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mysilverbullet · 04-13-2018, 08:13 AM

Hello all,
As you can see in attached photo, my grab bar handle next to door is no longer there and the resulting tears in the skin require some form of repair prior to a new handle being installed. I see a product at Vintage Trailer Supply called alumi-pro welding which is designed to repair with a torch. Has anybody actually used this and what was the results? I fear nothing but the worst and see melting burned, tarnished skin. What would you recommend I do? Thanks so much for any advice and direction here! Greg

eubank · 04-13-2018, 08:31 AM

How about a couple of nice hearts? Or stars? Or something like a kitty-cat head? Or a cut-out shape of Iowa? Or, well, whatever you want! Use your imagination, cut them out of aluminum, drill nice holes, and use some Olympic rivets to mount them. (Use some Vulkem as a sealant.)

Lynn

Farmer Dan · 04-13-2018, 10:08 AM

I like Lynn's idea. But with the original rivets so close to the areas to be patched it may be difficult. If you could remove the original rivets and match the holes with the new piece/pieces it may be workable. Maybe you can fashion a template of some sort to match / transfer the original holes to the new pieces. And as Lynn said, use Vulkem to seal the edges and rivets.

Dan

SteveSueMac · 04-13-2018, 10:11 AM

One of the most inspiring threads in the forums may be of help to you here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...hes-68104.html

eubank · 04-13-2018, 11:45 AM

When you've got a tight spot like that, try to think up a figure with some kind of point to it. Say, a line drawing of Daffy Duck looking off to the side. If you're handy, use your simple metal engraver to give it some more shaping.

https://smile.amazon.com/Engraver-El...engraving+tool

Lynn

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farmer Dan

I like Lynn's idea. But with the original rivets so close to the areas to be patched it may be difficult. If you could remove the original rivets and match the holes with the new piece/pieces it may be workable. Maybe you can fashion a template of some sort to match / transfer the original holes to the new pieces. And as Lynn said, use Vulkem to seal the edges and rivets.

Dan

featherbedder · 04-13-2018, 01:17 PM

Get piece of scrap AS clear coat aluminum, remove some rivets to and make patch for each hole to blend in, use olympic rivets, vulkem or parbond to seal. Imo would not repair any other way espec. welding of any sort, would screw up clear coat and skin.

**azflycaster** · 04-13-2018, 01:34 PM

I would get a new grab handle and attach it to two pieces of aluminum and attach these patches to the skin.

TheGreatleys · 04-13-2018, 01:49 PM

The alumipro stuff is not going to work here. I'm with everybody else, get some Allclad aluminum, make some patches, and rivet it in. Do you have tools to buck rivet? This being right between a door and a window, it might not be too big a job to get access to the inside of the wall. If not, Olympics will suffice. I'd definitely drill out the rivets in the area and replace them through the patch so that the patch can sit flush against the aluminum behind it. Definitely needs sealant behind the patch.

If you need a couple of small scraps of AllClad, I have some in my tool box if you want to pay the cost of shipping. Just pm me.

mysilverbullet · 04-13-2018, 04:00 PM

Thanks so much everybody! Great ideas, and wow what artistic imaginations!!! Still looking for a handle that'll fit there with the 10" centers already there, maybe I'll get lucky and the width will be sufficient to cover the holes..Naw, I know I was dreaming there for a second! lol Thanks again everybody and have a great weekend!

PKI · 04-13-2018, 06:11 PM

Their may be a handle with built in pads. Check your local marine supply store. Defender, West Marine ...... Good Luck.

Pat

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp...201&id=3692018

Carrol Smith has authored Prepare to Win, Drive to Win, and Tune to Win. Believe the Prepare to Win book has a section on sheet Metal repair and prep to improve reliability. Might well be worth the ~$25 as a resource for how to group rivets to minimize stress. Amazon seems to carry the series.

GMFL · 04-13-2018, 07:14 PM

I have seen some pretty cool patches. Get creative

harryk · 04-14-2018, 12:09 PM

I would use a large plate and rivet it with olympic rivets...this will enable you to use a handle of your choice with a different hole spread. It would need to be installed on the plate first and you could make appropriate clearance holes in the old skin before installing the plate with the olympic rivets.

