Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-07-2016, 10:36 PM   #1
CabMan
 
1960 22' Flying Cloud
Sunlakes , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 24
Wall Insulation

Well I am moving right along with my 1960 Flying Cloud restore, got the wiring complete and am now ready for insulation so I can get all the skins and front and rear capsules back in place. Can't decide which route to take, Styro foam, fiberglass, spray foam any help!!!


Thanks, Cabmike
cabmike1954 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2016, 10:53 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
MarkR's Avatar
 
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom , California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
Images: 12
google:

"airforums insulation"

it has been discussed quite a bit . . . lots of theories, opinions, options, ideas . . .

(I did 2 layers of "Prodex" with an air gap between each layer and the skins . . . I'm happy, but I'm not convinced that it's the only way or the best way or . . . it's just "one of the ways)

(can we see photos?)
__________________

Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
MarkR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2016, 11:05 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
Unka Jack's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 152
Having done the Prodex route, if I had to do it again, I'd probably just use Roxul. Simply for the ease of installation. Roxul has a commercial product called Fire Batt which comes in different thicknesses so you don't have to split the batts in half.
__________________
Although it seem like I know what I'm doing, I'm just standing on the shoulders of giants who have done this before and kindly posted their journey.
Cheers,
Jack
73's VE3ZPW
Unka Jack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2016, 12:53 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
J. Morgan's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton , Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
Images: 11
Truth be told I broke the rules and squeezed 3 1/2" fiberglass batting in my walls, It has worked well for me.


Gradiens super tenui glacie.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......

J. Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2016, 04:43 AM   #5
2 Rivet Member
 
Cruiser6483's Avatar
 
1954 25' Cruiser
Bern - Thun , Berner Oberland
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
Images: 31
Blog Entries: 1
I use in my Cruiser 1954 black foam boards "X-treme insulator". The insulation value is three times higher than "normal" materials. Waterproof, needs no vapor barrier, to stick or clamped. Can be worked with bread knife! Greetings from Switzerland - Werner

http://
Cruiser6483 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2016, 10:07 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,039
I used bubble foil on the top 2/3 and then packed the void with rockwool. See the blog in the link in my signature for pictures. Rockwool was great to work with and made a nice tight assembly, so I'm happy with it.

I also added foam tape to the ribs to provide a thermal break between them and the inner skin. That made reinstalling the skins harder, but seems to have made a big difference in insulation.
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2016, 08:11 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
rugjenkins's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 812
I used spray foam.
I first used 2 component spray foam and was not real happy with the coverage nor the application.
Then I used great stuff out of the can with a triangle application nozzle. Love it! I wish I would have used it on the whole thing. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1476061856.286629.jpg
Views:	180
Size:	72.0 KB
ID:	273276Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1476061879.369985.jpg
Views:	240
Size:	77.7 KB
ID:	273277
__________________
Matt
rugjenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2016, 08:20 PM   #8
4 Rivet Member
 
ericpeltier's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior , Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
I can tell you this - if you use spray foam and EVER want to pull it apart and work on things, you'll hate your previous self. Spray foam is tenacious stuff. I have spent too many hours scraping it out of me 1973 Streamline.
__________________
1972 33' Streamline Emperor Crown Imperial
1949 30' Spartan Royal Mansion
2012 Nissan Armada
Most of China
ericpeltier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 10:00 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
Itasca , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,044
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Wide-Form Vertical Foam Nozzle <--- I seriously wish I had thought of that.

First the bad news - that stuff is flammable, most things are, just saying.

Another down side is there are no/low published R-value specifications of canned foam, the best to be hoped for it R-5 after the gas blow agent dissipates and is replaced by humid air but that is the case with ALL spray foam.

After the shell interior is inspected, odd rivets normalized and rivets/seams parged over with your choice of forever-caulk... There is still the worry of the foam bucking out shell sheet metal if it gets between it and the ribs so prep work of caulking all the gaps the foam could get leverage on to cause wrinkly shell.

Since most sun heat loading and heat loss is through the roof I'd be very tempted to use this on just an eight foot wide strip down the roof/ceiling, on my 27' that is 8'x16' for 36 cans of foam if using the 16oz size cans, at a 'sale' price that's $90. :::sigh::: yeah it's tempting.
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 11:26 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
rugjenkins's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 812
At the box store you also get a good discount for buying bulk😁more incentive for you. I prepped all my seams with gutterseal- it works great.
__________________
Matt
rugjenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 11:44 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
Images: 3
"(I did 2 layers of "Prodex" with an air gap between each layer and the skins . . . I'm happy, but I'm not convinced that it's the only way or the best way or . . . it's just "one of the ways)"

X2, noticeably cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Ran wiring between the layers. Takes a while to cut all the pieces. I'm very happy with it.
HiJoeSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 10:31 AM   #12
4 Rivet Member
 
ericpeltier's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior , Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
Has anyone used prodex between the subfloor and bellypan?
__________________
1972 33' Streamline Emperor Crown Imperial
1949 30' Spartan Royal Mansion
2012 Nissan Armada
Most of China
ericpeltier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 02:15 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,039
I did. I lightly glued it to the bottom of the new pieces of subfloor before installing them. That way it pulls away from the flooring a bit and gives me an air pocket, as well as helps insulate the floor from the frame in theory. I also packed the belly pan with rockwool below that.
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 03:26 PM   #14
1 Rivet Member
 
