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04-17-2018, 09:33 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2005 25' Safari
Minneapolis
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
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Help figuring out lot size?
We have a 2005 25ft Safari and a beautiful plot of land to park it on this summer (Grand Marais, MN)
Access to the land with our trailer is not an issue. However, the spot we picked out for parking it on needs be cleared of trees, graded and a gravel pad laid down. My question, what is the best way to determine the amount of space we need to be cleared?
Meaning - how much space should we allow for around the sides, front, back, etc. What other things should we be thinking about or considering?
There are power lines nearby but no electric, water or sewage hookups. So, for this first year we will be learning a lot about boondocking.
I've googled and searched on this forum, but have not found any good resources, rules of thumb or tips. We are newbies here...if that isn't obvious!
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04-17-2018, 10:16 PM
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#2
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Len and Jeanne
2005 16' International CCD
2015 19' Flying Cloud
Creston Valley
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,793
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Probably there is some mathematical formula based on the length of your trailer and tow vehicle, but darned if I know. If it were me, I would really think of a gently curved pull-through vs. a back-in site. Notably if the area beyond your gravel will still be wooded. Regardless, I would suggest allowing for a margin of error with the width of your site, and no sharp right-angle back-in.
If this is your land and you will be boondocking for a while, I do suggest you think about how you will hygienically dispose of your black and gray water. Can you put in septic system or count on a local "honey wagon" service to pump out your waste water?
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04-18-2018, 12:40 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,952
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Normally, the question you are asking is simply a factor of your turning radius, the type of clearance you want from tree hazards and the view you desire.
A normal walking path is 3ft wide, so assume 4ft clearance on the back and drivers side, a driveway 12 ft wide on the front and a recreation pad 12ft by the length of the trailer.
If you have a lot of campfires, contact the local fire department for a clearance recommendation.
Not sure that is what you wanted, but it's a starting point.
Additional considerations include space for a waste lateral field.
Separation of your well from that field.
Emergency access to the property.
Space for additional structures.
Additional clearance for an AS garage structure.
Space for a storm shelter.
Sounds like a fun project. Pat
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04-18-2018, 03:46 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2019 30' International
Pennsylvania
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,234
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You could visit the local campground and measure a few that you like
I park our flying cloud 25 in a 24x36 garage and that easily allows me to open all the awnings and gives me plenty of room to walk around the whole thing. Plus on the road side there's probably another 6 feet to the wall.
If you want a fire pit on site like at a campground I'd go wider, maybe 32x36 or so.
And, you'd then need to figure tow vehicle length if you want to park right in front of the trailer like at a campground. Maybe add another 30 feet or more in length.
To be safe, and if you have plenty of room, I'd probably go with 36 feet wide and 72 feet long. (larger if you're thinking of renting it out some day to a Class A owner from Florida or something )
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04-18-2018, 05:39 AM
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#5
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.-. -...
2017 25' International
Niagara-on-the-Lake
, ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,836
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Be sure to allow enough space from any trees so that your awnings to be extended. It would be desirable to have the patio area under the awning to be well drained too. Be careful if there are any oak, chestnut, hickory trees etc near the airstream as they drop nuts that can dent your Airstream.
__________________
Ray B.
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04-18-2018, 05:50 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Lakes Region
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 815
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Go to a big parking lot and figure out what kind of maneuvers you comfortable with, you can use the lines as base markers and then get your measurements from there.
Know that a straight approach is completely visible from the road, a slight curve is recommended for some privacy. If necessary a front hitch can overcome a lot of access issues.
You don't mention solar, but if so, then sun angle, positioning, tree height and distance all come into play.
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04-18-2018, 06:36 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
Chestertown
, Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 32
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IF your going Solar, you will need to get the position of the sun at your site and cut enough to allow a good angle to your panels.
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04-18-2018, 09:30 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
1962 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,996
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Interblog had a nice write up on a spot they have in Canada that they just improved upon. Might reach out to them.
