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Old 06-24-2009, 10:02 PM   #21
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I like that Aricraft supply. That is a nice rivet gun for a decent price.

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Old 06-24-2009, 10:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by augier View Post
Ok so I have been looking around for the cheapest rivet gun for the solid rivets around the bottom of the exterior. Now time is getting closer and I was looking through my dads tools and he has a air hammer that has a speed adjustment on the bottom....If I get the right tip and a bucking bar localy what would be the diffrence to the really expensive rivet gun ?
I have done this. Helped a friend restore a Piper Cub using a cheap air chisel to set the rivets.

Cut the pressure down and go real slow with the air chisel. You want it to go "putt,,, putt,,, putt". 3 or 4 "putts" to set each rivet.

You will need the appropriate tip and bucking bar.
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:49 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by floridartist View Post
After reading this rivet gun forum, I think I must be the cheapest of all, but here is my question, I bought a ARROW Rivet gun at Home Depot, it no longer cuts or pops the rivets, is there an adjustment on this handgun?
The 3X Rivet guns (we got ours at Brown Tool) are for bucked rivets. It sounds like the Arrow tool you bought at Home Depot is for pulled rivets....don't know about any adjustments on the Arrow, might be time for a new one ~

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Old 07-06-2009, 01:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Ganaraska View Post
I have done this. Helped a friend restore a Piper Cub using a cheap air chisel to set the rivets.

Cut the pressure down and go real slow with the air chisel. You want it to go "putt,,, putt,,, putt". 3 or 4 "putts" to set each rivet.

You will need the appropriate tip and bucking bar.
Just where are the rivets on a cub?
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Old 07-07-2009, 08:06 PM   #25
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Just where are the rivets on a cub?
We were installing a new firewall. It may not have been a Piper Cub but it was a small high wing monoplane of some kind. This was 20 years ago.
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:40 PM   #26
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After alot of searching, here is another kit I'm thinking of getting to get me started:

www.http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=3XKT&ReturnPage=/shop/search_result.aspx?PageNo=1

Anyone here familiar with ATS rivet guns, or can recommend another starter kit?

Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:37 PM   #27
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I'll be replacing the screen door on my TT in a week or so. There are two hinges, each with six rivets: 3 bucked, and 3 pop style, as you can see in the image below:



I don't have a rivet gun or bucking bar. Will I be OK using pop rivets on all six per hinge? The three pop rivets are used because the inner three are hidden behind the aluminum door panel on the side you don't see in the image.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:43 PM   #28
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I'll be replacing the screen door on my TT in a week or so. There are two hinges, each with six rivets: 3 bucked, and 3 pop style, as you can see in the image below:



I don't have a rivet gun or bucking bar. Will I be OK using pop rivets on all six per hinge? The three pop rivets are used because the inner three are hidden behind the aluminum door panel on the side you don't see in the image.
The inside ones are bucked due to clearence. Pop rivets stick out too far. They can be used on the inside since they stick into the frame.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:53 PM   #29
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AgPnut,

I bought an ATS model 2602 (3X) and it worked fine. It's a little cheaper ($100, vs $156), but it worked fine for me.

I bought all the other pieces separately. I didn't want the 3/32 and 3/16 clecos. If you buy the cheaper kit you will save $50. Buy lots of clecos with the savings.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:58 PM   #30
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The inside ones are bucked due to clearence. Pop rivets stick out too far. They can be used on the inside since they stick into the frame.
Hoo boy, never thought of that, but you're right.

The bucked rivets are (were) flush on the inside of the door. Interference was the problem to begin with.

Looks like it's time to invest in a 3X rivet gun set, or talk the welder into dropping by with his...
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:35 PM   #31
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Anybody know anything about Cherry rivet guns? A buddy of mine has one and I will be getting it from him soon. I haven't seen it yet but I do know it is pnuematic. Not that it matters a lot as I don't even have an AS yet. But you can't have too many tools.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:28 AM   #32
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Cherry rivets are a pulled rivet, stronger than pop rivets, but similar. The original ones had a knob on the end of the stem that engaged the special rivet puller. If the Cherry rivet gun you're getting is the special one for those knobbed rivets, I'm not sure it will pull the plain stems on pop or Olympic rivets.

Good luck.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:28 AM   #33
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Looks like a useful tool.

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Old 04-10-2010, 08:43 AM   #34
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More specific lo-cost recommendation_Pleez

No experience here except a cheap pull rivet gun from H.D....

I see 3 better ones mentioned-
1. Toolsez site has many 3x, I saw a mention of a used one for ~ $70. Which model should I ask for?
2. Aircraft Tool - ATS 2692A for $106. What specifically else would I want for doing size 5/32"?
3. Harbour Freight 3/16 Air Hydraulic Riveter for $40. Cheap enough but is it too cheap too work well?

For simple repair work which would be a better choice... door A, door B or door C?

Don't have a compressor yet either. Any recommended?

Sorry for showing such inexperience, but we all have to start somewhere.....

Steve
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:57 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Sav'h Steve View Post
No experience here except a cheap pull rivet gun from H.D....

