Is there a manual tool for shaving Olympic rivet heads?

[joeyoc]

I have a 1961 Airstream that I just bought and I'm new to all this...I'm replacing my faded Airstream signs and only have 12 rivets to swap out.

Is there a manual tool for shaving Olympic rivet heads? I've seen the $250 rivet tool and I'm already spending a lot of money on other improvements.

I've read that I can cut the rivet and Dremmel it, but wondering if I can get a better shave with a manual tool.

If I understand the process correctly...

1. Drill rivet out.
2. Pop in new one.
3. Cut rivet head.
4. Shave it smooth...

Any ideas appreciated!

[blickcd]

I have snipped off the remaining stem with cutting pliers as close to the head as possible, then very carefully filed the rest of the stem down to the head with a flat file.

[InsideOut]

You can use a fine metal file then sand paper (very file grit) or an inexpensive Dremmel tool from Harbor Freight to do a decent job on a couple of rivets - but the Rivet shaver is definitely the way to go. <10 seconds per rivet vs a couple of minutes. It's also domed to replicate the shape of the rivet so instead of being "flat" it ends up slightly convex like the rivet....and they are all very consistent. It you don't want to buy one - usually "someone" will have one at a vintage rally that will let you use it for a couple of rivets.

Keep in mind. if you are restoring a vintage trailer, chances are you will have to remove/replace more than a couple of rivets. Try out the file sandpaper or Dremmel method on a "test rivet" to see if you are happy enough with the result. Olympic rivets are just aluminum, so the shank is pretty soft - easy it file. Depending on your patience level, it may work for you.

We had nearly a 1000 Olympic rivets to replace with our two trailers (not counting all the bucked rivets!) when we did our restorations - definitely worth investing in the shaver!

Shari

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by joeyoc

If I understand the process correctly...

1. Drill rivet out.
2. Pop in new one.
3. Cut rivet head.
4. Shave it smooth...

Any ideas appreciated!

I would add, regardless of how you shave the rivets - be sure to dab each one in a bit of sealant (Vulkem or equal) prior to installing them to seal the holes and discourage leaks. The rubber washers that some Olympics come with get hard & deteriorate over time.

Shari

[garry]

I replaced about 90 rivets and used the Dremmel tool.
You will have know what you are looking at and get close enough to touch them to know they were not original.

[featherbedder]

Out of doors mart rents shaver cheap.

[joeyoc]

Thanks Christopher! I've had others recommend a Dremmel took as well!

[joeyoc]

Thanks Featherbedder...I'm in California and they are East Coast. Do you know if they ship a rental? Thank you!

[joeyoc]

That's great to know Garry! Can I ask what bit you used? Want to make sure I'm using the right one...I think I'm going to go with that!

[joeyoc]

Ohh...good idea! Thank you!

[joeyoc]

Great feedback Shari...thank you so much!

Since I'm new to Airstream life, is the rivet measured by the size of the head? I'm pretty sure mine are 5/32s. 1961 Airstream (see photo in post if you're curious) Thank you.

[InsideOut]

Olympics only come in 5/32" - that's the measurement of the shank. The original bucked rivets have roughly "the same" size head (slightly different profile) but the sink is narrower ⅛", So when you drill out the old rucked rivet, you will need to enlarge the hole slightly to be able to use an Olympic rivet in the same spot.

Shari

[guskmg]

Another replacement rivet sealer is " Captian Tulley's Crack Cure." Put it around the finished rivet. If it is gone within 24 hours, do it again. Marine people swear about it and would use nothing less.
guskmg

[Tom_T]

Joey -



This is your key reply below on your decision to buy or use another method.



How many rivets do you have to do, & what's your time worth?


Just a few by hand may not be too bad, but chances are that as you go on with your project, & time goes by towing working on the rivets - that you'll have a bunch more to do.



