New to Riveting

[KrisE MN]

I've been reading and just can't seem to get a handle on what rivets to use on different projects in order to place my first order of tools and parts.

Here are my projects.

1. Replace refrigerator vent cover on roof and think I am reading it's ok to use pop rivets but don't know what kind is best for a newbie along with what tools to use.

1 Remove and rivet sheet of new aluminum to replace one bad sheet on side of AS, which I think means removing inside skin and bracing up to put new buck rivets on.

These dang rivets come in many sizes and styles. I have a 67 GT if that matters.

Please help

I have other projects but these are the first and I think by the time I get these two down, I should be able to figure the rest out

[cwf]

Just my thought...
For exterior that "show"... Olympic rivets on exterior. Use shaver to smooth out.

If not visible, regular pop rivet... But the Olympic may be used all over.

I used aircraft grade under the belt line.

[Minno]

My 2 cents:

Any exterior rivet at or above the floor level needs to be leak-proof. That means no regular pop-rivets as they have a hole in the center of them.

We used Olympic rivets on everything exposed. Remove the rubber washer if they come with one, and use a small dab of vulkum in the rivet hole to ensure a good seal. Olymipic rivets can be used to replace entire panels and windows.

If you have access to the backside of the outer skins, you can use buck rivets, keeping in mind that requires two people.

For the trim pieces, Airstream originally installed them with regular pop-rivets. I found closed end pop-rivets that we used for all the trim. Again, I used a dab of vulkum in each hole.

The Belly pan uses regular large diameter head pop-rivets since the belly pan is far from water tight.

The Interior uses regular pop-rivets. Mostly the 1/8" diameter size, but a few are a larger diameter.

Chris

[KrisE MN]

Thank you so much! I called the airport and am going to hire their mechanic to put the one bad skin on for me. 80 an hour and they can also order the materials. I'm going to be wing man on the inside which will give me experience.
This one dang skin comes up to the door. I consulted with someone last night who's got experience and he has advised I might want to do an overlay. This way I don't take a chance of ruining my door.

They're busy for the next two weeks but I have plenty of work to do in the meantime. Thank you again for your time and expert advise.

[KrisE MN]

6'x2' area. This removes the door I assume. I've read some threads and it seems once you remove the door, you end up with a ton of headaches.

I've woken up with ideas about making a 6x2' skin patch to avoid taking the door off. Oh the horror

One person I talk to who rejuvenates says he overlays all the time. I've read how this is a no no, don't sick Inland RV on me please. It's so tempting though! I know, begging for a whoopin

I've included a picture. Do I eliminate the upper "access" door which is just a piece of SS screwed on right now or install a hinged door? Suggestions please? This is where the fridge is located.

I can also take away that little patch by the wheel well with a full replacement piece.

How successful can one be at attaching a door after skin replacement? I guess these guys at the airport can do anything for a price....

[thesignlady]

I personally think your airport guy doing the complete job correctly providing he's not newbie will have the knowledge to do it right, as when as the mechanical know how to fix it if the doors out of alignment the end. Realistically he will likely have played with more aluminium than most of us on here :-)

Get it done right the first time and you will be a happy camper

[KrisE MN]

Looking for sizing and such finally found a post that went through what to order. Thank you for your information. I think I'll get the airport to do the big sheet but still need to do the interior bath myself ...


Stephen there are different rivets used for different locations. Almost all of the interior is pop riveted with 1/8" pop rivets. They are commonly available anywhere. The belly pan is pop riveted with 3/16" pop rivets. The exterior shell is riveted with solid buck rivets which are 1/8". Vintage trailer supply sells all these sizes of rivets. I got the 1/8" and 3/16 large flange rivets from Fastenal. Pop rivets and buck rivets use different tools and methods to attach them.

[Aerowood]

Do not do an overlay. Taking the door off is not that big of a deal. You will also get a nicer install by using .040 2024-T3 instead of the original .032. If the A&P you have hired can replace the skin then they can also remove the door. What type of rivets do you plan on using? If you are using solids verses blinds then you will have to remove the interior on that side of the trailer. If you plan on using blind rivets, you supply the rivets as Olympic makes all kinds of blind rivets and your A&P might not be aware of the type used on Airstreams, because this type of blind rivet is not used on aircraft. If you use solid rivets the A&P will most likely not have the AN455 rivet sets as this type of rivets have not been used in the aviation world for decades. They will most likely have the Universal sets which are for MS20470 style heads, which are every close to the original.

Check out my thread below as I have changed a couple of skins on my GT. I am also an A&P

[KrisE MN]

I'm taking the kitchen and bath out anyway. I have a good lot of rot in the back end so I'm pretty bummed, but not surprised.

I'll then have the inside available for install of skin. I appreciate your suggestions and will be providing rivets as suggested.

I'm glad I'm getting all this out of there. I found broken sewer pipes and broken drain to tank today. Oh well, guess I'm not the lucky one LOL I don't see that many without full restoration around here anyway. I got some pictures of the rot, will upload them when I can.

[ret155]

rivots

[ret155]

whats in a rivot kit? are they all the same? did you buys yours through air stream

[Bauxter]

Vintage trailer supply has a couple nice kits, as well as various rivet styles and sizes
Rivets & Fasteners

[ret155]

thank you

[jimmbob]

Took r '76 31' LY to Michigan races. Lots of leaks. Our next project is to seal them. Trying to find a good window to aluminum sealer until I find new gaskets.

[jimmbob]

What is best way to remove rivets? Is there some kind of special tool?

[featherbedder]

Only way I no of is to drill them out, grinding heads off will damage skin.

[thesignlady]

Yes!!!... there is a special tool for removing rivets...and it is AWESOME. I can't believe I went 6 months without it. Best 40 buck I ever spent. I bought it at online at Vintage trailer supply. It can be seen in action in my leaky rivet removal/repair video in this thread below

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ml#post1628345

[jimmbob]

Just looked it up. Thanks so much!

[aholmquist]

Such great answers on this thread. I just got my AS and I have some windows to get new seals in and they are riveted in. I am wondering if there is a hand tool for the buck rivets or do you pretty much have to go with the pneumatic buck rivet tool? I'm looking for one and don't see anything online.....but maybe I am searching for the wrong thing. I don't really want to spend $300 for a rivet machine......but maybe I will need it by the end of this project? Nobody rents them in my town. Thank you.

[nrgtrakr]

I replaced a corner window recently, as well as did some minor skin repairs. Not a huge fan of bucking rivets as everywhere rivets were bucked, the metal was wavy. Huge fan of manual rivet gun rivets - Olympics for outer skin, size wise as needed for the rest.