Generator

[JDS]

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

My advice is to look at the Yamaha 2400 iHSC. Compare it to the Honda 2000. It was tested and rated in a comparison of generators and came out the champ. It costs more for a reason- more power, designed for motors (starting) with capacitor temp overload, direct drive versus, belt driven, has fuel gauge, available in tri-fuel (propane, gas, natural gas) versions, has longer life rating than Honda by Federal testing, etc, etc. Depending on what AC you have it will run that too. My 11,000 BTU unit works fine with it. I ordered the tri-fuel model and it works on my propane tank too. The #1 problem with generators is gummed carbs from old gasoline and occasional use. This is even more an issue with corn fuel ethanol. If you order from a Yamaha dealer WITH the conversion done by them, it is warranted. You can do it yourself too. As far as noise, they are about equal according to the test. The Honda was reported as quieter at an idle with no load but loaded it was louder. The Yamaha, quieter under a load than Honda. The ONLY negative I have ever heard is that it weighs about 25lbs more than the Honda but the extra power is nice in a single running unit. So, there ya go.

I second this recommendation. Originally wanted the Yamaha 2000 but the store was out so I got the 2400iHSC and am glad I did - the extra power is more than worth the extra 25lbs.
John S.

[handn]

Another rave for my Honda EU 2000.
It was snowing this morning in Fraser, Colorado (the ice box of the nation) and I went to start my Honda as my batteries were in the red as the furnace had run all night to keep my tin can in the high 40's. It ran for a few seconds and then shut off. The low oil light went on.
"Oh, Oh" I thought I have finally abused it to death. I had been running it for many hours out hunting this past month. It hasn't used oil in the past so I never checked the oil. My mistake.
I purchased oil and topped it off with about 4 ounces and it fired right up and ran as usual.
Previously we had been hunting in Dinosaur, Colorado and the inside was full of dust as the wind blew for 40 mph, enough to give the Airstream a real good shake.
My Honda keeps on ticking despite lots of abuse. After the hunting season, I am going to treat it to a full service and cleanup and.... check the oil once a week. I promise.

[Msmoto]

Just another question regarding using two generators and combining to get the output of one large (5000W). I am occasionally boon docked in southern Colorado (Las Animas County) and the sun is bright, temps in the high 80's to 90's. When I get the new Flying Cloud with two A/C units, I will need 50 Amps.

Can any two generators be wired together? And, is there an electronic control which would start the second generator when needed?

In 2010 I was in San Antonio with my 2009 27FB Int and the A/C was marginal in the daytime heat even when on shore power.

Thanks

[rodsterinfl]

Msmoto said, "Can any two generators be wired together? And, is there an electronic control which would start the second generator when needed?"

The hard answer is yes; however, only certain models come ready to do it. They have to be phased together. There are devices known as phase monitors that allow multiple generators to work together. It just depends how technical you want to go. Ready made units are known as companion models. There are other considerations too though with multiple generators- more fuel and maintenance.

On the matter of AIr conditioning, there is some misinformation I believe in the RV industry. Consider the BTU to room volume and insulation rating formulas then look at a typical Airstream. The formula goes like this:

Find the interior space volume LxWxH (my 25' is something like 23x8.08x6.29 or 1168.93 cu ft.)

Then use an exposure rating as a multiplier ( this is more accurate for a stationary home but...)
Primary exposure is to which direction. N=16, S=18, E=17 and W=20. In other words, are large walls, windows etc on the sunny side? RVs move so let's use the west or east multiplier at least.

So my volume times 20; 1168.93 x 20 = 23,378.6

Now consider the insulation factor. In this case, we will use the poorest rating---4. Divide the exposure product by 4

5844.65

So, what BTU rating is needed for my AS? 5845 BTU to cool it at most - poorest insulation, most sun exposure,etc.

I have a thought about the drier regions of the US and air conditioners. Don't drier climates benefit more from swamp coolers or other technologies rather than ac? I do not know this information always having dealt with cooling in humid climates.

