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Old 03-29-2017, 11:30 AM   #1
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Rivet question

My 67 Overlander International is missing a few rivets from the body trim pieces. Some go through trim and skin only and some go through wheel wells as well. What rivet type, material, diameter, and length do I need to use?
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:43 PM   #2
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Most trim is attached with common "pop" rivets. You'll need to look at each situation and decide the depth and diameter of the rivet to use. If you've never used pop-rivets, you might get the home depot guy to show you. They're pretty simple actually.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:46 PM   #3
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Also, once you determine length and diameter, Chek and see if blind pop rivets are available. They are water tight through the center barrel. Still seal the perimeter.
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:03 PM   #4
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I have a rivet gun and know how to install pop rivets. Just wanted to know recommended rivet length and diameter.
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:05 PM   #5
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I wouldn't be comfortable enough with build consistency to claim any 2 units would be the same. I'd try and measures what you have.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:38 PM   #6
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Get 1/4 and 1/2. I'm sure you'll use both.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:39 PM   #7
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Just make sure they are aluminum with aluminum mandrel.
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:11 PM   #8
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I have good luck with the 5/32" diameter pop rivets. I keep three "grip ranges" in my tool box, I'll say short, medium and long. I also keep the larger 3/16" diameter pop rivets in stock too. I use these for bigger jobs like belly pan attachment.

I very seldom use the Olympic tri-fold rivets as they are very weak even though they can be shaved to look like a bucked rivet. Olympic rivets are for light duty jobs like holding the Airstream insignia on in my view. I used them for that job as they look pretty.

Bucked rivets are the strongest and seal the tightest. But alas, I haven't purchased a pneumatic riveter or bucking bar yet. Seldom to I have access to both sides of the piece I am repairing.

David
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:00 PM   #9
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Anytime you want to seal a pop-rivet, just dip it into your preferred sealant before you "pop" it and let it cure. I've used Permatex #1 gasket sealant quite successfully, as well as RTV/Silicone in the appropriate locations.
Wipe off the excess and let it cure.
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Old 05-15-2017, 10:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I have good luck with the 5/32" diameter pop rivets. I keep three "grip ranges" in my tool box, I'll say short, medium and long. I also keep the larger 3/16" diameter pop rivets in stock too. I use these for bigger jobs like belly pan attachment.

I very seldom use the Olympic tri-fold rivets as they are very weak even though they can be shaved to look like a bucked rivet. Olympic rivets are for light duty jobs like holding the Airstream insignia on in my view. I used them for that job as they look pretty.

Bucked rivets are the strongest and seal the tightest. But alas, I haven't purchased a pneumatic riveter or bucking bar yet. Seldom to I have access to both sides of the piece I am repairing.

David
So you're saying don't bother with the Olympic rivets even if it's an exterior skin repair?
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:25 AM   #11
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Olympic rivets are OK for exterior patches etc... You don't want to use them for structural repairs though . If it's structural then use bucked rivets.
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:06 PM   #12
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An Olympic tri-fold rivet is less than half as strong as a pop rivet, and pop rivets are less than half as strong as a solid bucked rivet. The long tri fold legs tend to hit other features behind the surface and get even weaker. Here is a photo of the business end of an Olympic rivet.

If you look at a rivet website, you will see where tri-fold rivets are used for assembling light duty materials, even wood and cardboard. The big spread of the tri fold legs keeps the rivet from pulling through.

One of our vintage Airstreams has some exterior skin repairs using Olympic rivets. We have seen a few of them break and fall out. But this can happen with a bucked rivet too, but less likely due to their strength.

I used Olympic rivets to "patch" a piece for the new furnace in my Trade Wind. I was not satisfied with the results.

I wish one of these rivet makers would design a strong blind aluminum "pop" rivet that the shank, or mandrel, would break above the rivet head so we then could shave it smooth like we do with the Olympic rivet. The Aircraft "Q" rivets are close. And very expensive.

David
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