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Old 08-26-2005, 06:20 AM   #201
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well, i got the drill attachment you recommended and an air nibler... now all that's left is the rivet gun. that's the expensive part! thanks for the advice so far. i'm hoping to start next week.

jordan
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:52 AM   #202
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Air Rivet tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
now all that's left is the rivet gun. that's the expensive part! jordan
Not at all, about 39 dollars at Harbor freight when they go on sale. The best darn tool I have ever bought for AS repair.
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:20 PM   #203
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Did more polishing this week and reinstalled two streetside windows.The front still needs more polishing but mostly touch ups.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:19 PM   #204
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hey man, she's really looking nice! i can't wait to get new material on mine. hopefully i'll be picking up the 2024 sheets wednesday or thursday. rivets came in today! the gun, nibler and pancake drill supposedly this week as well. it'll be a busy weekend for me, if this weather holds. now for the dumb question of the day:


when i use the vulkem between the panels, do i need to take any precautions to keep the vulkem from gooping out all over the place? or does it wipe/polish right off?

more dumb questions as the weekend nears.

thx! jordan
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:58 PM   #205
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I put masking tape around the outside of the new panel to keep cleanup to a minimum.The vulkem wipes off with a rag and some Varsol.
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:47 PM   #206
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Man Greg is that ever looking great! Hard to tell where the reflection starts and the actual reflected material ends. Kinda like the horizon when it meet the ocean on some days. Is that eyebrow over the door original? I don't recall ever seeing one like it.

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Old 08-29-2005, 10:47 PM   #207
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Thanks. The eyebrow is not done yet.Was waiting till I got back to work from vacation.That's just a spare stringer taped over door to keep rain out for now.
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:40 AM   #208
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What is a pancake drill? I need something that wont scratch as the the bit goes through the back panel, it always leaves a scratch rind around the hole.

thanks
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Old 08-30-2005, 02:45 PM   #209
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See previous page for a pic of the pancake drill.Never had that problem with drills scratching.Drill #30 first then #21.
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Old 08-31-2005, 08:46 PM   #210
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Here is a good supplier for sheet metal tools.

http://yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=DisplayMain
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Old 09-25-2005, 01:59 PM   #211
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hey greg,

i'll be taking the side skins off my trailer the weekend after next. when you took off the top panels on each side, did you remove the window as well? or try to leave it attached to the trailer somehow? just want to know what to plan for. i assume i can swap out both lower panels pretty smoothy, seal and rivet them along the bottom edge, and the sides, then tackle the upper panels. i'm just not 100% certain how the upper windows attach.

thanks, as always!

jordan
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Old 09-25-2005, 04:13 PM   #212
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I replace to upper panel first, to minimize scratching on the lower panel,but the lower panel could be replaced first and some plastic taped over to protect.I drilled the windows right out first when replacing the upper panel.They are held in just with the rivets around the outer edge.I made two short cuts in the bottom of the new panel where the window cutout is to start the cut for the window.This was a 16 foot long panel and it needed to have some rigidity so didn't cut till in place.
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:36 PM   #213
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i remember noticing that on your pics with the door opening. did you cut that with a roto-zip or jig? my nibler won't get close enough to the door frame. i'll try taping the bottom. as for scratches, when i unrolled the last piece of 032 for the rear corners on mine, i heard that horrible slipping sound... and now it's got scratches! &*#%@!! oh well.. if those end caps will buff out, so will the new scratches. did you have trouble lining the door up again, once you got the side panels on?

jordan
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Old 09-25-2005, 09:12 PM   #214
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I made the door cut with the hand shears,the rotary grinder and a file.The door fit fine after the new skins.I had to line everything up and drill holes for hinges and I got it right.
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:08 AM   #215
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hey greg, did you have any leaking in your endcaps when you went through all the skin? i think we have a leak from between the seams, and was wondering the best way to repair it. i was planning on just drilling out the rivets when i get the upper panel off, revoving each panel, resealing and re-installing... but if there's an easier way, i'm all ears! i want to make sure there are NO leaks when i'm done, as i'm planning on wood interior walls. saturday is planned for the street-side, with sunday to finish it up... or start on the curb. i gotta get this thing water-tight, it's killing me!

thanks!

jordan
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:31 AM   #216
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Jordan

Are you planning on replacing the interior skin with wood or are you going to put the wood over the interior skin?

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Old 10-03-2005, 12:03 PM   #217
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I had no leaks where I had replaced the skin but did have a few where the old skin remained.At those seams I drilled out rivets and resealed.I had a tiny leak at the front end cap where the od panel meets the new at the roof.I put a bead of Vulken along the edge Saturday and it did not leak yesterday with it raining tabbies and terriers.
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:50 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Jordan

Are you planning on replacing the interior skin with wood or are you going to put the wood over the interior skin?

Ken
my plan, after chasing down all the leaks, is to put the original innter skin back on, then line that with wood. there's a great supplier of flexible plywood here in atlanta. i'm not 100% certain how i'm going to handle all of the details until i get to that point. i do NOT want to find leaks after the fact, though!



jp
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:53 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
I had no leaks where I had replaced the skin but did have a few where the old skin remained.At those seams I drilled out rivets and resealed.I had a tiny leak at the front end cap where the od panel meets the new at the roof.I put a bead of Vulken along the edge Saturday and it did not leak yesterday with it raining tabbies and terriers.
how did you seal the seams without removing the panels? i assume you just spread them ever so slightly and inject the vulkem somehow? i'm concerned with getting enough sealer at the edges, around the window in particular.

jordan
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:04 PM   #220
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Thats good because the interior aluminum skin is an important structural component of the trailer....

Airstream dreams sells a siringe (sp) for injecting Vulcem in tight seams. Also you can use Parbond or Aloca gutter seal - both products will "wick" into the seams. Around windows, I would say most of use Vulcem because the gap around the window is large - you need to scrape all the old stuff out and seal.

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