Need details on original drapes

[Mrs.Mod]

Pic#5 See how pleats are folded in both directions. Like folding a paper fan. On this particular panel, there are two pleats in between each elastic clip.


Pic#6 Female end of snap on a short tab. This is at the top of the curtain. The snap at the bottom is not on a tab, just on the curtain itself.


Pic#7 Meausured FINISHED height of curtains. I haven't checked yet to see if every panel is the same. I am duplicating one panel at a time so my replacements will be accurate. 34 1/2 inches tall. Christopher, I think my finished height was within a 1/4 inch so as you were saying, the elastics can make up for that.


Pic#8 Measured width of the original curtain with pleats. Consider extra length needed for pleats. Each pleats uses about an inch of fabric. Then I left 2 inches on each side for hem. I folded one inch over and then again for a 1 inch wide side hem. These curtains have velcro on the side hem to keep them shut. Velcro tape is less that an inch wide, so this hem will accomodate that.


Our TT doesn't live at our house when we are not using it. Mr. Mod keeps it at work. I'll go tomorrow and take some pics of my finished panels. I very pleased with the way they turned out.

[blickcd]

Good stuff. Exactly what I was looking for. Looks like your pleats are spaced about 2" on center. So you are just making a fold, then sewing about a 4" straight line down from the top, roughly 1/2" from the folded edge? Looks great for being so simple.

I am surprised that those T-glides let the drape hang down. I would have thought the T would be flush with the top edge, but I suppose the valance will hide the gap.

What is the placement of the G-glide at the bottom? My thought was that the bottom of that glide is to be flush with the bottom of the drape but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for all the photos,
Christopher

[Mrs.Mod]

Originally Posted by blickcd

Good stuff. Exactly what I was looking for. Looks like your pleats are spaced about 2" on center. So you are just making a fold, then sewing about a 4" straight line down from the top, roughly 1/2" from the folded edge? Looks great for being so simple.

I am surprised that those T-glides let the drape hang down. I would have thought the T would be flush with the top edge, but I suppose the valance will hide the gap.

What is the placement of the G-glide at the bottom? My thought was that the bottom of that glide is to be flush with the bottom of the drape but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for all the photos,
Christopher

Yes, they are spaced 2 inches. Start in the center so you have a perfectly centered pleat and work your way to the sides. Then do the bottom. Yes, sew a straight line about 1/2 inch from the fold. You are correct.
The valance does hide the gap. There is elastic exposed on the originals too. If the clips were flush, I think it would make it to rigid (for lack of a better term). I imagine it might not slide easily.
I left about 3/4 of and inch of elastic exposed between the clip and edge of curtain. I'll get of picture of that on my new panels tomorrow.
Also, look at some of my images on my profile. There are a few interior pics of my TT. You can seen where curtains are in the bedroom and in living room. The bedroom is completely wrapped in curtains. Almost no wall is exposed. I was considering making less panels for the bedroom just to cover the window and leaving walls exposed. I'll decide that when I get to the bedroom.
I looked at some of your pics from your blog. Are you missing some or all of your tracks?
There is also ela

[blickcd]

I checked out your photos and saw how the drapes have a gap at top and bottom, that is with the glides exposed at both. I might try to make mine flush at the bottom, making a single test panel out of scrap first to see how it works.

You are correct that my lower tracks are missing. The only original lower track left is under the front window. All original upper tracks are still in place. Since I live in SW Ohio I drove to Jackson Center one day and bought full length 11' sections of track, since its impossible to have anyone ship that uncut. Two full lengths will be needed for the bedroom, with a splice centered below the rear window, which I assume is how it is done.

[rettoc625]

Mrs. Mod I have a question for you since you appear to be working on the same project I am starting. Curtains. I have assumed my panels are relatively perfect rectangles as most curtain panels are. But when I measure I see that they are really trapazoids with the top/bottom off by 2 inches and the left/right off by an inch. Do you know if this is an intentional design detail to accommodate the curvature of the front window or just stretched fabric due to age? I also notice the panels are not cut with the grain of the fabric.

What is your experience?
Thanks.
Mary in CT

[Mrs.Mod]

Originally Posted by rettoc625

Mrs. Mod I have a question for you since you appear to be working on the same project I am starting. Curtains. I have assumed my panels are relatively perfect rectangles as most curtain panels are. But when I measure I see that they are really trapazoids with the top/bottom off by 2 inches and the left/right off by an inch. Do you know if this is an intentional design detail to accommodate the curvature of the front window or just stretched fabric due to age? I also notice the panels are not cut with the grain of the fabric.

