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Old 12-02-2023, 10:04 AM   #1
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2023 25' Globetrotter
Ancient City , Florida
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Parasitic stand by loads

Planning a couple week long boondocking trips in our 25fb (electric fridge)
Plan on upgrading batteries before trip. Currently have 300w rooftop and will add 200 portable.
Are their parasitic standby loads to look out for? TV, Stereo, WH that I should pay attention to, throw breakers etc?

Will probably change charger and maybe converter at same time as the current fan drives me nuts at night.

Inverter use would be extremely limited.

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-02-2023, 10:27 AM   #2
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I keep fantastic fan on 0 even though it is off as I understand the rain sensor (and red light ) still consume battery even when off.

Other than that make sure there are no storage lights on by accident
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Old 12-02-2023, 10:42 AM   #3
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Propane detector is hot wired and always on; in my trailer it draws about 3Ah per day. Other things to watch for are the radio memory (remove faceplate took care of it in my case), and power to tv antenna which can be switched off.

If battery upgrade is to lithium, make certain that the converter and solar are set to lithium, and get a shunt based battery monitor (like Victron 712) or you will have no real idea of the state of charge of the batteries.

If you track the SOC, deploy the portable panels as needed, and get decent solar conditions you should be ok.
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Old 12-02-2023, 11:12 AM   #4
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Your heater blower and electric / compressor fridge may be the most battery demand. If you keep fridge closed hour or two before sundown. Possibly throw some helping gel frozen packs in fridge it may not need to cycle as much overnight.
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Old 12-02-2023, 11:18 AM   #5
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We have the same year and model. In addition to the 300W on the roof, I added 4x100Ah lithium batteries, a Victron shunt, and have 2x200W external panels (700W total). With that we can go about a week unplugged in the summer with decent solar running judiciously: computers, cellular router, and Starlink (80W/hr total). We also adjust the refrigerator down (up?) so it keeps things barely frozen.

So, I'm not sure if going to 2x100Ah lithium with 500W solar will get you a week (if anybody's asking). If you don't have the other devices like us, perhaps. Overstating the obvious, after installing upgrades, including installing the shunt (mandatory with lithium IMHO) I'd try see how long power lasts in the driveway unplugged (or get some idea of normal usage).

I believe your converter will also have the infamous WFCO AD charger which is supposed to auto-detect lithium but is unreliable. Besides the fan noise, it's probably not a bad idea to replace the charger. The Progressive Dynamics charger has a good reputation but I went with a Victron Phoenix, more expensive but optimizes charging in conjunction with our other Victron equipment.

As far as other parasitic loads, the powered TV antenna is one that sometimes gets overlooked. I don't think it uses much but over time it doesn't hurt to turn it off if not using the TV.
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Old 12-03-2023, 10:31 AM   #6
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Go to 600ah of lithium and 600 watts of solar.
Or, take a Honda 1000 for charging.
Look at Goal Zero Yeti Pro 4000.
I would not attempt to boondock without more capacity. If you want to enjoy the quiet, then get a Yeti and several panels.
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Old 12-03-2023, 10:31 AM   #7
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Hi

The typical inverter acts as a parasitic load. Folks have reported some pretty major current going into them.

The best approach is to put in a full disconnect switch. That way you don't have to wonder if all the loads are shut down.

Bob
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Old 12-03-2023, 02:16 PM   #8
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Several people have mentioned propane detectors, etc. that are safety devices. Of course, it behooves you to leave these operational when boondocking. uncle_bob mentioned the manual on/off switch - that's useful when the RV is stored and you want to ensure no battery power is drained by parasitic loads.

Be sure you know how to turn off your inverter when it's not in use. Our inverter, just having it turned on, drains nearly 2 amps and that's continuous - regardless of whether I'm actually using an inverter receptacle.

Upgrading the charger/converter/inverter is a good idea. At a minimum, be sure you have a precision shunt in the system and a readout so you can monitor the power draw. It's easy to leave a few lights on here or there, use a fan, etc. and not realize how much power you're consuming. The precision shunt and readout will aid in monitoring the state of charge (SOC) and other parameters related to your electrical system. There are lots of threads on the topic.
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Old 12-04-2023, 12:13 AM   #9
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Don't forget about the sub woofer. Another parasitic draw.
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Old 12-04-2023, 06:56 AM   #10
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Lots of good info. Thank you
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Old 12-04-2023, 07:46 AM   #11
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Hi

Just to be clear: even when the inverter is turned off, it still may be pulling 1/4A or so. It's hard wired direct to the batteries. There is no way to eliminate this load without a full disconnect (either a switch or pulling the cable). The propane detector that everybody is bothered by likely pulls 1/10th the current that the inverter does when it is shut off.

Bob
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Old 12-05-2023, 03:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Just to be clear: even when the inverter is turned off, it still may be pulling 1/4A or so. It's hard wired direct to the batteries. There is no way to eliminate this load without a full disconnect (either a switch or pulling the cable). The propane detector that everybody is bothered by likely pulls 1/10th the current that the inverter does when it is shut off.

Bob
This had me wondering, so I contacted the Progressive Dynamics tech guy who was trying to diagnose my remote problem*. This is what he tells me for our 1000W PD 1610:

On: He said it draws 1.68A with no loads.
Off:
Quote:
There is a current draw to be able to turn on the display and the processors . That is in the range of 17-20mA. If there is a remote attached that will add another 12 mA.
So, maybe 32mA at the top end. In a week that would consume 168hr *.032A = 5.38Ah, so not very much.

*YAWI (Yet Another Warranty Item)
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Old 12-16-2023, 04:04 PM   #13
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Most of the safety features (carbon monoxide, LP sensor, and tire sensors for example), will bypass the DC disconnect switch.
In the Airstream this is the "use/store" switch which is often by the front door.

If you are trying to eliminate DC parasite loads, I would recommend the following:

-Put Airstream in "store" mode on the DC disconnect switch
-Remove all Positive loads from the battery
-Place all 12V positive leads on a junction post
-Produce a cable from said junction post to a Blue Sea Mini On/OFF switch
-Produce a cable from Mini ON/OFF to the battery-positive terminal

Boom, no more parasites.

This is a must if you transition to lithium in the future, which you should!
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