask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Argy 78
I would like to paint the plastic ceiling in the front and bath and also the tambors in my 78 Argosy. What is the best way to accomplish this task?
I used Krylon "Fusion" as a primer on the end caps of my '78 Sovereign - top coated with "Rustoleum".

I did not sand prior to painting, just cleaned it well with a "powerfull" cleanser.

I have found that 3M "Blue" painters masking tape works well.

Some Pics are in this thread....

http://www.airforums.com/forum...cap-15656.html

Don't spray it too thick, and leave plenty of dry time between coats.
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Old 02-02-2008, 05:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argy 78
I would like to paint the plastic ceiling in the front and bath and also the tambors in my 78 Argosy. What is the best way to accomplish this task?
John
Argy 78
For maximum adhesion and longevity, any plastic should be sanded, not scuffed, but well sanded, with 120 to 150 grit sandpaper, before any primer is used.

That gives the primer a far superior surface to bond to.

Large temperature changes, such as travel trailers experience, will quickly cause paint failures due to lack on proper bonding.

A plastic surface is very smooth, similiar to glass. It must be "well" sanded for proper long term primer bonding.

Andy
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Old 02-02-2008, 05:45 PM   #5
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The plastic vacuum formed domes are ABS plastic. The tambor doors I believe are PVC. There are good solvent based primers which will attack and bond to ABS very well. The Urethane based paints work very well. I am not too sure anything will complertely bond with the rigid PVC but there might be a product that would normally be recommended for PVC siding on houses. Check at a large professional paint store, (not some big box home store)
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:38 PM   #6
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very cool

great advice from all. i need to do the same eventually. learning lots. thanks.
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Old 02-02-2008, 08:02 PM   #7
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I clicked on your website link. Wow jazz and photography along with Airstreams, does it get any more plus de cool
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Old 02-02-2008, 08:25 PM   #8
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I am considering the same thing. I fear I will need to remove the front molded panl in order to repair some nasty dents. If would make sense to paint while it is out I suspect. Look forward to seeing your results.
Best of luck
rob n terry
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Old 02-03-2008, 05:47 AM   #9
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I just went through this... I used a complete line of products by PPG. I used a primer called K36. It uses a catalyst and if you do not use it all up, it will go solid in your gun costing you dearly. I then used a urethane paint that had to be mixed with a hardener. The paint is super strong and highly flexible. I had to make friends with the guys at the auto body paint supply house to buy it for it is not a product available to the general public. I have to say spraying the top coat was a challenge for me, runs suck and cause you to do it over. If I were to do it over again I would just find an auto body shop and lure one of the guys over with the promise of cash and drink. The paint goes on incredibly thin and requires a special touch with the gun. I spray tons of lacquer in my cabinet business, but urethane paint is different, it runs easily. Andy is 100% correct about the surface being properly sanded. The final product will only look as good as the prep work. I documented all this with photos in my blog. I think it was last month, life is a blur with all that is going on with Anna. Today I finish fabricating the new belly pans. Hopefully next weekend the sound of a rivet gun and a bucking bar will be heard throughout the neighborhood.

If anyone needs any more info, PM me and I will see what I can help with. Good luck.
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Old 02-03-2008, 09:55 AM   #10
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To sand, or not to sand....that is the question...

Below is a cut from a Krylon website....

The tambours are almost a "krinkle" from the factory so sanding them is a moot point.

After over a year my encaps are showing absolutely no degradation of the paint job. I am perfectly satisfied with the quality. I used Krylon as a primer (no sanding) and used spray cans of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy (beige) as a cover coat.

The Krylon Fusion creates a chemical bond, sort of like an epoxy setting up - so sanding to create a surface for a mechanical bond is not necessary.






Fusion Paint for Plastic
Turn a treasured toy into something new again. Get many more years of enjoyment out of your outdoor patio furniture. And don't waste that waste paper basket - simply give it a new coat of paint.
  • The first no-prep, superbond paint for plastic
  • Indoor and outdoor use on most plastics
  • Dries in 15 minutes or less
  • No sanding or priming required
Recommended Surfaces:
Ceramic, plaster, glass, hard vinyl, metal, plastic, wicker, wood
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Old 02-03-2008, 03:03 PM   #11
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Thanks to all for the information! Now all I need is some 70' weather.
John
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