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Old 08-15-2020, 07:53 AM   #1
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Power and Generator Questions - Upgrading to 50amp

All,

Sorry in advance for being a dummy when it comes to my questions....

I have two Honda EU2200's that are set to run together and provide 30 amps. This was perfect for our International 25 (30 amp) coach. However, we have sold that and are awaiting delivery of our new Classic 33 in a few weeks. It is obviously a 50 amp coach.

First question...I assume I have a decision to make regarding my current generators (keep or change). If I keep them, I think I can run them in 30 amp configuration and that means I will just get one AC unit running. Given we don't boondock too often, I think we would be willing to live with that arrangement. However, is there a good reason to get a generator that will throw 50 amps other than the AC example?

In regards to power, I have purchased the appropriate dogbone (50 to 30 amp) in the event a campground does not have 50 amp service. In addition, we have 30 amp service available at storage. Anything I should be aware of in this situation other than again...can only run one AC?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-15-2020, 08:02 AM   #2
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I have a 50 amp Flying Cloud with 2 air-condition units and Honda eu2200i and eu2200i Companion generators. I installed Micro Air Easy Starts on both ACs. I can run a either AC on a single generator, or I can run both AC units with the 2 generators in parallel.

Install the Easy Starts and you'll be able to have both operational on your existing generators.

As a "bonus", I have converted both generators to run on propane so I can use the quick connect on the front of the trailer and not worry about extra bottles or gasoline cans.
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Old 08-15-2020, 08:21 AM   #3
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There's a lot of good reasons to have a big generator, especially a quiet one. Honda and Yamaha both make 6000-7000 w. generators.
The downside is cost and size. Neither will fit under a tonneau (28")
and lifting them is out of the question. (200#)
You could parallel two Honda 3000's and get 47 amps. but again the weight and cost seem foolhardy. You'll also be filling up two generators, although the Honda 3000 can probably go 10 hours on a tank.
I'd say keep your two 2200 for the times you just want a quick stop or an overnight without power.
I don't see a Classic 33 being without power very often.
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:07 PM   #4
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Thanks all...I will look into the easy start ... however, something I read somewhere on the forum suggests that the new air conditioners in the 2021’s are not compatible with the easy starts from Microair????
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Old 08-16-2020, 10:46 AM   #5
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Which propane conversion did you use? Any thoughts, comments, advice on that process?
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Old 08-16-2020, 11:19 AM   #6
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Keep what you got and try it for a while. I won't boondock in summer unless forced to. So my two Hondas work for me
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Old 08-16-2020, 11:46 AM   #7
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Thanks all...I will look into the easy start ... however, something I read somewhere on the forum suggests that the new air conditioners in the 2021’s are not compatible with the easy starts from Microair????
That myth has been debunked. You can install MicroAir Easy Start devices on your units.
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Old 08-16-2020, 11:51 AM   #8
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Which propane conversion did you use? Any thoughts, comments, advice on that process?
I went with Hutch Mountain. They have excellent customer service. Give them a call and they'll explain everything you need to purchase and will take the order during the call. I received my items within 5 days of placing the order.

Their instructions for the conversion were detailed and easy to follow. I converted 2 Honda generators in less than 1 hour total. If you can turn a screwdriver, you can install this conversion kit.
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Old 08-16-2020, 12:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by dmassey321 View Post
Thanks all...I will look into the easy start ... however, something I read somewhere on the forum suggests that the new air conditioners in the 2021’s are not compatible with the easy starts from Microair????
That's because Dometic installed their own version, so another is not needed.
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Old 08-16-2020, 12:29 PM   #10
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MicroAire Easy Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmassey321 View Post
Thanks all...I will look into the easy start ... however, something I read somewhere on the forum suggests that the new air conditioners in the 2021’s are not compatible with the easy starts from Microair????
I had an Easy Start put on my Dometic Penguin AC the middle of July for a 4 day fishing trip the end of July. What an improvement in operating efficiency without the compressor making all that noise when engaging. It would sometimes seem to shake my 25 ft. Sovereign. When I started it the first time, after 4-5 seconds I could barely hear the compressor start. It ran for the 4 days quieter than it ever had. I can vouch for the Easy Start.
I was so impressed that I went back to the guy who installed it, I had it sitting in a drawer for over 6 months after purchasing, and gave him my impressions. He was glad to hear it and told me that some of the new Dometics had soft starts on top of the compressor but they were smaller than the one he installed on my Penguin. He also said he has had to replace a few of the new smaller ones because they didn't last.
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Old 08-16-2020, 01:38 PM   #11
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Post #1: I had the same problem. A Yamaha 3000 will power up one A/C with EasyStart but, not both. So I bought a Yamaha EF6300iSDE. Each A/C is on its own leg of AC with 22 amps. Since both units are heavier than my lifting ability I now have a winch lift installed in my truck's right rear bed corner. Also, for maintenance and service, in my shop, I bought a 1000# hydraulic lift work table. Now that is handy! All this requires an A.R.E. camper shell. And, they are well built by the Amish.
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Old 08-16-2020, 03:52 PM   #12
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Experienced Honda Conversion Person