Bubba L · 04-14-2018, 01:44 PM

Another way to consider would be first, install a piece of 2024 to hide the holes as mentioned and second, install the handle using rivnuts and 8/32 screws. I’ve installed a handle using rivnuts and appears just as strong as the aluminum it’s attached to. So, the patch would have to be well attached. Good luck, Bubba

malett · 04-14-2018, 02:24 PM

Olympic rivets are only used for one reason on airstream trailers. This being their appearance to the uninformed. They appear to be bucked rivets, but are less labor intensive to install. They are a very weak rivet. I have attached two files. One from the vintage trailer supply catalog and the other from the McMaster Carr Catalog. If you notice the shear strengths, cost and water sealing capabilities for Aluminum Domed Head Sealing Blind Rivets with steel mandrels in McMaster verus Olympic rivets. Olympic rivets may not be your best choice. McMaster Carr has a page of information concerning pop rivets. I had a skin replacement done at the AS service center and they used the dome sealing type rivets in several places ?

[URL="https://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=1cev7vaOlympic"] page3404

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...-p/vts-179.htm

With the interior skin off on my trailer I found many of the olympic rivets failed to open properly due to their closeness to vertical members which did not let one wing expand. this resulted in a weak rivet that ends up pulling at an angle instead of straight.

The choice is strength and water tightness or appearance.

Mark

Genius with learning disabilities

bibbs · 04-14-2018, 02:50 PM

I had a similar problem I made 2 large enough aluminum washers, and added a heavy gauge backing plate inside. Good quality sealant looks great like I’ve was built hat way!

JDHinMaine · 04-16-2018, 07:25 AM

You can get the stick on type reflectors in various sizes and shapes. Clean up area. Make the area flat as possible. I usually uses a better adhesive and apply them to the area. You may want to remove that one rivet. The adhesive will act as a water seal and should look like they belong there.

Stargirl · 11-21-2018, 10:51 AM

Hi all,

I've been reading through all these awesome posts about patching exterior holes and am confused on the order of sealing and riveting. Seems to me I:

1. get alclad aluminum for cutting the patches out of (6061-T6 or 2024-T3 at least .032" thick)
2. use tin snips to cut the desired shapes (stars of course!) making sure to not cut all the way until the snip ends meet to avoid curling/denting of the patch edge
3. file down the edges of the patch using...??? perhaps just a mill file? dremel?
4. slather up the area to be covered by the patch with vulkem or some polyurethane sealant
5. rivet the patch on over the sealant using Olympic rivets - or buck rivets? I have the entire thing gutted so I'm not limited to blind rivets. However, from posts I've read it seems buck rivets are necessary for structural support but perhaps not for simply covering an exterior hole (mine are all small)

Now the alternative is to seal the patch after it is riveted, and whether I would do this from the interior or exterior I don't know. Any and all input is appreciated

Thanks for the help!!

Janetsmith54 · 08-25-2019, 09:28 PM

HI, very new to airstream. Just bought 2001 Excella 30’. After repairing door latch, came off during drive home, looked up to see this tear above the door.
Any ideas on how to go about repairing this and what may have caused it ?

Aerowood · 08-26-2019, 05:21 PM

Drill a 1/4” hole at the end of the crack. Put a repair doubler over the crack with a double row of Rivets around the crack. Solid Rivets would be best. I would use .050 2024-T3 for the repair doubler.

The area around the door cutout is a week point because Airstream does not reinforce this area. This is a common crack area.

Just guessing here but it was most likely caused by to stiff of suspension on the tow vehicle, or to heavy of bars on the hitch.

**Kevin245** · 08-26-2019, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Drill a 1/4” hole at the end of the crack. Put a repair doubler over the crack with a double row of Rivets around the crack. Solid Rivets would be best. I would use .050 2024-T3 for the repair doubler.

The area around the door cutout is a week point because Airstream does not reinforce this area. This is a common crack area.

Just guessing here but it was most likely caused by to stiff of suspension on the tow vehicle, or to heavy of bars on the hitch.

Ditto