Tool Help Panel Flanger

[bikeukeguy]

I am getting set to start installing all the inner panels on my 1952 SS Clipper. Need to form quite a bit of lap joints. I see tools to do that online in the form of either pressing style, pneumatic and vice grip type, or the bar type with 2 ball bearings. Went to Eastwood and found some Vice Grip type and reviews were not that hot. I see miles of forming and would prefer becoming a happy tool user.
What do you use?

[Wingeezer]

I have one of the Eastwood vice grip flangers - bought many years ago when doing some automotive restoration work on Brit sports cars. Still have it but not used for years!

It does the job, but I don't think I would want to use it for large jobs - I just used it when making small patches to be welded in fenders & such to perform rust repairs.

As you mention though, there are available pneumatic ones that work in a similar way, I don't think they are expensive an I'd be inclined to give one of those a try.

Seems to me I have also seen one that is an attachment for a hand drill - not certain.


Brian.

[Aerowood]

Are you trying to make the seams flush?

[markdoane]

I would use the bar type. You can even make one yourself with a couple of small bearings you can pick up at Fastenal.
Practice before trying on a large panel.

[bikeukeguy]

Aerowood, first off your CW is what I strive for.
Well, it seems lap joints located over ribs, 3/4" wide, seems like a good clean solution. Butt joints are really not practical, so that leaves a formed edge lap or just laying the panels on top of each other lap strake style. The last is easiest and may be the preferred method. Lack of experience always welcomes expert advice. I am the guy fumbling through making a new Pipe Frame for my Clipper. If you have a moments join me in Vintage Kin.
Markdoane, thanks, as for little cost I am making one. Question, what gap do you use between the bearings? I am guessing that is going to be really close to the panel thickness.

[Ralph12]

On aircraft it would be called a "joggle" you might try searching that kind of tool.

[bikeukeguy]

Very familiar with the tool you mention. With the shear amount of seams, I am looking for the most efficient tool. In England there are Edge Setting Tools and some Swiss ones even manual are well over $300. I guess I find that $$ invested in tools in well worth it. But, first the research. Hence, what works?

[Aerowood]

"CW"????? I wish I had an early Curtis Wright.

[bikeukeguy]

Aero wood, oops. Major faux pas. Your name was in a thank you from PLVMB , another SS Clipper guy, Chris Hart has the awesome CW and I am in the room of embarrassment. Your name and your help pops up and thanks, especially on dissimilar metal treatment. That mentioned CW is spectacular. Still need to find a Pipe Frame guy.
Thanks for the help everyone. Off to buy some bar stock and bearings.

[65Streamer]

Probably a smart move to use a bead roller or flange. It would be nice to have a shear also, either roller or panel type. Cutting by hand usually leaves bad edges. These are available from Eastwood. The light gauge aluminum would breeze through those.

I have a pneumatic panel flanger combo with hole punch on opposite side of jaws purchases from Eastwood. It worked well for patch panel replacement on my Olds but left minor imperfections along the length of the flange at the edge of the jaws. Not a big deal as I was smoothing after welding, then applied a slim coat of bonds to cover joint. However, I don't think you'd be happy with the results on a finished panel of bare aluminum.

-Don't these usually have an overlap with a rolled edge to "disguise" any imperfections?
-Collin Hyde has 13 panel end cap kits for sale.