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Old 10-03-2005, 06:44 PM   #221
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Where I drilled out rivets I had to use a putty knife to dig out dried up tar sealant that was used then there was just enough room to fit tip of Vulkem tube and inject sealant.
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:03 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
my plan, after chasing down all the leaks, is to put the original innter skin back on, then line that with wood.
You may want to consider putting a thin veneer on the panels wbefore you reinstall them. It would be a lot lighter than plywood and you could attach the 'wood-panel-look' at the same time with the same rivets. Simplifies the installation of wood panels in my mind...

Just my unsolicited two-cents ~

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Old 10-05-2005, 03:12 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
You may want to consider putting a thin veneer on the panels wbefore you reinstall them. It would be a lot lighter than plywood and you could attach the 'wood-panel-look' at the same time with the same rivets. Simplifies the installation of wood panels in my mind...

Just my unsolicited two-cents ~

Shari

i thought of that, but i wasn't sure about the long term effects of gluing wood to metal. i assumed they would expand and contract at different rates, which would cause separation and bubbling later on down the road (no pun intended). i've got a while to noodle around the options before i get too far into it.

jordan
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Old 10-20-2005, 06:49 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
I replace to upper panel first, to minimize scratching on the lower panel,but the lower panel could be replaced first and some plastic taped over to protect.I drilled the windows right out first when replacing the upper panel.They are held in just with the rivets around the outer edge.I made two short cuts in the bottom of the new panel where the window cutout is to start the cut for the window.This was a 16 foot long panel and it needed to have some rigidity so didn't cut till in place.
i'm at this stage now. i'm not cutting the window until the panels are in as well. i figured i'd do as you suggest, and drill a smal hole in the top corners of the window openings, to get it right. each panel goes in quicker and easier than teh one before... thank god! hopefully this weekend will be it!

jp
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Old 10-27-2005, 07:32 PM   #225
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hey greg,

did you end up fabricating any window drip moldings? just curious, as that's coming up soon on my list of to-dos.

jp
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:10 AM   #226
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No I was able to repair my old drip caps enough to pass.I am held up now by the heavy rain.Trying to get lower rub rail on in front so I can close inner skin in front and start on dinette.
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:27 PM   #227
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You can still buy those drip moldings if you need them......
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Old 11-06-2005, 05:58 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by Ken J
You can still buy those drip moldings if you need them......
where? and are they decent looking? i've seen some that look like cheaply stamped metal. i'm going to have to come up with something soon for the rear window.

jp
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Old 01-25-2006, 08:08 PM   #229
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Drip Moldings?

By drip moldings are you talking about the piece of metal over windows. See attached. If not, what is the item over the window in this picture? Were these a extra item or did they come on some trailers and not others? Are they still amiable and where can one get them?
Thanks Don
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Old 01-26-2006, 12:03 AM   #230
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I have seen those drip caps at my local RV parts place in a variety of sizes.

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Old 06-06-2006, 11:40 AM   #231
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Skin replacement

I need some help replacing a damaged section of exterior skin. I have some rib damage and don't know where to start. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 06-06-2006, 01:07 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidrylands
I need some help replacing a damaged section of exterior skin. I have some rib damage and don't know where to start. Any help would be appreciated.
Post some photo's, so that the exact damage can be seen.

What you do, and how you do it depends on what's damaged.

Andy
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Old 08-20-2006, 04:56 PM   #233
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Skin Fitting

Hey Ken

Im new here, but my real job I am a structure mechanic on aircraft. There are alot of different ways to fit the new skin, but when I fit a new skin on a aircraft I usually fit in in place, mark all the holes I can, then use the old skin as a template to pick up the ones I could'nt. I do have hole finders I use if i have to, but be careful of oil canning.Make sure your new skin is laying as perfect as you can, if you miss drill a hole, stop and countersink both sides, one being smaller on one side, and plug it with a solid countersink rivet then sand the protruding parts of the rivet flush, dont try to stretch holes, and if you blow a hole out, go to the next size rivet which would be a 5/32 or 3/16's.
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Old 12-18-2006, 04:54 PM   #234
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Ken J,

I think this might help you get the holes right. Strap Duplicator (#40) - 12" working length & More Aviation Supplies - SkyGeek.com


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Old 12-18-2006, 05:41 PM   #235
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i used something like that just recently, in fact. be sure you get the right size for your rivets. they come in a variety of sizes.

depending on which skin panel you are replacing, you might not need anything. for example, on my 62 trotter, i'm going to have to replace the 2 rear quarter skins, and all the edges except the bottom are overlapped with another skin. that has 2 advantages. firstly, you don't have to locate holes. when you slide it in under the other panels, just drill back through the rivet holes and your golden. secondly, since all the edges of the aluminum are covered with other panels, you don't need to worry about a perfectly clean edge. when i reskinned my 59, the only panels i had to shear to size were the 2 ends under the windows.

now i'm finishing up the door, and there's NO way to do a clean job here without a shear and a metal break.

post pics for sure. the more we can all see, the mor ewe can help ya... plus nobody likes to read a book with NO pics in it!

jp
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:03 PM   #236
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Can someone tell me the average distance between the inner and outer skin?
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:26 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Alan
Can someone tell me the average distance between the inner and outer skin?

For trailers made with "Z" bows and all motorhomes, the distance between the inner and outer shell is 1 3/4 inches (1.750).

Andy
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:38 PM   #238
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Thanks Andy - Inland has been a friend to the forum for a long time. I value your expertice and envey Inland's postion for the resto explosion. Just remember us little guys
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:01 PM   #239
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If you know anyone at your local airport....perferrably an A&P Mechanic (airframe & powerplant) who does sheet metal work...ask him to show you a little tool call a "hole finder" No joke...there is such a tool. It is a cheap little tool...normally homemade from two hack saw blades. He might even have one he will give you. It is a very simple tool...simple to use...and very accurate. You use this tool to locate the rivet hole....then you drill the new hole via a hole in the upper hacksaw blade. A hole finder is just as important to a sheet metal man as clecos are....can't do a good job without both these tools
Charles
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:50 PM   #240
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OK all my knowledgable breatheren , here's what I'm up against thanks to a recent wind storm. Can a handy guy do this and where do I start.
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