[Msmoto]

My desire for a new unit is to be comfortable in all conditions. And, Airstream must have a reason for offering the second A/C unit on the 30 foot Flying Cloud. On the Outer Banks of North Carolina it can be quite warm, no shade, and I do not want to be warm.
As to using two generators, my brief research now suggests the Yamaha 6300 unit will run slow enough to be almost as economical as two 3000 watt units when only small power is needed. The disadvantage is the 200 lbs. which means it stays in the truck bed when boondocking and thus no A/C when away from the trailer. Price wise and considering maintenance one generator is much simpler to keep up and costs less initially as pointed out.
Once I get the new trailer I will test this out and report back to the forum.

[Phoenix]

Just my opinion, but I think if you plan on using one or more generators to power your air conditioner(s) without hookups, you will find several reasons why this may be impractical:

• Generators are loud. Even "quiet" units will become annoying if run 24/7.
  
  
• Some campgrounds may limit when, and for how long, you may run a generator. If it is a loud model, you may be asked to turn it off, or not use it all.
  
  
• Generators use a lot of fuel. If you run a generator under heavy load, like powering one or more air conditioning units, you will probably find that generator(s) may use almost as much fuel as leaving your TV running 24/7.
  
  
• Running generator(s) 24/7 will probably require that you either add a large auxiliary fuel tank, draw fuel from your TV tank, or leave your campsite to purchase fuel almost daily.

Consequently, if you camp where you need air conditioning 24/7, you may find it more convenient (and cheaper) to select an RV campground/resort that has full hookups.

In the desert southwest, we never camp where we need to run our generators 24/7. If we need air conditioning for extended periods, we look for a campground with full hookups. Or, in the summer, we head for the mountains and cooler weather.

We use our generators only for topping off the batteries, and for emergencies, like breaking down in the desert. In most cases, they run for only an hour or two per day, usually during breakfast and/or dinner.

[Msmoto]

Oh, I fully agree about the generator running all day. I currently have a motorhome with three A/C units and this will burn 1/2 gal or more diesel per hour or as much as $75 in a day, worst case scenario (10,000 watt gen). But, I have land in southern Colorado where I like to camp and want to run two A/C units to cool the unit for maybe four hours, then the evenings are usually cool. But this will require the larger generator for a short time.
Many areas, race tracks for example, have no hook ups so dry camping is required.

[mandolindave]

the 1000 has a higher pitch and some feel more annoying than the 2000

[cgullseeker]

put a little marvel mystery oil in ethanol gas for the Honda generators it will free up sticky vavles

[ROBERT CROSS]

I would be very careful what you add to the gas or oil of your generator.
A thimble full of stabil goes into the gas tank of ours before running the carb dry and draining the bowl prior to storage.

From a study of engine oil & fuel additives....

Detergents And Solvents

"Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts.
Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine."

Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene.

Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil.

In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things.

All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine.

As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past two decades."

The gas tank and crankcase are much smaller on our Honda 2000...how much to add is an obvious concern regardless of the additives effectiveness.

Bob

[AirChief]

I use only real gas in all my small motors and it makes a world of difference. I run the gas out of the gas lines. No need for other products. I do know some areas don't have much access to ethanol free, so then you don't have a choice. However, if you can get supreme unleaded, your motors will do much better.

[rodsterinfl]

After rereading the thread you may need to consider a large unit if your needs are hat great. I would research a specific model before jumping though. I would highly recommend Yamaha overall as they are direct drive not belt driven. Consider a tri fuel model that can run on propane no gumming and check the service life rating as it is a good indicator of the unit's life.

[Msmoto]

While the Yamaha 6300 would certainly be adequate for two A/C units, I am also considering two Honda 3000 watt units matched up so they would provide 6000 watts. When only one A/C is needed in boondocking only one generator would run.

Has anyone used a pair of Honda 3000 watt EU3000iS in parallel?