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Old 09-12-2011, 07:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Ok guys I will use the Vulkem.

Thanks

Perry
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:27 PM   #22
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Furthermore, Vulkem is running a close second, to duct tape.

Andy
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:33 PM   #23
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Well I just want to do it right. Trying to find marine plywood at a decent price. I have had quotes of $40-$90 for a 1/2" 4x8 sheet.

Perry
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:54 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by perryg114
Well I just want to do it right.

Perry
If you haven't already, you might want to read the thread for nylaboard. Pay particular attention to posts by Boatdoc that detail his critique of nylaboard (expansion at extreme temp ranges) and his alternate method of using sign board (aluminum clad ply) for full floor replacement. Early on (2008) the were several that indicated they were doing full subfloor replacement with nylaboard, but I haven't found the threads indicating how they've performed several years later.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:20 PM   #25
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They all say "General Purpose Textured Polyurethane Sealant" on the tube.
I believe that the key is polyurethane. That is the base most of the construction adhesives that I see at Lowes. Marine sealants as well. It seems to me that the polyurethane makes it an adhesive + sealant.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:45 PM   #26
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I think I am going with standard marine plywood. The problem was the rear seal in the bumper area going bad. It the floor had been something that would not rot, corrosion would have eventually killed the trailer.

Perry

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If you haven't already, you might want to read the thread for nylaboard. Pay particular attention to posts by Boatdoc that detail his critique of nylaboard (expansion at extreme temp ranges) and his alternate method of using sign board (aluminum clad ply) for full floor replacement. Early on (2008) the were several that indicated they were doing full subfloor replacement with nylaboard, but I haven't found the threads indicating how they've performed several years later.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:11 PM   #27
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I think I am going with standard marine plywood. The problem was the rear seal in the bumper area going bad. It the floor had been something that would not rot, corrosion would have eventually killed the trailer.

Perry
The rear bumper area in '70s Airstreams (and likely later as well) was a giant design defect. Once that is fixed, marine ply will have adequate rot resistance.

House roofs aren't built w/ marine ply, but last for a long, long time if the water is kept off. Wood will not survive long term wetting w/ fresh water... and our trailer shells & frames won't handle salt water .

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Old 09-12-2011, 09:34 PM   #28
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Perry.

What Airstream uses is Vulkem for the large seams, and Parbond for the small seams.


Andy

Andy,

Any idea when AS stopped using Vulkem/Parbond and why?

We have a 2005, bought used about three years ago. At that time, we visited Jackson Centre and took teh factory tour. On teh tour, we asked and were told that AS would have used Sikaflex for larger joints and Acry-R for thin seams at the time our trailer was built,

As well, (as we were shown) that was what they were still using on new trailers in 2008. Not sure about 201i, although we were again in Jackson centre in Feb 2011, and Sikaflex / Acryl-R were still the products being sold in their store.

Is there much difference between these two sets of products in your view?

Is there compatibility between the two sets of products? If not, perhaps Vulkem/Parrbond should be used on older model trailers?

Based on the factory recommendation , we bought Sifaflex/Acryl-R and have been using that to maintain our trailer so far.

Appreciate any comment/ advice.

Brian M.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:43 PM   #29
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You can get a nice finish on a lap joint or around a window with Tempro 636 if you tape the edges with masking tape and leave a small gap between the tape edges right over the joint the width you need. Put down a light bead of vulkem and then with you finger smooth it going one way and then go back the other way. This removes the excess and squeezed the sealer deep in the joints. Then immediately remove the tape. The edges will "melt" down and the seam will be perfectly smooth and if you made it narrow enough, very hard do see. If you leave the masking tape on for a while before removing it will leave little ridges on the edge of your seams. Wear old clothes because you will get it on you.s
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:13 AM   #30
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Andy,

Any idea when AS stopped using Vulkem/Parbond and why?

Is there much difference between these two sets of products in your view?

Is there compatibility between the two sets of products? If not, perhaps Vulkem/Parrbond should be used on older model trailers?

Based on the factory recommendation , we bought Sifaflex/Acryl-R and have been using that to maintain our trailer so far.

Appreciate any comment/ advice.

Brian M.

I have no idea when they changed.

Those products work very well together.

Andy
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:01 AM   #31
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Well I just want to do it right. Trying to find marine plywood at a decent price. I have had quotes of $40-$90 for a 1/2" 4x8 sheet.

Perry
1/2"? are you sure about that? What year trailer are we talking about? The only trailers I have worked on with such thin plywood is a Scotty.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:55 AM   #32
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I cut a circular plug out with a hole saw and measured it with some calipers. I don't want to add any extra thickness because then it won't fit between the body and frame and I will have a step between the old and new sheets of plywood. I am sure the older shorter trailers they used thicker wood. I have thought about adding some extra supports in the middle between the beds where you walk. No use for them under where the bed will be located. I also don't plan on covering the floor under the beds. I may paint or polyurathane the floors to protect them from moisture. I don't want anything that will keep me from inspecting the floor periodically so I can tell if I have leak issues before the floor rots.

Perry
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:10 AM   #33
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68 Tradewind

I like the sound of your technique for applying Tempro 636, but I am not sure I understand it. Some photos or a video showing the application process would be helpful. Thanks.

Dan
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