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06-25-2009, 10:59 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Opinions wanted on this dent
The aluminum has been stretched a bit with a deep groove/scratch and the dent has a crease. Is there any hope to pop this dent out from the inside? And if the answer is "no" can I get by with replacing just the top panel only? The bottom panel has a slight deformation but I think it's minor and can be pressed out.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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06-25-2009, 11:09 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange
, California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
The aluminum has been stretched a bit with a deep grove/scratch and the dent has a crease. Is there any hope to pop this dent out from the inside? And if the answer is "no" can I get by with replacing just the top panel only? The bottom panel has a slight deformation but I think it's minor and can be pressed out.
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Where is the dent? All of the front and rear end cap segments are stretch formed.
Bill
Sorry, did not see the picture the first time. But that is a stretch formed panel, I have been told that they are still available.
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental, 2014 Dodge Durango
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
https://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
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06-26-2009, 07:39 AM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy 27
1969 21' Globetrotter
1953 25' Cruiser
Front Royal
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 407
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Looks like a good spot for a bumper sticker. I talked to Airstream Service center about panels and they said about $1500 a section for new. but you could try and find a salvage unit for the panel, but will take some hunting.
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06-26-2009, 08:26 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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You might be able to push it out some, but it will not go away and I'm sure a new panel isn't cheep...
__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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06-26-2009, 09:57 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Thanks, Richard. Looks like the consensus is to replace the panel.
Alright, dumb question. I've never replaced an outside panel like this with "rounded" rivet heads. No problem drilling interior rivets with the "holes" in them. How does one go about drilling out these rounded rivet heads without the drill bit slipping and scratching or denting the skin?
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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06-26-2009, 10:12 AM
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#7
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,615
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The simple, but crude method would be to center punch each rivet and then drill.
Brad (flyfshr) removed a ton of rivets at the Restoration Rally earlier this year on one of Uwe's trailers. He was using a really neat tool that attached to the drill and kept is centered on the head.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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06-26-2009, 10:24 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Thanks, Richard. I'll ask Brad where he got this special drill attachment. I own a rivet shaver for the Olympic Rivets, so I'm good to go there.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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06-26-2009, 11:47 PM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Airstream310
Iwerne Minster
, Dorset. UK
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
Thanks, Richard. I'll ask Brad where he got this special drill attachment. I own a rivet shaver for the Olympic Rivets, so I'm good to go there.
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I want to replace the side of my 310 MH that has had a minor skirmish during the trip over here from the 'States, and it is a daunting task to say the least!
Can you post the source for this tool?
I have seen the shaver/polishing tool somewhere but it was some ago, so that would be useful too.
What is the Aluminium Spec - size(thickness) and type/size rivet used?
Sorry about all the questions but here in the UK Body repairers of this ilk are few and far between so I am going to have a go! I am looking for a source of instruction - video/paper whatever. There are a few Airstream's here with dents!
Many thanks for any help
__________________
Chuck
Dorset UK
Don't take life so seriously.... it is not permanent!
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06-27-2009, 08:19 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckles
I want to replace the side of my 310 MH that has had a minor skirmish during the trip over here from the 'States, and it is a daunting task to say the least!
Can you post the source for this tool?
I have seen the shaver/polishing tool somewhere but it was some ago, so that would be useful too.
What is the Aluminium Spec - size(thickness) and type/size rivet used?
Sorry about all the questions but here in the UK Body repairers of this ilk are few and far between so I am going to have a go! I am looking for a source of instruction - video/paper whatever. There are a few Airstream's here with dents!
Many thanks for any help
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Olympic rivet shavers are sold by a small number of Airstream parts sources.
What thickness aluminum to use depends on where it's used. Lower panels are thicker than the upper panels, generally speaking.
Olympic rivets are used fro exterior metal replacements. If however, you have the interior gutted, or want to gut it, you can use "buck" rivets. There is only one size Olympic used for Airstream metal repairs.
Using Olympic rivets requires one person to do the work. When using "buck" rivets, two people are required, one on the inside and one on the outside of the coach.
Andy
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06-27-2009, 09:31 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,527
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06-27-2009, 10:46 AM
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#12
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,702
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Mike, because of the light reflections, it hard for me to see exactly what's scratched in the lower panel, but it looks like it could not be easily pushed out. To do that would mean removing some interior. It seems easier to just replace both the upper and lower panels while you're at it. If you do it yourself, you'll save a lot of money since this is labor intensive work, and hopefully you'll remain mellow.
Gene
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06-27-2009, 11:17 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1999 27' Safari
Kent
, Ohio
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 806
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Before I replaced the panel, I would at least try to get it out.
A method I have used on old cars, is have one person outside and another inside. make sure you can easlily communicate. gently tap out the big dent, it may just pop out. then you have the crease to deal with.
This becomes a little tediouse but not unreasonabley.
The person out side needs a block of wood, the person inside needs either a wood hammer, for manipulting metal, or a flat steel one for the same. Tap the inside of the crease gently, while the outside guy has the wood pressed firmly against where you are tapping, If the crease isnt that bad. it will almost all come out.
Ideally would be to do this on a hot day in direct sunlight, so the alluminum is hot, I would not apply heat to the alluminum with a torch, When you start this process, you will get the idea and fine tune the tools and the tapping. Having wood on the out side is mandatory so you dont stretch the alluminum further.
Good Luck.
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06-27-2009, 12:37 PM
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#14
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,702
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To take out a dent you have to shrink the metal. It's done with steel all the time on cars and trucks, but requires some expertise. Apparently aluminum has such different qualities it's very difficult to do, if possible at all.
Gene
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06-28-2009, 07:39 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang
Before I replaced the panel, I would at least try to get it out.
A method I have used on old cars, is have one person outside and another inside. make sure you can easlily communicate. gently tap out the big dent, it may just pop out. then you have the crease to deal with.
This becomes a little tediouse but not unreasonabley.
The person out side needs a block of wood, the person inside needs either a wood hammer, for manipulting metal, or a flat steel one for the same. Tap the inside of the crease gently, while the outside guy has the wood pressed firmly against where you are tapping, If the crease isnt that bad. it will almost all come out.
Ideally would be to do this on a hot day in direct sunlight, so the alluminum is hot, I would not apply heat to the alluminum with a torch, When you start this process, you will get the idea and fine tune the tools and the tapping. Having wood on the out side is mandatory so you dont stretch the alluminum further.
Good Luck.
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Thanks, Mustang. Great tips. I'm a perfectionist so I think the only thing that will truly make me happy is to replace the panel. Especially with this dent being on the rounded corner. Noticed you are in Kent. Very cool, I grew up there.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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