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Old 11-12-2006, 07:07 AM   #21
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I disagree with that, the overall R value must average out higher.

Example years ago my grandparents had a home with no insulation in the attic or floors, just the walls.

One year they added insulation to the attic, there was a big improvement.

A few years later they did the floors, another big improvement.

The walls only had 2", the attic and floor had 4".

Based on your theory a house would have the R value of its windows, not!

I added Prodex to the floors (inside) and every wall that I opened up, maybe 40 Sq ft.

Everyplace else like in cabinets and under the sink, wheel wells, behind the built in sofa, the walls under the bed platforms will have Prodex glued in place.

This MUST help how could it not increase the overall R value?
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Old 11-12-2006, 07:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
I disagree with that, the overall R value must average out higher.

Example years ago my grandparents had a home with no insulation in the attic or floors, just the walls.

One year they added insulation to the attic, there was a big improvement.

A few years later they did the floors, another big improvement.

The walls only had 2", the attic and floor had 4".

Based on your theory a house would have the R value of its windows, not!

I added Prodex to the floors (inside) and every wall that I opened up, maybe 40 Sq ft.

Everyplace else like in cabinets and under the sink, wheel wells, behind the built in sofa, the walls under the bed platforms will have Prodex glued in place.

This MUST help how could it not increase the overall R value?
Hey Lippets; I need a break. Yes insulation helps this is why we install it. We are not talking about a house. Most modern house windows are thermal, in AS they are not. We are talking about the difference in R value between having for instance a 20% of bubble foil and 80% of original fiberglass insulation in the trailer. The 20% of sectional added bubble insulation will not make that much difference in overall R value of the trailer. "Boatdoc"
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Old 11-12-2006, 08:30 AM   #23
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foil bubble insulation?

i use it in my chicken coop, works good and keeps the birds at least 20 degrees warmer. however, the pullets like to pop the bubbles when they get bored.

not bad for basiclly a plywood box. i could see some applications in a trailer, some say the factory now uses it in some applications.

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Old 11-12-2006, 08:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
I am currently doing a partial floor replacement in my 68 Safari. Following the process that Stefroberts made almost famous, I took my lower interior panels off. Most of the insulation looks ok, but there are some spots that look pretty bad. I am interested in using the foil insulation due to it being waterproof, very efficient, and shapable. Has anyone in the past used this? If so did you double the thickness to fill the entire space, or just use a single sheet? Also, anyone know the rivet size for placing the panels back into the ribs once I finish?

Thanks,

SM
I learned from my research that the foil bubble works best if used continuously, and without gaps. It needs airspace on both sides to work properly. It also needs to be joined meticulously to perform at it's best.
AS a matter of fact, joining the sheets, and sealing the seams took just about as long as installing the material, in my case.
I imagine that it could work well as a partial insulation, so long that you seal it tightly against the ribs.
The insulation in my 1963 Overlander works remarkably well on hot days, as well as on cool nights. I would definitely use it again. The brand I used was Reflectix.
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Old 11-12-2006, 08:59 AM   #25
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Holy Cow

The general concensus is to use this type of insulation. There should be an air gap on both sides...I could see using styrofoam blocks as spacers on the outer and inner skin. THe edges at the ribs should be caulked or taped to make it work better. Have I left anything out?
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Old 11-12-2006, 11:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
The general concensus is to use this type of insulation. There should be an air gap on both sides...I could see using styrofoam blocks as spacers on the outer and inner skin. THe edges at the ribs should be caulked or taped to make it work better. Have I left anything out?
Hey soldiermedic; You got it right.

Air gap on both sides by use of spacers.
Edges should be caulked with solid bead to form a vapor barrier.
No spacers are needed on inner skins if you glue the insulation to spacers on the outer skins.
Wires on top of bubble foil in case you ever have to replace them.
Make sure the insulation is not pushed in against the outer skins.
Good luck, "Boatdoc"
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Old 11-12-2006, 12:20 PM   #27
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I saw something that you can use the foils itself at the spacer material.

Cut 3/4" strips of the foil glue them on the metal.

Then place the insulation in.
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:33 PM   #28
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for what it's worth, i didn't caulk my edges. i just made all the foil nice and snug. everyghint is taped in with carpet tape, and shimmed on both sides to keep it spaced evenly. if i were to do it over again (and i know i will be doing it again), i would use Uwe's method of gluing to one side. and having the other side totally free. i haven't gotten to install any panels yet, but when i do, it i should need to fish a wire through, and a spacer foam block is in the way, i'll pay for it.

i figure by the 4th or 5th one of tehse things, i'll have things figured out.



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Old 11-13-2006, 11:39 PM   #29
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Great Thread

This is such good info. Marking this thread for sure. I'm coming up on doing this soon, when we have the dough and buy supplies.
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