What is your experience?
Thanks.
Mary in CT

Hi Mary,
I haven't gotten to the front window yet. I'm waiting for my order of pleat tape to arrive in the mail. My plan is to duplicate each panel one at a time for accuracy.
Christopher had asked me that question, if the panels are all straight rectangles. I wasn't sure since I haven't taken those down yet. I guess you just answered our question! I suppose it makes sense that an extra 2 inches would accomodate the curve.
Mary, are your curtain original? Something handmade by someone in the past? Mine are factory replacements from the late 80's (I found the reciept from the PO).
I'm hoping my pleat tape will arrive any day, then I can resume curtain making. The front window curtain will be next.
Mary, stay tuned, and please share your findings also!

[Mrs.Mod]

Originally Posted by blickcd

I checked out your photos and saw how the drapes have a gap at top and bottom, that is with the glides exposed at both. I might try to make mine flush at the bottom, making a single test panel out of scrap first to see how it works.

You are correct that my lower tracks are missing. The only original lower track left is under the front window. All original upper tracks are still in place. Since I live in SW Ohio I drove to Jackson Center one day and bought full length 11' sections of track, since its impossible to have anyone ship that uncut. Two full lengths will be needed for the bedroom, with a splice centered below the rear window, which I assume is how it is done.

Good morning, Christopher!
I made a test panel too. Good idea.
I have seen some photos of curtains that are not attached at the bottom. I don't care for the look. The hang down and sort of away from the wall. I'll get some photos of my tracks as my curtains come down. Good thing you have the lower track at the front window. That one has a curve. So does the one at the rear window. The rest are straight. If my memory serves me correctly, there is a splice in the center.

[rettoc625]

Hi Mrs Mod! I think the lesson I just learned is NEVER expect 90 degree angle in a curved trailer! Not even the curtains! My curtains are original, about 10 years old they are in good shape but i am in a redecorating mood! I double checked the length of the tracks on the window and sure enough the top track is about 9 inches shorter than the bottom track so the curtain dimensions appear to be accurate. They always fit tight. My plan was to add a bit to the overall width so they would be a little less snug. I am hoping I won't have to do much custom fitting once the panels are sewn together. But if so I will. I am only making two panels, not four short ones. I cut the panels to the longest length and will fit as I go. Almost like tailoring!

Do you know where to purchase the large snaps to attach them to the wall? I hope I can find them in a good home dec department. They are much larger than dressmaker snaps.

Mary in CT

[idroba]

Originally Posted by rettoc625

(snip)
Do you know where to purchase the large snaps to attach them to the wall? I hope I can find them in a good home dec department. They are much larger than dressmaker snaps.

Mary in CT

The snaps are available at many hardware stores along with the tool needed to set them. They are also very commonly available at marine stores, as it is the type which are used for boat covers.

When I made the curtains for my 20' Argosy (yes, a man who sews, but mostly enjoys repairing sewing machines) I used a single fold front pleat, and a single fold rear pleat, and used pleating tape which I was able to get at my local chain fabric shop. My pleats are 6" on center for the front, which, with the rear pleat, makes them 3" pleat to pleat.

On the front windows, I never gave it a thought about the difference in length, top and bottom tracks. I can't imagine making variable pleats and ever having them hang right. When installed, I guess my pleats at the top of the curtains just are closer together than at the bottom in closed position. The elastic and tabs compensate for a lot of minor things I believe. They look great as they are at any rate.

The problem I had was finding good self lined curtain material at a reasonable price. My solution was to search the chain stores for pre made curtains which often are available in "room darkening" (self lined, rubber backed) material. I then cut the material I needed out of the original drapes. My final choice came from Wal Mart, and the pre made, self lined drapes I chose for the material and pattern I liked came to less than $100. So, to be clear, I used pre made drapes for the material only. I did not use any of the original hanging systems or edges.

Self lined fabric, at least in my area, is virtually unavailable at any cost, and I thought this solution worked out very well. So well that I have another set to make for my 22' Argosy which I am restoring now.

On the pleats, I do like someone's suggestion to start in the center and work to the ends. I now can see that would be a good way to do things vs. starting at one end and working to the other. I had my worst problems not with the pleats, but with making the ends come out right, straight and not lumpy, with all of the materials that had to be turned over to hide the edges.

With my sewing machine repair hobby, I now have a serger, which I am thinking of using on some edges to make things simpler and less bulky. Do the sewers out there have any thoughts on that. I have repaired sergers, and know how they work, but other than testing for good operation, have never used one on any sewing project. They scare me a little, as they not only finish the edge, but cut, and once things are cut there is no going back to do it over again.

[rettoc625]

Originally Posted by idroba

The snaps are available at many hardware stores along with the tool needed to set them. They are also very commonly available at marine stores, as it is the type which are used for boat covers.

When I made the curtains for my 20' Argosy (yes, a man who sews, but mostly enjoys repairing sewing machines) I used a single fold front pleat, and a single fold rear pleat, and used pleating tape which I was able to get at my local chain fabric shop. My pleats are 6" on center for the front, which, with the rear pleat, makes them 3" pleat to pleat.

