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Old 08-06-2016, 02:52 PM   #61
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Don't forget that these ratings are at the industry standard of 90 deg. F. As the outside ambient temperature increases, so will the load requirements for running the compressor.


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Old 08-06-2016, 03:34 PM   #62
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Also turn the eco-throttle to full throttle on the Hondas to start AC.
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:34 PM   #63
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Thank you to those that replied!
We manually turned off the water heater and put the refrigerator on gas.
We made sure everything was off, but zone 2, and it turned on for 15 secs and then turned off with error code E7 :-(
I guess back to the dealer to check out the AC. We should be able to run one of the units with 2 of the Honda 2000i's in parallel .
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:54 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by BFamily View Post
Thank you to those that replied!
We manually turned off the water heater and put the refrigerator on gas.
We made sure everything was off, but zone 2, and it turned on for 15 secs and then turned off with error code E7 :-(
I guess back to the dealer to check out the AC. We should be able to run one of the units with 2 of the Honda 2000i's in parallel .
The 2 Hondas should run either of your air conditioners.
If there are no other loads in your trailer, then there must be a problem with the parallel setup. Are both Hondas showing a red overload light?

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Old 08-07-2016, 12:45 PM   #65
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try again

turn off zone 2 and try zone one
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:51 PM   #66
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E 7 code

in another post with the same results E 7 code would not allow AC from shore power. Any way check the 120 breakers and the use or store switch should be in the use position. Lets know
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:54 PM   #67
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My apologies for digressing, but do you who use 2 2,000 w Honda generators to run your air conditioner run them in economy mode, so they speed up when under demand, or do you run them full speed all the time? I've noticed that one 2,000 w generator works well in economy mode for using the microwave, etc., but I'm not sure if that is true for two of them running the AC.


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I run them in econ mode to power the AC.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:08 PM   #68
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E7 code means the circuit board is not receiving 120V power

i hate to ask this question but here it goes. do you know if your thermostat is in sink to your ac units? If the ac units have been replaced and or your thermostat there is a mfg code to sink between the thermostat and the ac unit. just asking!
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:19 PM   #69
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I would think Econ mode would not be beneficial in trying to run an ac unit.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:32 PM   #70
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A Dometic 13,500 BTU A/C unit has a transient starting load of around 50 amps. Your 20 amp circuits and their breakers are designed to handle a transient starting load such as this, but your generators are not. ECO mode will not suit you well when operating a roof A/C

E-7, as stated above, means that you are not getting 120VAC power to your roof units. A CCC-II thermostat will not show E-7 unless it is not getting the proper signal from the upper control board where the 120VAC enters the upper unit There could be several reasons for this:

• do you have 120VAC power anywhere else in the trailer when on shore power, like at the microwave?
•*have you checked the breakers by first pushing them down 'click' to re-set and then up 'click' to the ON position?
• in reference to the first point, do you have a 'generator inlet' at the front of the trailer? If so and you are not getting power to one of both A/C units, you might have a problem with your transfer switch
• if you are not skilled with using a volt meter in an open breaker box.....DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS!!!! You can remove the breaker face plate and check both incoming legs of your 50 amp service at the main tandem breaker to be certain that you are getting power into the trailer. Then check again at the individual 20 amp A/C breakers. Then again at the K-5 relay that is located on your upper control board. This will allow you to follow the path of the 120VAC from the main breaker right into the control board. You can also use a non-contact inductive circuit tester (looks like a small, fat pen and is available at the big box stores) to see of you are getting voltage at the positions described above.

AGAIN, IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR OR COMFORTABLE WITH WORKING AROUND LIVE CIRCUITS....DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS AND CALL A REPUTABLE RV TECH
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:52 AM   #71
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AC use when boondocking

Hello,
We found our problem......we think!
We took off all 4 intake vents and the black foam filters were full of dust and ????
After we took them off and vented the tops of the generators, we were able to run 1 of the AC units for 15minutes. My husband thought of this after we left the 100 Central Valley.
We could feel an immediate cooling during that time.
We should have known to check those, because our home AC unit was compromised and not cooling because of the same issues.

The only reason we ran for 15 minutes is because we tried in front of our home which is on a curve with a 15% hill
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:03 AM   #72
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OK, maybe it isn't really boondocking if you are using AC, but I didn't know how or where else to ask the question.

We live in Florida, and have done very little camping when we didn't need or at least really want to use the AC. Winter camping would be great without AC, but spots are hard to find unless you are willing to reserve 11 months in advance. As far as I can tell there are very few places we would go in the Southeast that don't at least have power.

I have a single Honda 2000i which would be useful to keep batteries charged and to run the microwave or coffee maker if we wanted to. For coffee we have a backup burr grinder and french press. For the microwave a dutch oven in the fire ring would suffice.

So my thoughts are that I probably would not get much use out of a second generator to run the AC.

Correct or not? What is your experience?

Thanks,

Al

I have two so the option always exists to use the a/c.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:16 AM   #73
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We usually found that the Fantastic Fan on high pulled enough air thru that sleep was comfortable unless the humidity was really high.

Closing windows but for the ones by the bed intensify the draw in those specific areas.

If you are going to be in elevations of any sort , humidity is usually low and nights are cool, making AC unnecessary.


Maggie

The discussion is centered on a/c. What about having the ability to run the convection microwave or new a cup of coffee with a coffee maker.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:59 AM   #74
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Well, sometimes the generators won't work, for whatever reason.

Offering tips on how to become reasonably comfortable, using just the Fantastic Fans, as sometimes that is all you have.

If your generator is working, your small appliances should run.


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Old 08-11-2016, 07:10 AM   #75
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AC use when boondocking

Your generator(s) should be producing WAY more power than is required to run the air conditioner, and WAY MORE power than is required to TRIP THE 20 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER that supplies your air conditioner.

Something is up.

Either;

A. You have a large unexplained current draw;

or;

B. Your generator(s) are not producing the power they should.

Something is not as it should be.


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Thank you to those that replied!
We manually turned off the water heater and put the refrigerator on gas.
We made sure everything was off, but zone 2, and it turned on for 15 secs and then turned off with error code E7 :-(
I guess back to the dealer to check out the AC. We should be able to run one of the units with 2 of the Honda 2000i's in parallel .




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