PUT THE DREMEL down folks...
then think this through better....
SEACHER/steve...
the PROCESS for dealing with surface corrosion is slightly different based on the FINISH applied...
plasti-cote VERSUS clearcoat.
very different products and these distinctions are covered elsewhere...
are u SURE whats on your trailer?
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...kin-59992.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...2-a-16344.html
next issue is WHAT ez that stuff U see, got any pix? post'em...
all white crud isn't Filo' or even corrosion...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...too-45548.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/c...kin-61910.html
so be SORTA sure what you are dealing with first and use the LEAST abrasive LEAST mechanical tool first...
and that's
not tool spinning at 3-10,000 rpms with an abrasive attachment.
an often posted "factory/service center" approach posted for dealing with REAL FILO' or ALCOA clear coat is...
1. scrape OFF the raised finish with a soft plastic scraper (credit card like material)
2. clean any residual whitish powder with water/soap and a light solvent...
3. apply clear nail polish (or clear touch up auto paint) to the area...
for ABRADING/smoooooothing the exposed surface prior to the "touch up" use a common PENCIL eraser.
slightly MORE aggressive is an automotive touch up tool (with fiberglass filaments) used to SPOT abrade in tiny places...
a link to that tool as been posted elsewhere...
another MILD abrasive approach is to "hole punch" some 1000 or 2000 wet/dry paper and glue those tiny circles to the PENCIL eraser...
now u have a TINY abrasion tool, hand powered!
____________
99% of the time for 99% of the people the eraser is PLENTY of abrasion and easy to use.
____________
touch ups?
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...int-33595.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...oat-55641.html
the factory NOW sells/offers a clearcoat/touch up fiber tipped PEN for applying STUFF over nicks...
it may or may NOT be better than nail polish, generic clearcoat pens or other hardened acrylic coatings...
i do NOT apply any paint/clearcoat or other permanent coating over the removed/cleaned spots...
it LOOKz fUGLY and will just peel again (unless u are willing to wet sand the DRY touchups)
instead just apply a good wax or POLY SEALANT over these posts (i have done this for years without PROBLEMS) ....
TRUE FILO' is UNDER clearcoat, so once the coating is REMOVED and cleaned...
FILO' ain't happening in that spot again, even if the metal is BARE...
__________
there are other useful thread on these issues (also read the links inside) here....
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eam-23641.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ize-31480.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...lse-21353.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ior-24469.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...eam-40080.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...num-26573.html
including some info DIRECTLY from alcoa...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...oat-18760.html
but that advice does NOT apply to the 3-4 versions/formulas of PLASTI-K/COTE used in prior years...
and it all starts with KNOWing what's on yer traylor and what the crud ez...
99/2000 is REPORTED to be the transition time,
but given the variability in a/s production, spillover, official YEAR designations and so on...
be sure about what's on the skin first!
__________
almost anyone trying a POWER TOOL (even a tiny rotary thing) is going to OVER correct the problem...
thus creating MORE problems.
so go gently and with the LEAST abrasive approach first.
OR take the quick, simple, easy, cute and totally PERSONALIZED approach...
and apply fake bullet holes, flags, pirate heads, harley decals or other vinyl graphics over those spots!
cheers
2air'