On the front windows, I never gave it a thought about the difference in length, top and bottom tracks. I can't imagine making variable pleats and ever having them hang right. When installed, I guess my pleats at the top of the curtains just are closer together than at the bottom in closed position. The elastic and tabs compensate for a lot of minor things I believe. They look great as they are at any rate.

The problem I had was finding good self lined curtain material at a reasonable price. My solution was to search the chain stores for pre made curtains which often are available in "room darkening" (self lined, rubber backed) material. I then cut the material I needed out of the original drapes. My final choice came from Wal Mart, and the pre made, self lined drapes I chose for the material and pattern I liked came to less than $100. So, to be clear, I used pre made drapes for the material only. I did not use any of the original hanging systems or edges.

Self lined fabric, at least in my area, is virtually unavailable at any cost, and I thought this solution worked out very well. So well that I have another set to make for my 22' Argosy which I am restoring now.

On the pleats, I do like someone's suggestion to start in the center and work to the ends. I now can see that would be a good way to do things vs. starting at one end and working to the other. I had my worst problems not with the pleats, but with making the ends come out right, straight and not lumpy, with all of the materials that had to be turned over to hide the edges.

With my sewing machine repair hobby, I now have a serger, which I am thinking of using on some edges to make things simpler and less bulky. Do the sewers out there have any thoughts on that. I have repaired sergers, and know how they work, but other than testing for good operation, have never used one on any sewing project. They scare me a little, as they not only finish the edge, but cut, and once things are cut there is no going back to do it over again.

My curtains don't have pleats. The later model international AS have panels that are self pleating when open and flat across the window when closed for privacy. The construction process is relatively straight forward. Fabric stores like Joann Fabrics with good home decorating departments sell blackout drapery lining fabric for about 6 bucks a yard (I used a 20 percent off coupon for bigger savings). Joann sells it online too. You can also buy self pleating header tape for about $1-2 a yard. I like your suggestion of buying heavy duty snaps at a hard ware store or marine shop. Here along the coast of Connecticut we do have a few

Using a serger is a great idea! I wish I had thought to use mine.

This forum is great! We all have different problems with the same project but together we share some fabulous solutions!
Thanks!
Mary in CT

[blickcd]

My plan for the front windows was to make the width match the longer bottom track. The pleats will always be closer to each other around the top edge of the inside corner but I don't think that will look bad. I could always make a template out of newspaper first and see how it lays up. Mrs. Mod, I think you will get to that point before me so you will have to keep me filled in.

Now I wasn't planning on using any blackout backing, since all living room windows are fitted with pull-down shades. The front window area though, the pull-down shade is only as wide as the large center operable window. No shades for the smaller curved front windows that flank it. I had thought about sewing blackout backing into my front drapes, only where it will land in front of those little windows, plus some overlap.

That will make for different thicknesses in the drapery panel and I'm not sure if that would cause wrinkles or other problems later. If anyone has any advice there it is welcome.

Christopher

[loudruff]

Our 1989 Excella is fitted with pull down shades in all of the windows, including the "in the door" window. WalMarts that carry the pull down shades will cut them to fit (just like in the old days). So look and see if your old shade hardware may still be there to use. We bought light blocking pull down shades which help. When I remake our curtains I will also use the light blocking material between the lining and the front panel.
Sounds like everyone is very ambitious!!

[blickcd]

I finally started making my drapes today. Thanks to everyone who gave some helpful advice. I've taken a few photos and once the project is well under way I'll post some blog entries giving some real in depth details.

Attached is a photo of the first panel I made, which took a few hours, though that included some obsessive measuring and cutting for another panel as well.

The fabric used is an ivory colored suede, which will look really nice with the gaucho that I reupolstered in suede. Normal cost is $26 per yard but I got it 50% off. A real bargain since I calculated needing 12 yards of the stuff.

Also attached is a photo of my cozy sweat shop I have set up. It only made sense to work out in the trailer where I could spontaneously measure for a proper fit and check any other details.

Christopher

[Mrs.Mod]

Wow! I'm very impressed! Great job! Now you know what you're doing, it will go faster! Can't wait to see the finished pics!

[blickcd]

It should turn out well. Due to other obligations it might take a little time. Thanks Mrs. Mod.

Christopher

[rettoc625]

Nice job Christopher. If I knew how to post pictures to the forum I would add pics of my work!

Mary in CT

[Suzzeee]

Love those suede drapes !!

[blickcd]

Here are a few more progress photos. Things are starting to look real now. I'll post a play-by-play of this to my blog later, but for now I'd rather work on sewing.

[blickcd]

I've started some blog entries covering the details of this project. Check it out if you like. More will be posted later.

Christopher

[Mrs.Mod]

Beautiful! Aren't you glad you didn't eliminate the pleats now? They look professionally made. Kudos to you, you should be very proud of your work!
I haven't finished mine yet, STILL waiting for my pleat tape to arrive. I'm gonna call the company I ordered it from tomorrow. It's been over 6 weeks.
No worry though, I have a bazillion projects in the meantime.