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Old 02-24-2002, 01:19 PM   #1
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Olympic rivet removal and installation

I compiled a series of photos for removal and installation of Olympic rivets.
Please note that the rivet in question was a trouble rivet, which didn't want to expand properly. Cutting of a leg of a rivet reduces its strenght and should normally be avoided.
Since the mandrel broke inside, I didn't have to use a sharp nail punch prior to drilling.

Edited 3/9/2013:
I reposted the lost pictures of this post and you can now see them here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...tml#post711305




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Old 02-24-2002, 01:33 PM   #2
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Great information!

Thanks for making that post Peter! It sure is nice to see what you are talking about with the pictures!

I have about 300 non-Olympic rivets that I want to switch to Olympic rivets. Where did you get your equiptment?

What rivet tool did you use? Are all rivet tools created equal or are some better than others? What about the rivet shaver?
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Old 02-24-2002, 08:28 PM   #3
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You will need:
from your local hardware store,
nailpunch, a couple of 5/32 drill bits (possibly a couple of 1/8 bits as well), a simple rivet gun, sharp pliers
Andy @ www.inlandrv.com can supply you with
the rivets and the vulkem
The rivet shaver (HS310-5B) can be purchased from
Byler Rivet Supply(bylerrivet.com) (1-800-325-3147) for about $180.-

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Old 02-25-2002, 12:15 AM   #4
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Thumbs up

Thanks for the photo essay Peter, I haven't had to rivet yet but nice to know the info is here when the time comes.
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Old 04-07-2002, 11:55 PM   #5
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Rivets & Tin Cans

Peter,
I was 'browsing' trying to find the thread where someone said my moniker shouldn't refer to my Airstream as a 'Tin Can'...when I saw your picture-insructions for replacing a rivet properly. That was awesome....ab solutely incredible to keep "in case". Thank you very much.
.......Cat.
P.S. Oh, and BTW, regarding my "Tin Can" reference being "unkind to Airstreams" as someone suggested....I just got the notice (from the Forum) of the A/S Rally in the New England area...and it is sponsored by "Tin Can Tourists".

So, I think I'll keep my moniker.
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Old 10-01-2002, 10:24 AM   #6
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Lightbulb Rivet Shaving & Olympic Rivets

Regarding a rivet shaver;

Is this a special tool that is only for the Olympic Rivits? or is it a tool that has other applications? 180.00 bux seems very specialized to me.

Now what exactly is "rivet shaving"? And is it just for appearance sake or does not doing it allow water infiltraion or some such?

Lastly what is with the use of Olympic Rivets? Are there not other brands? Seems that I saw they were between 50 cents and a buck each.
Is that correct? Are they all the same size?
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Old 10-04-2002, 10:54 PM   #7
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Rivet Shaving????

It's been a long time since I posted on THIS thread...but I read the recent post with interest...since I've forgotten exactly what I asked about.

So, HEX...???
what is the "Rivet Shaver"..?
Did you ever get an answer to all your questions (above)...?

I'd like to know what the answers to your (good) questions were,,if you don't mind letting me know.

........Cat
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Old 10-04-2002, 11:10 PM   #8
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I neglected to read the entire thread before I posted that last reply....& seeing all the photos of the riveting I was faciniated! Great "Tutorial" thanx...
However, I have a question...what is the "3-leg" thing you talk about.. I don't understand what you mean by "blocked area"..

Could you talk about it for someone like me who is rivet-illiterate...thanx.......Cat
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Old 12-04-2002, 06:16 PM   #9
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Thanks Peter, that is a great tutorial for someone who has never handled rivets. To bad the shaver is so expensive. You have to admit that it does a perfect job from what I can see.

For those that are looking, the Byler Rivet web page is under reconstruction, but I am sure their toll free number still works. I am going to get some prices from them tomorrow.

Thanks all,

Jim
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Old 12-04-2002, 07:25 PM   #10
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Visual and Alternativew Place to Purchace Rivets and Shaver

Another source for the Olympic rivet shaver is AirstreamDreams. Here's the link:

www.AirstreamDreams.com/category.html

They also show a diagram of the Olympic rivet that shows better than the photos here. The post sticking out to the right on the drawing, once pulled tight, is what gets shaved off by the shaver. It rounds the finished surface to match the convexity of the head and is a very close match to the factory buck rivets. I know the price is steep, but the shaver is a highly machined tool and you can't get the same kind of finish with a Dremel or any other type of rotary tool. I've also found that its best to trim with a battery operated drill rather than a plug-in. The rpm's of the plug-in are too fast.

Get a couple of friends to go in on it with you and the price becomes affordable. Believe me, you won't be needing it all of the time.