If you figure your time & the finished job is worth getting the shaver, & if you can delay on doing the rivets - then I'd suggest that you go to the Vintage Trailer Supply website, sign up for their email alerts on their sales, & put the shaver on your wish list or whatever they call it, then get one or their Olympic rivets kit at a 10-25% discount.



They also carry flat belly pan rivets, & I have a bunch to redo on our `60 Avion's belly pans too.



Also his Vulkem or other sealant under the rivet heads is a good idea too (silicone formulated for aluminum trailers is good too).



Cheers!
Tom
///////

Originally Posted by InsideOut

You can use a fine metal file then sand paper (very file grit) or an inexpensive Dremmel tool from Harbor Freight to do a decent job on a couple of rivets - but the Rivet shaver is definitely the way to go. <10 seconds per rivet vs a couple of minutes. It's also domed to replicate the shape of the rivet so instead of being "flat" it ends up slightly convex like the rivet....and they are all very consistent. It you don't want to buy one - usually "someone" will have one at a vintage rally that will let you use it for a couple of rivets.

Keep in mind. if you are restoring a vintage trailer, chances are you will have to remove/replace more than a couple of rivets. Try out the file sandpaper or Dremmel method on a "test rivet" to see if you are happy enough with the result. Olympic rivets are just aluminum, so the shank is pretty soft - easy it file. Depending on your patience level, it may work for you.

We had nearly a 1000 Olympic rivets to replace with our two trailers (not counting all the bucked rivets!) when we did our restorations - definitely worth investing in the shaver!

Shari

[hugheym]

Hi,
I also have a '61 . It also needed a new sign. I polished the sign and then mask of the entire sign. Following this, I carefully cut away every thing except the letters. Then you can mask off the trailer and spray with new blue paint. Follow up with a few coats of clear coat and you are done. No holes to drill no need of the rivet shaver. The only problem I have seen is some of the clear coat, is flaking.

[joeyoc]

That's great input Tom. I appreciate your insights. I only have 12 rivets to replace in swapping out the two signs. I'll be sure to get on Vintage's email list. Thanks again.
Joey

[joeyoc]

Now that's getting after it Hugh! Good idea!
I already bought my signs!!
Thank you!
Joey

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by joeyoc

Now that's getting after it Hugh! Good idea!
I already bought my signs!!
Thank you!
Joey

Joey,


Sorry, I guess that I missed that you're just trying to replace or restore your big Airstream badges.



If you're just redoing the Airstream badges, then IMHO you're better off to restore the original ones in place as hugheym said, since they're easier to clean, polish & repaint, than all of the remove & replace rivet work, & the trailer is probably worth more with as much original as possible.


However, with those badges - once you've got the lettering, raised details & nearby surrounding area masked off - then you can easily use the "dry brush" technique (really it's damp brush, but not wet) with a 1/2" - 1" round oil or acrylic painting brush to just dab the blue background in (any texture left looks like the casting marks anyway).



You just want to dab off most of the wet paint from the brush, after dipping it in the paint, such that you don't have enough paint to create drips/runs. Practice on some cardboard 1st if you need to do so. We do that on car badge restorations as well.



That way you can avoid masking/drop-cloths on the entire trailer, issues with overspray in the area, etc. - since you're just painting a small area.


You can resell the reproduction or re-run badges that you have on here or at a vintage trailer rally, since most have swap meet days at them.



As for the Olympic trimmer - I predict that you'll eventually need one!



Vintage Camping Trailer Magazine has a lot of "how to's" in past issues, so well worth the subscription, as well as a listing of the Vintage Trailer Rallies & shows, restoration workshops, etc. So go online to sign up there too.



Cheers!
Tom
///////

[Allen Arin]

Shaver Tool for 5/32" Olympic Rivets 106232. This aircraft tool attaches to standard drills to shave and finish the heads on the Shaveable Aluminum Bulb-tite rivets. It features an adjustable depth stop, and a concave shaving bit to get a perfect dome shape every time.

[joeyoc]

Thanks Shari, yes, I did notice the rivets were a bit smaller holding the sign. I appreciate your help!