1958 26' Overlander
Montpelier , Vermont
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser6483 View Post
I use in my Cruiser 1954 black foam boards "X-treme insulator". The insulation value is three times higher than "normal" materials. Waterproof, needs no vapor barrier, to stick or clamped. Can be worked with bread knife! Greetings from Switzerland - Werner

http://
I haven't seen this before. Do you have any more info on the product? I'm wondering if it can even be sourced here in the states. I'm in the same boat, trying to decide how to insulate my 58 Overlander to be suitable for winter conditions in Vermont.
SteelyCal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 03:57 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
1964 22' Safari
Naples , New York
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 14
insulation spray foam

With all of the interior panels in place in my 1964 Globetrotter, I needed more insulation in the roof. Ignoring dire consequence warnings, I purchased 49 cans of great stuff for wide gaps. Then i removed all of the electric fixtures and foamed around the cavities. Then opening the upper cabinet doors, I drilled holes just big enough to accept the plastic straw and foamed the entire can into the opening. I then plugged the holes with plastic plugs from my auto store. They are inside the cabinets and not visible. Back in the rear bath, I could not hide all of the plugs, and wound up painting white plugs to match the beige paint. So far it is working well.

Larry
lletteney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2016, 10:33 AM   #16
4 Rivet Member
 
ericpeltier's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior , Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGreatleys View Post
I did. I lightly glued it to the bottom of the new pieces of subfloor before installing them. That way it pulls away from the flooring a bit and gives me an air pocket, as well as helps insulate the floor from the frame in theory. I also packed the belly pan with rockwool below that.
Veeeery interesting.....thanks for the info. I have been wondering if I'd have problems if I sandwiched the prodex between the frame and subfloor. Sounds like you have done it with success.
__________________
1972 33' Streamline Emperor Crown Imperial
1949 30' Spartan Royal Mansion
2012 Nissan Armada
Most of China
ericpeltier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2016, 10:47 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,039
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericpeltier View Post
Veeeery interesting.....thanks for the info. I have been wondering if I'd have problems if I sandwiched the prodex between the frame and subfloor. Sounds like you have done it with success.
Problems like what?
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2016, 11:11 AM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
Cruiser6483's Avatar
 
1954 25' Cruiser
Bern - Thun , Berner Oberland
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 87
Images: 31
Blog Entries: 1
SteelyCal
A similar product available in the usa is called "Armaflex"

Greetings - Werner
Cruiser6483 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2016, 01:46 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
Itasca , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,044
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
The original Airstream madness method was crushing fiberglass between floor and frame - which made walking inside nearly noiseless from hushing creaks and pops, and hushing any resonance. I wanted the same or better on my shell off project.

Using prodex would cause dimple depressions in the floor around the fasteners, maybe not immediately but the plywood would yield gradually - plus the foam would chafe, the surface texture standing tall would be erased and the fasteners become loose; this is where tightening bolts/screws would only magnify the dimples around the attachment points. It happened with the factory fiberglass to some extent but the glass strands had density that the foam lacks, the foam can/will deteriorate to just a film thickness where compression is highest around the fasteners while still holding mm's of height between them. The Prodex gasket might work if the surface area was larger than inch or two inch interfaces, foam is often used to gasket concrete foundations away from wood sills and the structure above as that is a huge interface area to spread the weight out across... and it doesn't wiggle'n jiggle nearly as much as an Airstream!

Anyhow - I used dense surplus silicone sheet, lightly sanded the frame POR-15 paint, used 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive to bond the silicone sheet to the frame, then used the 5200 above it to weld everything together as each floor panel was dropped on and screwed down. I also used the 5200 to glue the lap joints I'd cut on the floor sheets. End result is someone can dance inside the trailer and there is no guitar-body resonance or creaking/popping... AND the floor is thermally isolated from the steel frame. No wicking of water, not deterioration over time - plus the floor sheets got a full prime/paint treatment of outdoor porch paint after they were cut to fit...




__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2016, 04:05 PM   #20
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,702
Images: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR View Post
google:

"airforums insulation"

it has been discussed quite a bit . . . lots of theories, opinions, options, ideas . . .

(I did 2 layers of "Prodex" with an air gap between each layer and the skins . . . I'm happy, but I'm not convinced that it's the only way or the best way or . . . it's just "one of the ways)

(can we see photos?)
What he said. I used one layer of Prodex with an air gap against the outside skin, then a layer of pink stuff insulation between the Prodex and the inside skin. I would not do it that way if I had to do it again. It's A LOT of work. And I'm not convinced it's really the best way to do it. It works well, but there's probably a better way.

Of course, newer insulation products and methods have come along since I did mine. The Roxul gets good reviews for use in home construction and remodeling. I'm intrigued by the "Armaflex" product. Think i'll go Google that.

And this subject has been discussed many times here as MarkR suggests. You can easily spend the evening reading here.

Good luck and let us know how you did it!

Jim
__________________
Solve for X, Or is it Y?

www.nesa.org
Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Insulation- Prodex or Foam Insulation Board? Danny Z General Interior Topics 7 08-26-2015 09:21 PM
Adding wall and ceiling insulation Lumatic General Interior Topics 1 03-02-2013 03:05 PM
Wall Material & Insulation tr0y Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 0 03-20-2011 10:52 AM
Does old fiberglass insulation equal new fiberglass insulation? Petethefeet General Interior Topics 7 11-14-2010 01:16 PM
Outer Wall Insulation Cat Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 1 01-25-2005 09:26 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.