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10-03-2005, 05:44 PM
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#221
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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Where I drilled out rivets I had to use a putty knife to dig out dried up tar sealant that was used then there was just enough room to fit tip of Vulkem tube and inject sealant.
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10-03-2005, 06:03 PM
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#222
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
my plan, after chasing down all the leaks, is to put the original innter skin back on, then line that with wood.
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You may want to consider putting a thin veneer on the panels wbefore you reinstall them. It would be a lot lighter than plywood and you could attach the 'wood-panel-look' at the same time with the same rivets. Simplifies the installation of wood panels in my mind...
Just my unsolicited two-cents ~
Shari
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10-05-2005, 02:12 PM
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#223
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Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
You may want to consider putting a thin veneer on the panels wbefore you reinstall them. It would be a lot lighter than plywood and you could attach the 'wood-panel-look' at the same time with the same rivets. Simplifies the installation of wood panels in my mind...
Just my unsolicited two-cents ~
Shari
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i thought of that, but i wasn't sure about the long term effects of gluing wood to metal. i assumed they would expand and contract at different rates, which would cause separation and bubbling later on down the road (no pun intended). i've got a while to noodle around the options before i get too far into it.
jordan
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
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10-20-2005, 05:49 PM
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#224
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Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
I replace to upper panel first, to minimize scratching on the lower panel,but the lower panel could be replaced first and some plastic taped over to protect.I drilled the windows right out first when replacing the upper panel.They are held in just with the rivets around the outer edge.I made two short cuts in the bottom of the new panel where the window cutout is to start the cut for the window.This was a 16 foot long panel and it needed to have some rigidity so didn't cut till in place.
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i'm at this stage now. i'm not cutting the window until the panels are in as well. i figured i'd do as you suggest, and drill a smal hole in the top corners of the window openings, to get it right. each panel goes in quicker and easier than teh one before... thank god! hopefully this weekend will be it!
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
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10-27-2005, 06:32 PM
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#225
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Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
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hey greg,
did you end up fabricating any window drip moldings? just curious, as that's coming up soon on my list of to-dos.
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
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11-03-2005, 12:10 AM
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#226
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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No I was able to repair my old drip caps enough to pass.I am held up now by the heavy rain.Trying to get lower rub rail on in front so I can close inner skin in front and start on dinette.
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11-03-2005, 01:27 PM
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#227
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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You can still buy those drip moldings if you need them......
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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11-06-2005, 04:58 PM
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#228
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Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
You can still buy those drip moldings if you need them......
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where? and are they decent looking? i've seen some that look like cheaply stamped metal. i'm going to have to come up with something soon for the rear window.
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
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01-25-2006, 07:08 PM
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#229
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Rivet Master
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka
, California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
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Drip Moldings?
By drip moldings are you talking about the piece of metal over windows. See attached. If not, what is the item over the window in this picture? Were these a extra item or did they come on some trailers and not others? Are they still amiable and where can one get them?
Thanks Don
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01-25-2006, 11:03 PM
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#230
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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I have seen those drip caps at my local RV parts place in a variety of sizes.
Chris
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
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06-06-2006, 10:40 AM
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#231
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New Member
1972 29' Ambassador
Waterton
, Alberta Canada
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4
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Skin replacement
I need some help replacing a damaged section of exterior skin. I have some rib damage and don't know where to start. Any help would be appreciated.
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06-06-2006, 12:07 PM
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#232
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidrylands
I need some help replacing a damaged section of exterior skin. I have some rib damage and don't know where to start. Any help would be appreciated.
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Post some photo's, so that the exact damage can be seen.
What you do, and how you do it depends on what's damaged.
Andy
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08-20-2006, 03:56 PM
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#233
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1 Rivet Member
1986 27' Sovereign
Farmville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 11
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Skin Fitting
Hey Ken
Im new here, but my real job I am a structure mechanic on aircraft. There are alot of different ways to fit the new skin, but when I fit a new skin on a aircraft I usually fit in in place, mark all the holes I can, then use the old skin as a template to pick up the ones I could'nt. I do have hole finders I use if i have to, but be careful of oil canning.Make sure your new skin is laying as perfect as you can, if you miss drill a hole, stop and countersink both sides, one being smaller on one side, and plug it with a solid countersink rivet then sand the protruding parts of the rivet flush, dont try to stretch holes, and if you blow a hole out, go to the next size rivet which would be a 5/32 or 3/16's.
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12-18-2006, 03:54 PM
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#234
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1 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Baton Rouge
, Louisiana
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 6
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12-18-2006, 04:41 PM
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#235
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Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
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i used something like that just recently, in fact. be sure you get the right size for your rivets. they come in a variety of sizes.
depending on which skin panel you are replacing, you might not need anything. for example, on my 62 trotter, i'm going to have to replace the 2 rear quarter skins, and all the edges except the bottom are overlapped with another skin. that has 2 advantages. firstly, you don't have to locate holes. when you slide it in under the other panels, just drill back through the rivet holes and your golden. secondly, since all the edges of the aluminum are covered with other panels, you don't need to worry about a perfectly clean edge. when i reskinned my 59, the only panels i had to shear to size were the 2 ends under the windows.
now i'm finishing up the door, and there's NO way to do a clean job here without a shear and a metal break.
post pics for sure. the more we can all see, the mor ewe can help ya... plus nobody likes to read a book with NO pics in it!
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
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02-08-2007, 03:03 PM
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#236
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Rivet Master
2017 27' Flying Cloud
2016 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Altoona
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,644
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Can someone tell me the average distance between the inner and outer skin?
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02-08-2007, 03:26 PM
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#237
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Alan
Can someone tell me the average distance between the inner and outer skin?
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For trailers made with "Z" bows and all motorhomes, the distance between the inner and outer shell is 1 3/4 inches (1.750).
Andy
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02-08-2007, 04:38 PM
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#238
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Rivet Master
2017 27' Flying Cloud
2016 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Altoona
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,644
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Thanks Andy - Inland has been a friend to the forum for a long time. I value your expertice and envey Inland's postion for the resto explosion. Just remember us little guys
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03-15-2007, 05:01 PM
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#239
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DixieDove
1978 Argosy 27
1978 28' Argosy 28
Camden
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 150
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If you know anyone at your local airport....perferrably an A&P Mechanic (airframe & powerplant) who does sheet metal work...ask him to show you a little tool call a "hole finder" No joke...there is such a tool. It is a cheap little tool...normally homemade from two hack saw blades. He might even have one he will give you. It is a very simple tool...simple to use...and very accurate. You use this tool to locate the rivet hole....then you drill the new hole via a hole in the upper hacksaw blade. A hole finder is just as important to a sheet metal man as clecos are....can't do a good job without both these tools
Charles
__________________
tn2... Bad thing about doing nothing is you never know when you're done.
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04-29-2007, 01:50 PM
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#240
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Rivet Master
1976 25' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
Campton
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,113
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OK all my knowledgable breatheren , here's what I'm up against thanks to a recent wind storm. Can a handy guy do this and where do I start.
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