I see 3 better ones mentioned-
1. Toolsez site has many 3x, I saw a mention of a used one for ~ $70. Which model should I ask for?
2. Aircraft Tool - ATS 2692A for $106. What specifically else would I want for doing size 5/32"?
3. Harbour Freight 3/16 Air Hydraulic Riveter for $40. Cheap enough but is it too cheap too work well?

For simple repair work which would be a better choice... door A, door B or door C?

Don't have a compressor yet either. Any recommended?

Sorry for showing such inexperience, but we all have to start somewhere.....

Steve
BE CAREFUL, there are rivet guns and there are rivet guns

The first one you mentioned, from Toolsez, is used for solid rivets. You do not "pull" these. It requires and air compressor and works like an air hammer, it beats on the front side of the rivet, while someone else holds a tool called a "bucking bar" on the backside of the rivet. The bucking bar is just a small piece of steel (or tungsten or whatever hard metal you have) that acts to back the rivet as it squashes down and seals the two pieces of aluminum together. These are the rivets that Airestream used to apply your EXTERNAL panels, before they installed any of the interior, because you need access to both sides of the work. These are stronger rivets, they are the ones that are used in the aircraft industry as structural rivets. I bought my setup from Toolsez and it included a 3x rivet gun, bucking bar, and several "die" or "bits" to handle a few different sizes of solid rivets, though on an Airstream the only ones you're really going to need are 1/8 and 5/32. It cost me something like $75 including shipping, a year and a half ago.

I'm not sure what the second on you're talking about is, but from the description it also sounds like a rivet gun for solid rivets.

But the third one you mention from HF, is designed for blind rivets (which means you only have access to one side of the work) like pop rivets (the rivets that Airstream used to apply the INTERIOR panels since they can't get to the backside of the work) or Olympic rivets. The tool pulls the mandrel from the front, which either collapses the rivet on the backside, or collapses independent legs on the backside, and pulls the two (or more) sheets of work together. The air-hydraulic HF tool works just fine for this and I have one that I've used fairly extensively doing thousands of interior rivets, but if you're only going to be doing a little bit of work, then you can also buy a hand rivet pulling tool at your local hardware store, or through Vintage Trailer Supply.

Hope that helps? And don't worry about inexperience, we ALL started where you are at some point.

Good luck!
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:00 AM   #36
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Steve

When I started my project I bought a shwack of stuff from Aircraft Spruce. Nothing particularly expensive. but I still use it now in aviation school. The compressor doesn't need to be so large, the gun will use less air "running" than say a small air drill. I use a Makita which I think is about 6 CFM and it will run the gun no problem; something like a porter cable pancake compressor would be a decent choice too as they are often on sale. Remember to buy some nice drill bits too, for 5/32" rivets you require #20 bits and for 1/8" rivets a #30 bit.

Hope that helps a bit.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...n-49720-2.html
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Old 04-10-2010, 11:38 AM   #37
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Anybody know anything about Cherry rivet guns? A buddy of mine has one and I will be getting it from him soon. I haven't seen it yet but I do know it is pneumatic. Not that it matters a lot as I don't even have an AS yet. But you can't have too many tools.
The Rivet Puller you reference is call a "Cherry Max" puller. I have two of these in different sizes with the larger one capable of pulling 1/4" all steel "Maxibolts" which is a blind high shear rivet. They are designed to pull a rivet which are a blind, self plugging rivet with a locking collar to prevent the stem from vibrating out and adding to the overall shear strength of the rivet.

These rivets are not cheap, and I have never tried pulling a standard pop rivet. Cherrymax rivet stems are serrated to enable the puller's jaws to engage. More economical pullers are available as these pullers are quite expensive with the puller head sold separately.

I will have to give it a try to see this puller will pull a "pop rivet" today, as I have one here at home.

Kip
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:23 PM   #38
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Thanks guys for replying. I didn't have time to read your posts yet but will when I get back home. Just on the way to town now.

As you can tell I don't have knowledge about the different kinds and where to use what kind of rivet.

Is there a site or pdf that explains the differences?

I'll get it soon. Don't have that much of a need - just repairs 'n stuff. Don't plan on replacing any panels (I hope).'

Steve
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Old 04-10-2010, 06:59 PM   #39
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Thanks guys for replying. I didn't have time to read your posts yet but will when I get back home. Just on the way to town now.

As you can tell I don't have knowledge about the different kinds and where to use what kind of rivet.

Is there a site or pdf that explains the differences?

I'll get it soon. Don't have that much of a need - just repairs 'n stuff. Don't plan on replacing any panels (I hope).'

Steve
This site has multiple threads on it, just to a Search on rivets and rivet guns and you'll turn up tons of info.

But really, what you need to know has already been answered above. If you plan on doing any external panel replacement and you will have access to the inside (in other words, you've removed the inner skins), then you will need the 3x rivet gun and solid rivets. My setup from ToolSez has worked great for me so far. You can get the rivets from Aircraft Spruce or Airparts Inc or other places.

The interior panels are fastened with pop rivets. The hand-puller you already own will work on those, as will the air-hydraulic unit from Harbor Freight.

Please let us know if you have any other questions and good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:18 PM   #40
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I tried to pull a regular ole pop rivet (liked to never find one) and they will not pull with a Cherry Max puller.

Kip
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