Southwest Dexter Lift Kit on 2017 Flying Cloud 23D

[afk314]

Will you report back on how this changing towing, if at all?

Thanks!

[sheriff1]

I did this lift on our 27FB. (RIP) Absolutely no difference in towing other than no more dragging going into gas stations etc. I'm 62 and put the kit on by myself, no real problem. No impact tool, just a long breaker bar. Just acquired a 2014 30' FC and have the kit ordered to do this one. I'll let you know in a week or so if it's as easy as I remembered...

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by afk314

Will you report back on how this changing towing, if at all?



Thanks!

Yes.... will do. First 20 mile trip no issues. Towed just as fine as before the lift. I will keep watching and report back.

[GettinAway]

Did you have to change anything on your hitch? Just curious.
Thx

[Cinmeredith]

WE have an appt. to have the lift installed on our 23FB. We need it for getting in and out of the driveway as well as allowing more ground clearance. Our dealer is experienced with installing lift kits. My husband considered doing it himself but once we talked to the dealer, made that decision.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Did you have to change anything on your hitch? Just curious.
Thx

Yes. I have an equalizer hitch. I had to increase the ball height 3 inches. I then re-did the setup from scratch and the number of washers stayed the same as well as the stabilizer bar height.

So in the end, all that was required was raising the hitch ball height by 3 inches.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by Cinmeredith

WE have an appt. to have the lift installed on our 23FB. We need it for getting in and out of the driveway as well as allowing more ground clearance. Our dealer is experienced with installing lift kits. My husband considered doing it himself but once we talked to the dealer, made that decision.

I wish my dealer could have done it! My dealer won't even call me back for warranty work, let alone, an aftermarket install.

Getting very frustrated with the dealer.

[Cinmeredith]

We got lucky I guess. We are providing the lift kit and they are doing the work. The quote was around $350 .

[Steamy1]

Great write-up!

I installed the lift kit on our 19' Bambi, but do not really want to tackle the 23FB dual axle. I think I'm am going to have the guy in Oregon do it.

I think Airstream changed the axle from a #10 (3000 lb.) to a #11 (3,500lb.) on the 23', so you should double check your axle if you have an older 23'. If you have #10 axles, you will need Dexter Lift Kit K71-707-02.

Like Troutboy, I could not get the Airstream service in Denver (Windxxx) to even return a phone call. I purchased the Bambi from them, and after that experience, went to Boise and purchased the 23FB from Airstream Adventures Northwest.

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Boxite, that is the proper installation method as prescribed by Dexter in written documentation. They also prescribe torque requirement in range of 140-150. I did check torque after both sides of axel were installed and there wasn't a difference, at Lear using the 250 pound torque wrench I used.

I don't think the frame twisted at all, but I am not an expert. I followed the written instructions to a tee. You can find them on the Dexter website.

No, Troutboy.... reading your own posting in "Step 4", you did NOT follow Dexter's instructions...and that is the point I was making. Dexter's instructions in their own "Step 2" have you loosen only, not remove, the bolts at one end ...THEN move to the other end.
In that fashion you do not stress the axle fittings or the trailer frame.
However, in the description you posted you did not do that... you skipped the instruction to "loosen" one end before approaching the other in step 2 as Dexter recommends. (Your post: Step 4...., place a jack stand on the axel to have a controlled lower, then remove the bolts from the street side axel (only one, I did the rear first). Lower the axel 3 inches and place the lift spacer. ...) Although you stated to "follow Dexter's instructions"... you skipped part of them.
If you followed your posted method, only dropping one end and completing the installation at that end before you approached the other end, ...you placed your axle and frame under unnecessary duress. It may not be great, ... but it did occur.

I'm not saying your actions did permanent damage. I cannot say that long-distance on the I-net. But your technique, if followed as you posted, disregarded Dexter's methods and likely placed unnecessary stress and improper torque on your bolts and frame. For you to then go back and "check" your torque and find no change takes place if you re-torque ..and declare therefor that your technique made no error... disregards the fact that torqued fasteners require loosening and retightening to achieve proper torque. Merely placing a torque wrench on an already torqued bolt would require greater torque-than-specified to dislodge the tight fastener, and would likely exceed the intended torque. (This is due to the friction necessary to break-free from torque, even an under-torque.)

Dexter's instructions, for convenience: http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defau....pdf?sfvrsn=10

[Troutboy]

Boxite.

As always, these forums are not specific how to's. I did follow the directions by Dexter and loosened the bolts. I did say above that I loosened all the bolts on all axels, and then did the install.

I also mentioned that one should follow the directions and default to those.

Sorry for the incomplete or confusing instructions above. I was just describing my experience and did not intend this to be a step by step instructional. As with any post YMMV.

I will say again, I did it as Dexter instructed. I only lowered the one side after the other side was loosened. Thanks for clarifying for others.

[Troutboy]

Boxite.

As always, these forums are not specific how to's. I did follow the directions by Dexter and loosened the bolts. I did say above that I loosened all the bolts on all axels, and then did the install.

