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Old 03-02-2004, 03:09 AM   #21
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Close enough for me.

Assuming that Mark's bucking rivet chart represents what Airstream used 40 years ago, the head diameter is the same .312, and the head height is .072 on Olympics and .062 on bucked rivet.
That is 1/100 th. of an inch. Negligible IMHO.
There might be some head squeeze during install, but on both styles therefore offsetting effect.


Annodized is supposed to be dull aluminum colored.
Mill finish is bright.

The Olympics are an alloy I believe. I wasn't aware they were annodized. Would that be an extra step/cost in manufacturing?
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:36 PM   #22
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Talking Maybe I will buck

After looking at the cost of a rivet gun 139.00, tip set 25 dollars, and bucking bar set 49.00. I am contemplating going that way since I have the interior ribs exposed. This is on the roof after all and I could get the white rivets from AS to do the job. The following is an email I got from Chris Burch at Airstream regarding oly rivets.

I asked

"Are the 5/32 Olympic shavable bulb tite rivets used for exterior panel repairs on current coaches or just old coaches?
When installed and shaved are these rivet heads slightly smaller than a bucked rivet head?
And will they oxidize and grey over time?

If there is another type of bulb tite rivet Airstream uses for exterior rivet replacement could you tell me what size it is or a part number so I can order some? "

He responded

"They are the same and we have used these for the past 30 plus years.
They will be slightly smaller, but not enough difference to really tell.
I would say over a period of time anything is possible, but we have trailers come in here that we have used these on years ago and you can't tell the difference.
Again, we use only these.
You can contact a dealer for these."
Sincerely,
Chris Burch
Service Advisor
Airstream
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Old 10-06-2005, 07:15 PM   #23
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vix bit, rivet removal tool

found a tool specifically designed to remove solid rivets at:
aircraft-tool.com.
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/se...ATEGORY=Rivets
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Old 09-06-2006, 05:09 PM   #24
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Thanks for the rivetting discussion...literally

I have never rivetted and I am about to undertake the infamous wing window replacement on my 72 Tradwind. I feel a ton better after hearing all the specs and especially the pictures. Thanks and I am using these notes as my "To do" list.
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Old 09-14-2006, 06:15 PM   #25
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I got a big dent in the upper right rear roof outer skin over the shower. I think was done by my garage roofer stepping off onto my 76 international with his # 12 boot. In my openion it can be pushed out from the inside. My question is, how to remove & reinstall interior head liner
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:24 PM   #26
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where?

Hi Peter...has your rivet picture essay been taken down?

/John
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:37 PM   #27
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Many of the older photos were lost when we converted to a new server and I haven't seen PeterH on this site for quite some time. Maybe he'll respond and reload his pictures. They were very informative and well documented.

Brad
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Old 08-09-2008, 09:36 PM   #28
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Since Peter's original pix are gone with the old server syndrome, I'll see about getting new ones posted here to show the details, in's and out's, so to speak, of Olympic rivet installation. Give me a couple of days while I find my last remaining Olympics.

Brad
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:07 PM   #29
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Ending the mystery of Olympic Rivets

Took some pix this morning. Below are a couple Olympic's next to a regular pop rivet. The one on the left has the rubber 'O' ring and the one in the center does not. It is recommended to order them without this ring as they deteriorate over time and end up leaking.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:11 PM   #30
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Apply Vulkem around the post before inserting into the hole. Turn it a half of turn to spread the vulkem around to get a good seal. Use a regular rivet gun to install the Olympic. As the stem is pulled out the front of the rivet, the three arms extend to form the bond with the interior of the item(s) being secured. This photo shows partial compression.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:13 PM   #31
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This shows the Olympic fully compressed. Notice the notch in the remaining post where the rivet is designed to break off above the rivet head. This will get trimmed and shaved later.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:18 PM   #32
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In the case where you need to apply an Olympic next to a rib or where there is an obstruction on the backside, you can cut off one of the three legs before inserting into the hole and align the removed leg where the obstruction is. This also shows the post has been cut off with a heavy duty wire cutter right down to the rivet head.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:20 PM   #33
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Next up is the rivet shaver. It is a high-priced but indispensable item if you have alot of Olympic's to install. If you only have a few Olympic's to install, either shave them down with the side of a Dremel cut-off wheel and a steady hand or borrow a shaver from a good friend.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:21 PM   #34
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Here you can clearly see the Olympic stem after installation but before being trimmed and shaved.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:24 PM   #35
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Here is the completed installation. The shaved post fills in the hole very nicely and is barely distinguishable from a buck rivet. Once polished, its next impossible to tell the difference.

Brad
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:46 PM   #36
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Thanks for the pix Fly!!! This will help when I do the needed work on the outside of GODSPEED.

Godspeed,
Trent
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:15 PM   #37
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Perfect!

Awesome, thanks for the pictures and explanation, Brad. This is just the sort of primer that n00bs like me really need.

So, I take it you use some sort of trimmer to remove the "stem" before you use the shaver to smooth it all the way down, is that correct?
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:49 PM   #38
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No special trimming tool just your typical, run-of-the-mill wire cutters. Nothing fancy, its aluminum afterall, so it cuts really easily.

Brad
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Old 08-13-2008, 03:31 PM   #39
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Thanks!

This is terrific, Brad...many thanks.

/John
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Old 03-20-2009, 07:05 PM   #40
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So who has the number to the place that makes these shavers? Where is the wholesale price?
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