I was wondering if there is anyone in the Eugene, Oregon area that has experience converting a Honda 2000i generator over to the Hutch Mountain propane kit.
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Old 08-16-2020, 04:19 PM   #13
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Which propane conversion did you use? Any thoughts, comments, advice on that process?
There are a lot of options, but many are clumsy looking with hardware hanging outside the case of the generator that can get banged around and caught on things during travel and when moving around the truck bed. The Hutch mountain kit has a big regulator that goes on the end of the hose that attaches to your remote 20# propane bottle (if that is your method of choice...it is mine). The Genconnex kit is a clean install that fits inside the existing casing. The propane line hooks up to a fitting where the gas cap used to be. It's a slick install and is my personal preference. Keep in mind I had no desire for dual-fuel/ability to use gasoline. Propane is plentiful and nearly as easy to source as gasoline, and less mess, odor, and transport issues. Plus propane does't stink as much when the generator is burning. Lots of options and preferences for all...
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Old 09-02-2020, 09:43 PM   #14
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I also have a question regarding running a 50A coach (28ft FC Tommy Bahama). I just picked her up yesterday, and this is our first RV. I have a 3500 generator that I thought would allow us to run AC unit, but I keep getting an error on the AC control unit (E7). It appears that because I’m not running a 50A generator, she still wants to run on battery.
I did switch over to a 7500 generator that I have for our house, that worked great and the AC turned right on.
Is this a normal issue? Do I need two 3500 generators tied together to run the RV? I did have one of the zones on the controller “off” when I was trying to run the 3500 generator. Is that confusing?

Any help to figure this out would be helpful. I haven’t felt this confused since I started playing golf.
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Old 09-02-2020, 09:58 PM   #15
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I also have a question regarding running a 50A coach (28ft FC Tommy Bahama). I just picked her up yesterday, and this is our first RV. I have a 3500 generator that I thought would allow us to run AC unit, but I keep getting an error on the AC control unit (E7). It appears that because I’m not running a 50A generator, she still wants to run on battery.
I did switch over to a 7500 generator that I have for our house, that worked great and the AC turned right on.
Is this a normal issue? Do I need two 3500 generators tied together to run the RV? I did have one of the zones on the controller “off” when I was trying to run the 3500 generator. Is that confusing?

Any help to figure this out would be helpful. I haven’t felt this confused since I started playing golf.
One would expect a 3500 watt generator could power a single AC unit. To enable the vast majority of your generator output to be diverted to the AC, be sure that you only have the other AC shut off, and make sure the fridge is not on electric, the water heater is running on gas, and the batteries are not charging (i.e. converter breaker is switched off).

If this is something you plan on doing often, consider installing MicroAir Easy Starts on your AC units. I have done this, and I can run either AC unit on a Honda 2200 generator, or I can run both AC units on 2 Honda 2200 generators running in parallel.
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Old 09-03-2020, 09:54 AM   #16
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One would expect a 3500 watt generator could power a single AC unit. To enable the vast majority of your generator output to be diverted to the AC, be sure that you only have the other AC shut off, and make sure the fridge is not on electric, the water heater is running on gas, and the batteries are not charging (i.e. converter breaker is switched off).



If this is something you plan on doing often, consider installing MicroAir Easy Starts on your AC units. I have done this, and I can run either AC unit on a Honda 2200 generator, or I can run both AC units on 2 Honda 2200 generators running in parallel.


Thanks for the notes. I tried again this morning. Radio off, no lights on, fridge on LP or off. I have to have the “battery disconnect” on, otherwise the AC controller doesn’t come on. One of the two zones off, but still getting E7 error.
Am I missing something?

This is humbling..

Thanks again...
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Old 09-03-2020, 10:30 AM   #17
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Thanks for the notes. I tried again this morning. Radio off, no lights on, fridge on LP or off. I have to have the “battery disconnect” on, otherwise the AC controller doesn’t come on. One of the two zones off, but still getting E7 error.
Am I missing something?

This is humbling..

Thanks again...
Leave the battery disconnect in the on position. Go to your breaker panel and shut off the circuit for the converter.

While I haven't done an exhaustive set of experiments on my kit, I note that the only time I've gotten the E7 error on generator power is when I neglected to turn off the converter. I haven't had trouble when fridge and/or water heater kicked on, but that could be due to timing/chance as much as anything else.
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Old 09-03-2020, 10:42 AM   #18
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Leave the battery disconnect in the on position. Go to your breaker panel and shut off the circuit for the converter.



While I haven't done an exhaustive set of experiments on my kit, I note that the only time I've gotten the E7 error on generator power is when I neglected to turn off the converter. I haven't had trouble when fridge and/or water heater kicked on, but that could be due to timing/chance as much as anything else.


Dang it, tried that. Flicked the breaker for the converter (15A) still getting the E7 error.
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Old 09-03-2020, 11:09 AM   #19
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What 3500w generator are you using? Does it have a 30A 120v RV output, or a twist-lock output, or...?

There are some brands that have a 240v output for the high-amp side and all the 120v outlets are 15a... you might also have a bad 30A-to-50A adapter that's only energizing one of the 2 hot legs of the 50A inlet.

When you get the E7 error, is the generator going into overload or throwing a breaker? Or are you never getting 120V from that generator at all and the E7 hits immediately when you tell the AC to start?
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Old 09-03-2020, 11:42 AM   #20
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I would expect a 3500 inverter generator to run a single AC. My guess is as outlined above that that particular generator has two 15 amp circuits for 110.
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