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adwriter73 · 05-01-2012, 12:45 PM

The olympic rivets on my Airstream were missing when I bought it. I had new ones put in and after miles and miles of towing, they all popped off again. Could it be the hitch set up? I use the Equal-i-zer WD hitch. Or something else?

dznf0g · 05-01-2012, 01:46 PM

Could very well be. I believe this is one of the areas specifically spelled out by Inland Andy as a stress area for a too stiffly hitched AS.
What are the rating of your Eq bars?

Inland RV Center, In · 05-01-2012, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adwriter73

The olympic rivets on my Airstream were missing when I bought it. I had new ones put in and after miles and miles of towing, they all popped off again. Could it be the hitch set up? I use the Equal-i-zer WD hitch. Or something else?

That front hold down plate is getting beaten to death.

What exact tow vehicle do you have?

What exact torsion bar rating and brand is the hitch?

Is the running gear properly balanced?

There is more to it than just replacing the rivets.

After the above questions are answered, I will share with you the easy fixes.

Andy

Gene · 05-01-2012, 02:05 PM

I blew up the photo and it appears there were more than 20 rivets in that small area behind the propane tanks. Was something attached there at some point? The rivets may have fallen out because they were installed incorrectly or had nothing to grasp.

If those are holes, a sheet of aluminum covering them and sealed well at the edges would solve the problem. It should extend from one storage door to the other.

Gene

adwriter73 · 05-01-2012, 02:25 PM

CrawfordGene, I wondered if they were simply not re-riveted properly. But the head of all of them were sheared off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

That front hold down plate is getting beaten to death.

What exact tow vehicle do you have?

I was pulling with a VW Touareg V8, but like I said, they had popped off before I was towing. Was like this when I purchased it, then I replaced them and the same thing happened.

What exact torsion bar rating and brand is the hitch?

I have the E2 Equalizer WD hitch with the 10K lb bars

Is the running gear properly balanced?

Not sure. I did have all new tires put on before this happened.

There is more to it than just replacing the rivets.

After the above questions are answered, I will share with you the easy fixes.

Andy

adwriter73 · 05-01-2012, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

That front hold down plate is getting beaten to death.

What exact tow vehicle do you have?

I was pulling with a VW Touareg V8, but like I said, they had popped off before I was towing. Was like this when I purchased it, then I replaced them and the same thing happened.

What exact torsion bar rating and brand is the hitch?

I have the E2 Equalizer WD hitch with the 10K lb bars

Is the running gear properly balanced?

Not sure. I did have all new tires put on before this happened.

There is more to it than just replacing the rivets.

After the above questions are answered, I will share with you the easy fixes.

Andy

dznf0g · 05-01-2012, 02:39 PM

My opinion is here re. the hitch:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...est-76068.html

I am a big fan of Centramatic wheel balancers. Use the search function (google) and search on the name.

Toureg has a soft enough suspension. I don't think TV is a factor here.

TG Twinkie · 05-01-2012, 03:05 PM

I think your WD bars are way to heavy.

Gene · 05-01-2012, 03:12 PM

What kind of hitch did the previous owner have? Was it the same one, or another? If another, it is likely not the Equalizer that is the problem.

There have been many threads on hitches and they feature much disagreement. The conclusion I reached is that Equalizer works fine and that even though the dealer put on heavier bars than necessary, it makes no difference. I don't have rivets popping in the front of the trailer, inside or out. Make sure the hitch is adjusted correctly. Consider Centramatics to keep the wheels balanced and provide a smoother ride.

Gene

dznf0g · 05-01-2012, 03:14 PM

Gene, don't you have a much larger frame than OP? Look at his pic...it's 4" at the largest...maybe smaller.

adwriter73 · 05-01-2012, 03:48 PM

I will check this wheel balancing thing out. I have had trouble with the larger cabinets staying fastened to the walls, but assumed I just did not secure them properly. The local Airstream shop said that it's possible the frame has come loose from the shell in this area, causing it to flex. If this is the case, what type of reinforcement could I do?

Gene · 05-01-2012, 03:56 PM

dzn',

I can't tell if ad's frame is 4" or 5" though if I had to guess, I'd say 4". Mine is 5". His trailer weight dry is between 4,780 and 4,850 and tongue wt. between 545 and 580 depending on the model. Mine is a lot more.

But, if the size of the bars doesn't make a difference, it doesn't make a difference regardless of trailer weight or frame size.

ad', the thread dzn' quoted from has much information, speculation, thoughts and more:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ort-86138.html

All those holes—maybe a bike rack was mounted there and bolted on. I am guessing you can get behind the panel to put bolts on. If so, use stainless steel nuts and bolts with rubber washers to close them up. Cheaper than a partial panel (my 1st suggestion) and a lot quicker.

Gene

Gene · 05-01-2012, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adwriter73

The local Airstream shop said that it's possible the frame has come loose from the shell in this area, causing it to flex. If this is the case, what type of reinforcement could I do?

Have they looked at it? Do you see any separation inside or out? Start searching "front end separation".

Gene

dznf0g · 05-01-2012, 04:05 PM

Gene, I think those holes are for the hold down plate that AS added to earlier models to prevent the flexing and separation due to some of the "theories" we all banter about, like spring bar stiffness, TV suspension....etc.

I do think that for a 1000EQ bar there is a huge difference between flex of an A frame between a 4" and 5" frame. I actually think, from the pic that OP has a 3" frame. I do believe he is way "over-hitched".

Gene · 05-01-2012, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Gene, I think those holes are for the hold down plate that AS added to earlier models to prevent the flexing and separation due to some of the "theories" we all banter about, like spring bar stiffness, TV suspension....etc.

That may well be the answer. I wonder why it would have been removed? Maybe there have been several owners and one didn't know what it was for and didn't like the look of it.

Gene

dznf0g · 05-01-2012, 05:54 PM

I believe it is behind the outer skin, welded to the A-frame and movement between it (thus the frame) and the skin has sheared the rivets.

Gene · 05-01-2012, 06:47 PM

More recently they put "elephant ears" on the outside, but they may have done it differently years ago.

Gene

slowmover · 05-01-2012, 06:48 PM

Do the simple stuff first (modded trailer or not prior to the current owner):

Proper tires (see latest info) inflated to sidewall maximum

Proper trailer axle alignment

Proper trailer wheel/tire balance (plus Centramatic)

Hitch rigging according to scale derived numbers

TV tire pressure according to load (from scale values)

Check for axle aging (sag) according to Andy/Inland RV website

Get the baseline correct. No point in getting sideways on fixes if the numbers have not been verified.

.

dwightdi · 05-01-2012, 07:16 PM

There is a steel plate behind the front aluminum, which carries stress from frame to aluminum body. There has been too much stress going on, which has sheared the rivets. The rough ride is most likely caused because the axles on the trailer are old and not doing their job. Check them for function per Andy's test and replace if necessary. The next most likely cause is too stiff W/D bars. 1000 lb Equalizer bars are really stiff. See if you can get more flexible bars. The wheel balance is not likely to be the cause of this kind of failure. Unbalance usually causes problems with cabinets and interior rivets.

dkottum · 05-01-2012, 08:32 PM

I have an Equal-I-zer brand hitch and the more I see this sort of thing, and an interior rivet missing inside my new trailer, the more I want to replace the hitch. Inland Andy calls the bars railroad tracks. Andrew Thomson at Can-Am cautions against its use. Virtually no flex. I don't believe this brand hitch is suitable for Airstreams.

doug k