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05-02-2010, 09:25 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Santa Fe
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 118
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How to remove bulkhead cabinet??
RE: 2006 Safari SE, Front Bedroom
I have a dent in the center rear exterior exterior panel that I believe can be pounded out from the inside. First though, I need to take down the bulkhead cabinet. I can't even begin to see how this could be done, especially considering all the audio/visual wires running to stereo on the left side as you face the cabinets from inside the trailer. There are no obvious bolts/screws to take out. Has any reader done this? Could you send me a private message with your phone number so I could talk to you? I'm open to that because it doesn't seem like anyone could have the patience to write down all the steps needed.
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05-02-2010, 09:38 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master 

2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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It's pretty easy to unhook the stereo through the access panel inside the curbside cabinet. Good lighting and a mirror is needed. Tag everything you unhook.
I recall Airhog1 (Gene) mentioning that the curbside & roadside face pieces were held on by finishing nails. Knowing that, I looked for and found the filler covering the holes once upon a...
When you're looking inside the stereo area, I wonder if the light and mirror setup could help you see any attachments to the wall back in that corner? I'd wager on above & below in that little space. Both ends.
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05-02-2010, 09:53 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
2002 25' Safari
1977 20' Argosy 20
northern valley
, new jersey
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 532
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we have a 2002 Six Sleeper for which we had a similar question.
I spoke with Dave Schumann at AS HQ who advised me that at the factory the "roof lockers" are first attached to the interior end caps on a bench by screwing through the back side of the cap and into the wood, and then the entire interior end cap assembly is riveted into place. so the fasteners you seek are inside the wall, not where you can reach them.
a little bit of "you can't get there from here." not the answer you were looking for, I'm sure.
though, I'll bet Andy or someone else smarter than me might have a less painful solution?
best,
__________________
Joseph & Gabrielle
Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication - Leonardo da Vinci.
WBCCI 2087 - AIR 3144 - TAC-NJ2
https://defendwally.org/
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05-02-2010, 10:30 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 

2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2
... the "roof lockers" are first attached to the interior end caps on a bench by screwing through the back side of the cap and into the wood, and then the entire interior end cap assembly is riveted into place. so the fasteners you seek are inside the wall, not where you can reach them.
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End sections are assembled vertically and all outer skin is in place before the end sections are moved onto the new Airstream's floor. The complete shell is assembled on that floor before ever being mated to a frame; it has only outer skin until many steps later. The water shower test is done. Wiring, insulation & inner skin are installed next. The shell is virtually complete when the new coach is moved to the other side of the factory where the cabinets are installed.
I'm in the dark how the hanging end cabinets could be installed by fastening from the outside. Sure hope we hear more.
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05-02-2010, 10:43 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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"pounding out" the dent
I hate the sound of that. Thin aluminum stretches to easily.
While I have not done this....I did see it done. Hot glue some (several) six inch long by 1/4 wood dowels to the exterior dented surface. Then pull on the dowels...spreading the pulls out....you will be able to get alot of the dent out that way without acessing from the inside. Then remove the glued dowel and clean the surface. Who knows...you might get real lucky if the dent is shallow and no interior bracing is involved. Good luck.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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05-02-2010, 11:05 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master 

2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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05-02-2010, 04:43 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Santa Fe
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 118
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Thanks!
Thanks CanoeStream. I've been researching your ideas, particularly the "paintless dent removal" option. Tentatively, it appears that a talented dent man can do what I'd call a 98% repair, not absolutely perfect but extremely close. That will be fine for me. I'm starting to take a look at Dent Force, a Nashville, TN company whose owner travels around. We'll see. I am deeply appreciative for CanoeStream's comments as well as the other comments.
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05-02-2010, 05:15 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Santa Fe
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 118
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Hmmm, back to square one. The Dent Force guy said he couldn't do anything. I'd like to put up a photo of the damage but I can't figure out how this site even works. I don't see how you add a picture to a post.
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05-02-2010, 06:40 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Santa Fe
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 118
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Body damage
These are the dents I'm trying to figure out how to pull out, push out or somehow repair. It looks like taking out the bulkhead cabinets is "impossible", so pushing the dents out is tough. But at the moment, I can't see how to pull the dents out. The paintless dent removal sites I find all talk about having access to both sides of the metal.
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