I also mentioned that one should follow the directions and default to those.

Sorry for the incomplete or confusing instructions above. I was just describing my experience and did not intend this to be a step by step instructional. As with any post YMMV.

I will say again, I did it as Dexter instructed. I only lowered the one side after the other side was loosened. Thanks for clarifying for others.

[RamblinManGa]

Hi from AZ. . . I was considering doing this on my '16 Pendleton, but was told by someone at the Mothership service center it would void my warranty. period. Maybe after the warranty is up, I'll re-visit idea. . . regards, Craig

[Steamy1]

Originally Posted by RamblinManGa

Hi from AZ. . . I was considering doing this on my '16 Pendleton, but was told by someone at the Mothership service center it would void my warranty. period. Maybe after the warranty is up, I'll re-visit idea. . . regards, Craig

I looked into this with Airstream Adventures, and they checked with Airstream Corporate. their response that it would void the warranty if there was a claim on that component. It would not void the entire warranty, according to them. There is an extensive thread about lift kits on the forum.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by Boxite

No, Troutboy.... reading your own posting in "Step 4", you did NOT follow Dexter's instructions...and that is the point I was making. Dexter's instructions in their own "Step 2" have you loosen only, not remove, the bolts at one end ...THEN move to the other end.
In that fashion you do not stress the axle fittings or the trailer frame.
However, in the description you posted you did not do that... you skipped the instruction to "loosen" one end before approaching the other in step 2 as Dexter recommends. (Your post: Step 4...., place a jack stand on the axel to have a controlled lower, then remove the bolts from the street side axel (only one, I did the rear first). Lower the axel 3 inches and place the lift spacer. ...) Although you stated to "follow Dexter's instructions"... you skipped part of them.
If you followed your posted method, only dropping one end and completing the installation at that end before you approached the other end, ...you placed your axle and frame under unnecessary duress. It may not be great, ... but it did occur.

I'm not saying your actions did permanent damage. I cannot say that long-distance on the I-net. But your technique, if followed as you posted, disregarded Dexter's methods and likely placed unnecessary stress and improper torque on your bolts and frame. For you to then go back and "check" your torque and find no change takes place if you re-torque ..and declare therefor that your technique made no error... disregards the fact that torqued fasteners require loosening and retightening to achieve proper torque. Merely placing a torque wrench on an already torqued bolt would require greater torque-than-specified to dislodge the tight fastener, and would likely exceed the intended torque. (This is due to the friction necessary to break-free from torque, even an under-torque.)

Dexter's instructions, for convenience: http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defau....pdf?sfvrsn=10

Boxite, it was late when I wrote my reply. I went back and read and if you read my instructions, Step 3 I loosened all the axel nuts and bolts in one step. Then I went through the lowering process on one side.

I also guess I should have prefaced this thread with a note stating that this was my experience of how I did this mod and not a step by step instructional. I posted it in hopes pictures or methods would potentially help others that were considering this mod.

[Boxite]

My apology, Troutboy! I either missed that comment ...or mis-interpreted it ...thinking of the wheel-lugs..??

Also, please be assured I wasn't attempting to "nit-pick" your message or technique. Having mis-interpreted your description, I was hoping to suggest your re-evaluation of the torque used.

I am not one of those guys who read everyone else's posts searching for error or fault in order to criticize their input. I truly only meant well.

I agree this is a great mod, and can only surmise Airstream is looking for low-profiles for aerodynamics over the Interstates rather than clearance for boondocking and gas-stations.

Kind regards
George

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

I posted it in hopes pictures or methods would potentially help others that were considering this mod.

It was very helpful and thank you again for the thorough report. Sorry to see that anyone thought you needed to defend it. And I love how in the end, all the effort put into challenging your method, was for naught, as your post was not thoroughly read in the first place. Glad you received an apology.

Keep up the great work.

[Troutboy]

Thanks George. Now worries. I don't ever want to give wrong advice and I was worried that I would
Lead others astray.

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by sheriff1

I did this lift on our 27FB. (RIP) Absolutely no difference in towing other than no more dragging going into gas stations etc. I'm 62 and put the kit on by myself, no real problem. No impact tool, just a long breaker bar. Just acquired a 2014 30' FC and have the kit ordered to do this one. I'll let you know in a week or so if it's as easy as I remembered...

Kit arrived from Etrailer today, they did a great job of tracking down the correct kit for the #11 axles, quick shipping and great communication. First observation was that most of the paint had fallen off of the spacers in shipping. I will buff off the rest, prime and paint them before install. Second observation, I've aged since I installed to previous kit... I've been soaking the rusty bolts with rust solve for two weeks and still had to use a breaker bar the whole way out on the first bolt, about 1/2 hour and a few blood drops around the work area. I ordered up a Milwaukee heavy duty impact gun (1100 ft lbs nut breaking capacity). That should be here next week and I'll make another run at it. Updates to come.

[Troutboy]

Good luck Sherriff1!