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Old 09-20-2004, 06:12 PM   #141
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1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island , British Columbia
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Kevin,
The photo above gives some idea of how my trailer is put together.The pieces running across the opening are frames bows.They run from the floor on one side of the trailer to the other side.In the top opening you can see one stringer.They run between the frames and on the roof there is a row of stringers on either side of the vents.When I get the other stringers I'll post a photo.The '61 had a 4' wide sheet going down the center of the ceiling,a little different from your Safari with a seam down the middle.Do you have any Olympic rivets in your roof above the sag.If you can post a photo of your ceiling that might help.
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Old 09-28-2004, 02:49 AM   #142
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Greg,

Your project looks great--I thought I had it bad trying to work between rain storms, but you're on the Wet Coast! This is slightly off-topic, but I wasn't able to e-mail you directly. I've looked all over Prince George for Vulkem and Parbond with no success, so I ordered two of each from a 'southwestern supplier'--by the time the currency exchange, shipping, brokerage and taxes were tacked on, the bill came to $130 for four tubes of caulking!!! Do you have a Vancouver-area supplier for these items?

Thanks,
Gary H.
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:07 AM   #143
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I have been getting the Vulkem from Airstreamdreams.I usually get things sent to a PO box across the border and go and pick it up to avoid brokerage fee.Do not ship UPS,they always charge a rediculous brokerage fee.Get them to ship USPS and there is no fee.I was able to get Sikaflex 221 from Acklands here in Richmond it can be used where you would use Vulkem.
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:17 PM   #144
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Just thought I would throw in an updaded photo. The weather here has improved enough to get back to work on the skin.We replaced the panel under the front Jalhousie and have started to nail the roof down.I am hoing to finish the roof soon and get started on the upper curbside panel.Just realized I will have to add some photos of the repaired frame bows.I removed three of them and ran a spiderweb of string inside the trailer to get shape.I used many large "C" clamps and blocks to reshape the bows and riveted on heavy doublers to the bows where I had to cut them.
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:15 AM   #145
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Looking good, Greg!
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Old 05-12-2005, 08:48 AM   #146
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Greg - spring has sprung - yeah! Looks really great - think I've said this before, this could end all the polishing debate - just replace the skin!

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Old 05-27-2005, 09:43 PM   #147
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Big day today weather went straight from 8 months of winter to too hot.Got side panel off and new one taped up but with a buckle in middle bottom. Will have to untape and try again tomorrow morning.
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Old 05-29-2005, 09:55 PM   #148
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Managed to get things straightened up today.I had to make some adjustments to one of the frames.Got the top row drilled and taped everything up for rain.Also got a good sunburn on back off my left hand.
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Old 05-29-2005, 11:46 PM   #149
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This looks really cool! Too bad that you will have to cut holes in it for the roof vents etc. What a clean, undisturbed, perfect shape!
Hmmm, how could one make flush mount roof vents? Does one need roof vents to begin with?
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:53 AM   #150
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Managed to get several rivets in this weekend despite the sometimes heavy rain.My wife did an great job bucking those rivets.
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:02 AM   #151
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Looking good, Greg. I should have re-skinned my roof, too. It will not polsih due to severe corrosion. Dangit.
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:05 AM   #152
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Man, Greg. It's like the old joke about the Sharpei dogs having so many wrinkles you could make an extra dog - you could've built a whole new trailer with all the panels you've replaced by now! Looks great though.

Speaking of replacing panels, here's a general question... I've noticed on the old 1950's trailers that the edges of their panels are rolled under. It gives a really nice, finished look that the 60's on through today kind of lacks. Anyone know why this practice was stopped?
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:08 AM   #153
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The almighty dollar!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bredlo
Speaking of replacing panels, here's a general question... I've noticed on the old 1950's trailers that the edges of their panels are rolled under. It gives a really nice, finished look that the 60's on through today kind of lacks. Anyone know why this practice was stopped?
I'm sure it cost 'extra' to ease the edges of every panel...once they started using compound curved, machine shaped panels...the crimped edges went away. They are beautiful though...

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Old 06-14-2005, 10:53 AM   #154
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Thanks for words of encouragement.Next time I will shell out the cash out front for a unit with a good skin.Pardon the pun.
On a technical note I finally figured out the right tool for picking up holes from inside frames.It is called an offset drill.It has seriously sped up production and improved the quality of holes drilled.
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:07 PM   #155
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Greg, looks real fine. How are you supporting the trailer. Are you using the jack to support the front or did you use something between the jack and axels. I noticed my new front panel has a few waves, I was supporting the frame about where the door is with a 4x4 under the whole thing. When I went back to the jack the ripples were obvious due to frame flex. Now I'm wondering will putting the weight in it cause similar problems. I'll be putting in the water tank and half filling it before replacing the front sheet.
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Old 06-14-2005, 03:10 PM   #156
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I have jack stands just forward of the door and the tongue jack has some load on it.There are jack stands supporting the trailer at the axle plates and some near the bumper.I leveled everything out before the floor went on and I have not moved it since.The front skin has a doubler(.040) under it behind the window and I had to support the window and front end when the lower skin was out.It will be a nervous day when all the jack stands come out.
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Old 06-14-2005, 03:39 PM   #157
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Greg176

Before you complete the shell, you need to buy some first class champagne.

Have the champagne chilled to perfection, for that "day", that you do the unveiling.

When you remove the jacks, etc, you will find that it will ever so slightly drop.

Your chassis support method far exceeds the "book" requirements.

Therefore when you pull all the supports, have the champagne ready, and congratulate yourself for a "job well done".

You used twice as many supports as we do. The additional supports you used, did not assure quality, it guaranteed it.

Now that your around the corner from completing the "easy" part, do you have the rest of your game plan locked in?

More champagne..................maybe?

Andy
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Old 06-14-2005, 05:59 PM   #158
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Thanks for words of support Andy. As for future plans I will have my work cut out for me getting the inner skin done.That needs to be mostly replaced too.Some day I can start building cabinets.Maybe after I retire.
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:15 PM   #159
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Greg176.

I would suggest that you give considerable thought to the electrical systems, both 12 VDC and 120 VAC, as well as an antenna system and/or music system. You can also give some thought to a new AC, or it's drain system, and perhaps a solar charger or two.

The perfect time for those projects is when the interior sheetmetal is off.

By the way, before you remove the interior, resupport the chassis.

Best wishes for your future projects, that seem to never end, especially if you tinker with an Airstream.

Andy
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Old 06-26-2005, 06:35 PM   #160
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1961 26' Overlander
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I started planning the electrical system this winter when it was raining too much to make any progress outdoors.I managed to make a few schematics but am held up on that project while I make up my mind where to place batteries,electrical panel,and shore power plug.I am planning the interior layout to be very close to original except with a front dinette and a shower where the rear closet was and a larger rear cabinet to fill in where the tub was.
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