Brad
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Old 10-05-2003, 07:13 PM   #11
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Thanks!! Great pictures and explanation. Next spring's project is to replace a butchered, water heater installation by a PO which will require new piece of skin
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:22 PM   #12
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Lightbulb

I have this idea about drilling out rivets but I don't have any to drill out at this time. I thought I would pass it along and see if anyone thinks it is a workable solution. In my carpenter days, I used a tool called a Vix bit to drill centered holes for mounting hinges. I'm thinking that the end could be modified to set over a rivet, so that you get a good hole every time. 9/64 was the largest I came up with after a quick search on the web. Just remember: free advice is worth just what you pay for it.
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Old 02-04-2004, 09:55 PM   #13
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How come this last post about the VIX-bit died without comment?

I am very interested in this and will try to find out some info.
If Shelocta (Kat&Bill) are still around please advise whether you are fspeculating that the VIX-bit would just be used to dimple the center of the old rivet or whether it somehow actually would position over and help drill out the rivet in a more plumb (straight & level) way.
The photo has a yellow streak across the business end of the VIX-bit and I can't really figure it out.

Here is a thread link with a similar tool wish as I read it:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ht=rivet+tools

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Just an aside to Kat&Bill but I don't see yall mentioned with all the motorhome get-togethers around Austin (which must be AS MH capitol of the south) (certainly of Texas).
Looks like fun those folks have. And just cause I'm curious what is the nickname Shelocta ?
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:51 PM   #14
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Hey jaco! shelocta is online at this moment -- 10:50PM CST. Hope you get an answer.
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Old 02-04-2004, 11:22 PM   #15
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Hi Jaco;
I would hope that you could modify the nose so that you would get a good fit over the rivet and drill out the rivet in one operation. Here is a link that gives a better look at the nose.
VIx-Bit

Tillie has a dent.
Had to park, it was dark.
Now I'm sad, too bad.

I may have to replace some segments in the top rear so may get first hand experience at removing rivets. We went to Florida over the Christmas break and had fuel delivery problems so I have to address that before I figure out what to do about the dent. We went to the get-together at Blanco and hope to show up at another gathering in the near future.
Bill&Kat
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Old 02-05-2004, 07:40 AM   #16
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Funny you should bring this up again... my father (an experienced machinist) is making me exactly what shelocta described: a version specifically designed to drill out Airstream rivets.

I won't have it until late spring, but when I get it the plan is to replace a couple of exterior panels with it. I will post here on the results and design of the device at that time. If it works well, I'll investigate having it reproduced by a machine shop.

-- RL
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Old 03-01-2004, 09:13 PM   #17
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Question Almost like the factory

I noticed that after the olympic rivet is installed and shaved it does look smooth and shiny like the factory rivet.

However the head diameter looks smaller than the factory rivet that was bucked.

I just got some OLY rivets from AS dreams and holding them up to the originals on my 2003 they look like the head is a slightly smaller diameter. Is this because bucking the rivets makes the heads flatten out larger than the OLY rivets.

Also are factory rivets coated with a clear coat to keep them from oxidizing? If so can an olympic rivet after its been shaved be coated with something?

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Old 03-01-2004, 10:42 PM   #18
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campcollector you raise an important and interesting question.

In Peter's photos in this very thread the new Olympic and the bucked originals sure look to be the same size. But I know photo and even in person looks can decieve.

Have you popped one yet? Do you have calipers that could measure this possibly?

Also what is the Olympic stock number of those you bought?
I've got specs on the Olympics but don't have a clue as to the specs on the original bucking rivets.

I would not care if there was a slight difference in dome diameter, but for all these months I have been led to believe they were the same . I just prefer my surprises before I order things. Especially if I was to spring for the 200 dollar shave tool. (which I won't)I'll grind it down with a Dremel stone.
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaco

I've got specs on the Olympics but don't have a clue as to the specs on the original bucking rivets.
Here are dimensions of bucked rivets.
Click on different head styles, Brazier head is shown dimensions
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:05 PM   #20
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What I have

I got the rivets from Airstream dreams.

I have not installed one yet.

The AS parts book buck rivets say they are 1/8 dia.

I imagine after I drill one out the hole will be slightly larger because of the mushrooming of the buck rivet. Maybe this is why 5/32 fits in it.
I found larger ones online but the head diameter is .46 almost a 1/2 inch. Thats too big and the grip range is different. Also my rivets are a dull aluminum color they dont' look anodized. I emailed airstream and asked what exactly they are using on current model coaches for repair work. I will post a reply. But for now here is the dimmensions diagram. The link is for other info and sizes

http://www.boltproducts.com/marson/b...bulb-tite.html
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