__________________
Hittenstiehl
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04-18-2018, 09:39 AM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Watertown
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 270
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In addition
In addition to what others have said, I'd want to leave enough trees to hide the trailer from the public road. No need to invite trouble. And I'd clear enough to make some space around the trailer in case of a forest fire - just like you would do for a cabin.
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04-18-2018, 09:39 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Taos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 566
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I would do a SWAG on size then add 50% width. You will probably want to have more space than you realize on the door side. And - good input above about solar.
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04-18-2018, 10:07 AM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
2016 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 389
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I'm in an old growth neighborhood in Atlanta. The trees are pretty, but they create a lot of mess. If I were parking outside for the summer, I wouldn't want any trees within about 100 feet of my rig. As for no water, sewer, or electric, how do you plan to manage? You could take about 20 panels and a power wall, but that only solves one-third of the equation. So tell us your plan....
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04-18-2018, 10:20 AM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
2016 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 389
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Regarding gravel, when I'm traveling, small rocks get trapped in the tread of my shoes and end up on the floor. If you are not careful, you can scratch the floors. Can you get gravel that has larger diameter rocks so the stuff stays outside? Perhaps you can't eliminate it, but you may be able to reduce it. Anyone else have any thoughts about this idea?
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04-18-2018, 11:35 AM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
2014 27' FB International
Hooper
, Utah
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 79
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I would go for the 36' X 72' You need space around the trailer, parking of your vehicle, etc
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04-18-2018, 11:52 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
2005 34' Classic
tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 160
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Also consider what else you want to do around your camper.
Is it just a parking spot or will you need room to entertain?
Will the grand children be over and you need room to throw a ball around?
Are there 'critters' in the woods and how comfortable are you with the trees next to your camper hiding them from your sight?
And about the trees, are they tall? How comfortable are you with the prospect of them falling over and/or dropping broken limbs on your camper?
Do you need room to build a shed to hold gas cans and generators?
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04-18-2018, 12:10 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
2011 27 FB International
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 258
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Pretty much what everybody said above; all good advice, but it would be my view that only you can determine the trees to clear. Theoretically you can park a 25 footer and have room to walk around it on a 10X30 gravel pad, but you should clearly want more than that. Consider that deadfalls can really put a dent in an Airstream.
Since you will be boondocking for at least the first year, keep in mind that you can extend you boondocking season by orienting the trailer, generally, North-South. The long side of the Airstream absorbs more solar energy, and therefore heats up more quickly on cool mornings, if the long side is oriented to the sun rise. The awnings will assist with the other side of that coin by providing shade in the afternoon.
Oh, yes, dig your well uphill from your latrine (septic, dump pit, whatever).
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04-18-2018, 12:45 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Auckland
, New Zealand
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 138
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What I make sure for my rig if it is being parked up over non sealed ground long term is a slight slope side to side & end to end.
This prevents water from collecting under your rig and causing rust plus temp isues ect. Dosn't need much, then use blocks to level an take load off your suspension and tires with shade cloth covers.
Allow for good free air movement around and under rig and sun.
Rus
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04-20-2018, 07:35 AM
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#17
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1 Rivet Member
2005 25' Safari
Minneapolis
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coasttocoast
I'm in an old growth neighborhood in Atlanta. The trees are pretty, but they create a lot of mess. If I were parking outside for the summer, I wouldn't want any trees within about 100 feet of my rig. As for no water, sewer, or electric, how do you plan to manage? You could take about 20 panels and a power wall, but that only solves one-third of the equation. So tell us your plan....
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still figuring it all out but we are lucky to be close to town (5 min drive or bike). for water - fill up the tanks and then use sparingly. maybe use portables to top it off, not sure. electric - for the first year, not sure. Probably not going to use much and take a "camping" mentality. We are looking into solar but need to see what the tree canopy is like. other option is a generator, but again we need more experience to sort out what it is we need. sewage - there is a honey wagon service so we are looking into that. long term - our friends cabin on the land will have a toilet we can use
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